Trying to test fuel gauge sending units
Hi, I have a fuel injected series 2 that I inherited from my parents. It has been in storage for a long time. A lot of stuff not working. I'm slowly getting it back in running condition. I've been working on the fuel system, cleaning the changeover valves, gas tanks, fuel pump etc. I figured while I have all of that apart I would test the units to see why my gauge isn't working. I read somewhere that they can be accessed behind the tail lights. I removed the tail lights and couldn't find it. Was I looking in the wrong location?
Yes. Remove the rear wheels to gain easy access to the circular panels on each side @ the rear of the wheel arches. Remove the 4 self-tapping screws. This gives you access to the sender units on each tank.
Tanks need to be empty b4 you remove the sender units, drain plugs accessible thru large holes in lower fenders/tank covers. Sender units held in place by locking rings, use a drift to release them hitting the lugs on the rings anti-clockwise (I think from memory). The circular plate of the sender unit can now be prised out with a screwdriver. Whole unit can then be wiggled out thru the appeture, after disconnecting the two wires. Rubber seals under the plate (they say) should be renewed, but if in good nick, I just clean them up & reseal with silicone sealer.
The sender units have a miserable life, prone to rust if water has gotten into the gas tank, and brand new units (not exactly cheap, but hey, they are available) are usually the only option.
Tanks need to be empty b4 you remove the sender units, drain plugs accessible thru large holes in lower fenders/tank covers. Sender units held in place by locking rings, use a drift to release them hitting the lugs on the rings anti-clockwise (I think from memory). The circular plate of the sender unit can now be prised out with a screwdriver. Whole unit can then be wiggled out thru the appeture, after disconnecting the two wires. Rubber seals under the plate (they say) should be renewed, but if in good nick, I just clean them up & reseal with silicone sealer.
The sender units have a miserable life, prone to rust if water has gotten into the gas tank, and brand new units (not exactly cheap, but hey, they are available) are usually the only option.
Last edited by redtriangle; Jul 19, 2020 at 09:50 PM.
Yes. Remove the rear wheels to gain easy access to the circular panels on each side @ the rear of the wheel arches. Remove the 4 self-tapping screws. This gives you access to the sender units on each tank.
Tanks need to be empty b4 you remove the sender units, drain plugs accessible thru large holes in lower fenders/tank covers. Sender units held in place by locking rings, use a drift to release them hitting the lugs on the rings anti-clockwise (I think from memory). The circular plate of the sender unit can now be prised out with a screwdriver. Whole unit can then be wiggled out thru the appeture, after disconnecting the two wires. Rubber seals under the plate (they say) should be renewed, but if in good nick, I just clean them up & reseal with silicone sealer.
The sender units have a miserable life, prone to rust if water has gotten into the gas tank, and brand new units (not exactly cheap, but hey, they are available) are usually the only option.
Tanks need to be empty b4 you remove the sender units, drain plugs accessible thru large holes in lower fenders/tank covers. Sender units held in place by locking rings, use a drift to release them hitting the lugs on the rings anti-clockwise (I think from memory). The circular plate of the sender unit can now be prised out with a screwdriver. Whole unit can then be wiggled out thru the appeture, after disconnecting the two wires. Rubber seals under the plate (they say) should be renewed, but if in good nick, I just clean them up & reseal with silicone sealer.
The sender units have a miserable life, prone to rust if water has gotten into the gas tank, and brand new units (not exactly cheap, but hey, they are available) are usually the only option.
So I managed to get them out and test them this evening. Miraculously both of them are working. I guess I'll have to check the connections to the gauge itself. Meanwhile I have the fuel system in the trunk completely put back together with original but clean solenoid valves, brand new fuel lines and I added online fuel filters coming from each tank.
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