V-12 distributor woes
#2
Don,
I dont have one, or it would be yours.
That is the same as all V12 engines up to late 1988, so maybe with that expanded model info you may find one.
Looks like someone tried to adjust the timing more than the limits of that thing, instead of loosening the lower screws to rotate the whole housing.
Good luck.
I dont have one, or it would be yours.
That is the same as all V12 engines up to late 1988, so maybe with that expanded model info you may find one.
Looks like someone tried to adjust the timing more than the limits of that thing, instead of loosening the lower screws to rotate the whole housing.
Good luck.
#3
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
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Too bad you are on the far side of our globe. Even with my very limited MIG "skills"',
I could tack the pin in place.
But, I'm sure a source for a minor weld is somewhere near you.
Force is good, only at times, others.......
I am making progress on reassembling the ignition on my daughter's Passat. Care with force use OK so far with one exception.
1. It has a tricky harness to coil pack connector. Ooops, busted the female part. The force thing. No harm, the replacement coil pack includes that.
2. Super extra care and caution in seating the six spark plugs. Located in deep wells.
Hemi style. Used a rubber tube and a bolt to hand start and down to seat. Only then, today, will I use the deep socket and rachet to finish the torque. Easy does it, super tight not needed.
Carl
I could tack the pin in place.
But, I'm sure a source for a minor weld is somewhere near you.
Force is good, only at times, others.......
I am making progress on reassembling the ignition on my daughter's Passat. Care with force use OK so far with one exception.
1. It has a tricky harness to coil pack connector. Ooops, busted the female part. The force thing. No harm, the replacement coil pack includes that.
2. Super extra care and caution in seating the six spark plugs. Located in deep wells.
Hemi style. Used a rubber tube and a bolt to hand start and down to seat. Only then, today, will I use the deep socket and rachet to finish the torque. Easy does it, super tight not needed.
Carl
#4
Distributor woes
Thanks for the idea, Jagcad, the pin is brass so maybe brazing is the way to go?
I was thinking the softer brass could be squished, ( I think the term is "upset") like a rivet, but I only want to do this once.
You are right about forcing things. Doing it the "easy way" sometimes takes longer and always requires more thought!
Don V
I was thinking the softer brass could be squished, ( I think the term is "upset") like a rivet, but I only want to do this once.
You are right about forcing things. Doing it the "easy way" sometimes takes longer and always requires more thought!
Don V
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Grant Francis (04-08-2017)
#5
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
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Don V.
Brass, interesting. Yes, but, maybe not. A skilled person could likely just add a touch of brass to secure the pin and not "melt" the piece. Brazing calls for melting the rod, but not the work. Merely just short of cherry red to accept the molten brass. Flux needed as a catalyst to make the bond.
On the other hand, I did pull something like that off decades ago. An early self propelled lawn mower used a machined piece of brass as a trunion for a shaft. Alas, it
wore off the top part and the shaft went adrift. With a huge mount of luck as a substitute for skill, I added enough brass to make the trunion whole. A big drill reamed it out to fit the shaft and I was back to mowing the grass.
But, In your case, I do have an idea. Brass accepts solder very well. In your case, load is not involved. Merely securing the load piece in place is the objective.
So, got to the plumber's skills in "sweating" copper pipe joints. Heat the part, apply the solder and let it flow into the joint.
Or pin it. Drill a small hole with the pin in place that intersects both. Ease in a pin that
fits snugly. Secure it by peening or better yet, old friend JB Weld.
Thanks. I got the Passat together. It fired right up. Job done. Daughter pleased. Coming with lunch in a while !!!
Next: Get the 15 gallons or so of fuel out of my Jeep's tank. No drain and refuses to accept a siphon hose. Gotta get creative
Carl
Brass, interesting. Yes, but, maybe not. A skilled person could likely just add a touch of brass to secure the pin and not "melt" the piece. Brazing calls for melting the rod, but not the work. Merely just short of cherry red to accept the molten brass. Flux needed as a catalyst to make the bond.
On the other hand, I did pull something like that off decades ago. An early self propelled lawn mower used a machined piece of brass as a trunion for a shaft. Alas, it
wore off the top part and the shaft went adrift. With a huge mount of luck as a substitute for skill, I added enough brass to make the trunion whole. A big drill reamed it out to fit the shaft and I was back to mowing the grass.
But, In your case, I do have an idea. Brass accepts solder very well. In your case, load is not involved. Merely securing the load piece in place is the objective.
So, got to the plumber's skills in "sweating" copper pipe joints. Heat the part, apply the solder and let it flow into the joint.
Or pin it. Drill a small hole with the pin in place that intersects both. Ease in a pin that
fits snugly. Secure it by peening or better yet, old friend JB Weld.
Thanks. I got the Passat together. It fired right up. Job done. Daughter pleased. Coming with lunch in a while !!!
Next: Get the 15 gallons or so of fuel out of my Jeep's tank. No drain and refuses to accept a siphon hose. Gotta get creative
Carl