XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

2h just to fit some springs!?

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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 01:28 AM
  #21  
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I myself am very cautious. I avoid doing dangerous things as I know how much energy these springs store once compressed. Especially since they are technically far too long to install normally. If the front was a McPherson strut, heck, that would be a 5 min job and wouldn't scare anyone...
 
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 03:55 AM
  #22  
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Tried and failed. The hydraulic press worked well, but the fixing of it didn't...

So back to the drawing boards.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 06:01 AM
  #23  
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Daim,

Is there room for 3 x ratchet webbing tie-downs after compressing?

Paul
 
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 06:11 AM
  #24  
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Hmm, technically yes, but thennyou can't fit them in the subframe...
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 11:08 AM
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I just did this job using 3/8 UNF(20 threads per inch I believe). Very easy on the second side. On the second side I just put the 4 threaded rods in with the catch bolts all the way down at the bottom. I then used the hydraulic jack to lower the pan after the factory bolts were removed. Once the tension was removed from the spring I pulled away the jack and removed the threaded rod. Put the new spring in place, threaded my rod in, used the jack to compress the spring up the shaft, removed one rod at a time to replace with the factory bolts and was done the second side in about 20 minutes.

Unfortunately the new springs still had the front fender 3 inches over the top of the wheel.....doing it again this weekend with one coil removed from the spring. I know cutting the coil isnt the best way to lower the car but I cant afford $ the front coils from Jaguar and I don't trust anything else at this point.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 11:15 AM
  #26  
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Yeah, I did the same way a couple of weeks ago... Didn't even take me an hour...
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Daim
Yeah, I did the same way a couple of weeks ago... Didn't even take me an hour...
So you were able to source some rod in SAE sizes?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 11:42 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Hitch

Unfortunately the new springs still had the front fender 3 inches over the top of the wheel.....doing it again this weekend with one coil removed from the spring. I know cutting the coil isnt the best way to lower the car but I cant afford $ the front coils from Jaguar and I don't trust anything else at this point.
Did you drive the car after changing the spring? And not just back and forth in the driveway? They often settle and come down quite a bit.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 12:04 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Jagboi64
So you were able to source some rod in SAE sizes?
Yes, after about 6 weeks (transit from Britain to Germany, I'm not kidding you!) they were delivered by DHL...

So I had 4 rods each 1' long and that was ideal, as I needed both ends...
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 12:08 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Daim
Yes, after about 6 weeks (transit from Britain to Germany, I'm not kidding you!) they were delivered by DHL...
I'm envisioning this yellow painted DHL canoe being paddled across the Channel. How else could it take that long?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 12:23 PM
  #31  
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Daim:


Wow, the Jag shop wants flat rate. Union contract?? Charge less, eat the difference.




So, buy a die and some smooth rod. Make up a set. Add to the tool bin.


When, I was refreshing a really old Lausen one lung four cycle tiller engine, I had no puller that fit to pull the fly wheel. So, I made one.
A bit raggedy from bolts and a large washer. Did the job, assisted by my electric impact wrench. It is on the wall alongside the pro built ones.


Carl
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 12:47 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Daim
Yeah, I did the same way a couple of weeks ago... Didn't even take me an hour...
I'm assuming the rear ones would be more of a chore?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 12:56 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Vee
I'm assuming the rear ones would be more of a chore?
I think they are easier, because they can be done off the car. You can use an external compressor too.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 01:01 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Jagboi64
I'm envisioning this yellow painted DHL canoe being paddled across the Channel. How else could it take that long?
I think they put them in a bottle somewhere in Britain, put a cork in the end and threw it into the North Sea. Somewhere where it landed, some person checked the address, said "not me" and threw it back in again...
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 01:02 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Jagboi64
I think they are easier, because they can be done off the car. You can use an external compressor too.
And you can buy them presassembled too
 
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Old Mar 14, 2017 | 12:03 PM
  #36  
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Daim,
Did you ever get your springs changed and what did you use. If I can find new springs for my 95 4.0 coupe I am going to change mine.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2017 | 12:32 PM
  #37  
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Yes, I did it with 4 rods, each 12 inches long and with a 3/4" UNF thread... All worked well. You will of course want some nuts to go with it.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2017 | 01:35 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Daim
Yes, I did it with 4 rods, each 12 inches long and with a 3/4" UNF thread..
I think you mean 3/8" not 3/4!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2017 | 02:07 PM
  #39  
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Yeah, sorry! 3/8" not 3/4"! Sorry, I'm no imperial man
 
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Old Mar 14, 2017 | 04:54 PM
  #40  
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I think you're taking a lot of risk replacing a pair of front springs using a length of threaded bar and a couple of nuts and washers. The Jaguar recommended tool is specially constructed and most Jaguar agents will have one. It is made of high strength steel and allows the spring to be compressed, the spring pan to be removed and then the spring slowly released and lowered and a new spring inserted, compressed and the spring pan put back..

Great danger awaits anybody who cobbles together a spring compression tool with unknown material. These compressed springs have a lot of energy stored that if suddenly released can cause serious injury.

If the labour rate at a Jaguar dealer is one hour per spring that is a very good rate, and worth it. Even two hours a side is good, I'd say.
 
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