OK, I was thinking "quality" in different terms.

No ethanol would be nice, I guess :-)

As far as octane, are you allowing for the different rating methods?

Cheers
DD

 

i have no qualms with ethanol! its a powerful fuel, but if your gonna add ethanol to my gas, add it to my 93 octane! not 80 octane.

 

i despise ethanol, it gels so fast compared to regular gas its not funny. I remember when the 10% made its way around when i lived in key west. What an uproar, have the jet skis and boats broken down from that crap.

it runs fine at the percentage we use in low comp cars but its really nasty stuff. You can't leave a car parked very long at all anymore.

 

hi- Ethanol fuel, its for rapid recycling vehicles!!!!!

thats why the oil companies & government companies approved it!!

simple HUH!

 

Not to rehash old debates but either there's some exaggerated urban legend goin' on or I'm *totally oblivious* to the repairs and servicing my cars require.

In my neck o' the woods 10% ethanol has been virtually standard issue for years and years and I can't think of any problem or failure attributable to it.

Along the lines of ....gasp....most horrible things you can use.......

I've used Armor All on my tires since 1977 and the rubber has never cracked. I've used countless Fram filters and nothing bad ever happened. For years I used nothing but Castrol in my Jags and the engines never got gunked up. I've never had WD40 hurt anything I used it on.

Those are just the ones I can think of off the top of my head :-)

Cheers
DD

 

well, i dont see anything wrong with any of those, but i used to work at autozone, and ive had half a dozen customers attribute total oil pressure failure to a fram filter.

and one of them was a coworker. lost oil pressure at 140mph. took apart his fram and found it had collapsed.

 

I had experience with Subaru Outback Turbo, when it kept destroying turbo chargers one after another in minutes! Only due to the internally broken oil filter. Paper in it broke apart and all microscopic metal residue was killing rebuilt turbos in 15-30 minutes.
P.S. filter was Fram....

 

if you gutted the catsyou migh not have done it right and just left a rough surface killing flow and you could have even made it way worse if its like a junk yard in there

 

 

Doug,

I live in the Northeast and we have had oxygenated fuel for close to 20 years. I have not had any issues with the ethanol at 10%. In my job as a field engineer I have run into cases where the alcohol content has been closer to 50% and of course the only issue is drivability. I have not seen major failures from them.

I have to say Fram filters have never been a problem for me either. Although it has been a long time since I used them.

Wasn't there an urban legend about Quaker State motor oil?

All the conspiracy theories surrounding ethanol, the government and the oil companies is funny. I guess the Moon landing being faked was getting boring.

 

theres no urban legend. Quaker state & pennszoil used to come from pennsylvania and had a high parafin content that made it gum up more easily. today a lot more technology goes into removing the wax from the parafin base.

now nearly every brand of oil is mixed synthetic so it really doesnt matter what you buy.

 

alrighty, im heading to the hardware store for some 1.4-20's.

 

I would like to remove those air rails on my '85 XJS due to the fact that they don't check smog after 25 years in TX anyway. I really wasn't aware that the air rails were just for that. I thought they had some control over idle properties as well, but i guess not. Is idle control strictly the domain of the AAV? I'm wondering if I could use those leftover holes for IAC. I was actually considering building 12 single port throttle bodies at some point, but that will be a time-consuming project but I would like to find the time some day ( I do have a small machine shop left over from my old business ).

 

The air injection pipes go to the exhaust ports, not to the combustion chambers or intake ports. I'm afraid they wouldn't be of any use other than for what they were intended

Cheers
DD

 

Best thing to do is to remove rails and thread air ports for set of nice bolts, with washers.

 

i'm always gettin left out!

my old 1978 Jag V12, dont have any air rails or holes at all!

European spec engine.

 

Ok, thanks for the response. I'll just thread them

 

Seems like an awful lot of hardware was employed just to service emissions during warm up phase and is shut down afterward. This will eliminate a lot of clutter in the engine bay.

 

While reading the comments regarding removing the air rails, tapping and plugging the holes, -The general gist was to remove the manifolds...however excuse my ignorance but if the lines dump into the exhaust, wouldn't any possible shards from tapping simply fall/get shot down the down-tubes?
-Would almost make me attempt it if I didn't need to strip down half the engine.
What say ye?

 

When you drill these holes out, most crap will come up, so use vacuum cleaner on the surface. When you do tapping, tap only injection tube retainers and do it on the side, then reinstall retainer and bolt new 6mm bolts in them and down the air injection port holes. You may want to use some heat resistant silicone as well.