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You can also ohm the coil. Disconnect coil. Read between the two posts ( ~ ohms = burnt out windings. 0 = fused windings. <1ohm is expected) and also measure between positive and the HT out wire socket ( 1000s of ohms expected )
You can also ohm the coil. Disconnect coil. Read between the two posts ( ~ ohms = burnt out windings. 0 = fused windings. <1ohm is expected) and also measure between positive and the HT out wire socket ( 1000s of ohms expected )
i was having troubles doing this the other day as well. It's like my multimeter ohms setting wasn't working. It just kept reading 1. Need to borrow my buddies
You can also ohm the coil. Disconnect coil. Read between the two posts ( ~ ohms = burnt out windings. 0 = fused windings. <1ohm is expected) and also measure between positive and the HT out wire socket ( 1000s of ohms expected )
got a new meter and tested the coil. I'm getting .9 ohms across the coil and about 5.7k to the center. My old coil I got .7ohms across and 4.4k to center. So the coils seem to be ok I'm just not getting anything out of them. I read a persons story about the module I bought from napa having it dead on arrival. Then testing 4 more and the same thing. That isn't very comforting. I took the black plug off the amp hooked to the pickup... I tried to test for ohms to the pickup and I only got 1. Tried jiggling the wires abut and it just stayed at 1.
got a new meter and tested the coil. I'm getting .9 ohms across the coil and about 5.7k to the center. My old coil I got .7ohms across and 4.4k to center. So the coils seem to be ok I'm just not getting anything out of them. I read a persons story about the module I bought from napa having it dead on arrival. Then testing 4 more and the same thing. That isn't very comforting. I took the black plug off the amp hooked to the pickup... I tried to test for ohms to the pickup and I only got 1. Tried jiggling the wires abut and it just stayed at 1.
take the tests both at face value. Good coil. No spark when energized.
=
Bad spark plug plug wires or plug being used for your coil test.
I am not familiar with the Lucas setup can you post pics of where you are measuring ohms to the pickup. Some connectors have recessed terminals and getting the meter probe in there properly is difficult, in this situation I insert a paper clip in the connector.
I am not familiar with the Lucas setup can you post pics of where you are measuring ohms to the pickup. Some connectors have recessed terminals and getting the meter probe in there properly is difficult, in this situation I insert a paper clip in the connector.
i aligator clipped the terminal to the multimeter and got a constant 3.4k. I went over all wiring and now I'm trying another module. After reading about modules being dead out of the box might as well try it
As long as you are measuring a genuine Jaguar coil then resistance measurements should be in line with the spec in the ROM. If it's an aftermarket coil the resistance measurements might be different even on a coil sold as compatible.
Be aware that coil resistance is an indication ONLY and not a definitive measurement unless you have the manufacturers specification for coil resistance. What effects the resistance is wire gauge and length, so 2 coils can be wound with the same number of turns one with thicker wire and both will have different resistances.
It's the turns ratio that is important, ignition coils are typically 100:1 which means 1volt (AC NOT DC) on the primary will produce 100volts on the secondary.
As dumb as it sounds I'm almost thinking the battery is crap and might not be giving enough juice to crank it. It's been drained and recharged so many times I'm thinking it might be crap. I went to start it after looking over every wire... I got nothing! I thought that's it I went back even farther and now can't even crank it. I hooked up my jumper battery just to see and it cranked again(but didn't start) my jumper was low too so I'm taking the battery in for an exchange. If it doesn't start with a new battery I'm trying a whole new amp. And if that doesn't do it, I'm taking it to a pro.
and of course now that I look at some other threads I'm almost thinking the pickup might be the issue? It's job is basically to tell the amps module to switch on and off, correct? So if it's not getting signal to the amp I'm not going to get spark out of the coil because the coils not getting the "on/off" jolt?
There are 2 types of ab14s as far as I've read. In the photo below I have the second type with the white block. would bypassing it be a good thing to try? Could the innards be fried? The only used ab14s I'm finding on eBay are the type 1... so in theory I could just add my white block to one of those? But if it's fried it would be pointless. I still have no idea if it's the issue but from the problems people all over from jags to lotus to mg...I just have a feeling it's still the amp.
Thanks for the help everyone. I'm asking a lot of questions and a lot of the time I'm almost writing thoughts to myself. Ha
the testing procedure was a bit confusing at the end. Do you just test the resistance from the ecu to neg on coil? My tach works... or worked before it quit. Course the ecu did too. Ha
Holy **** it started! It was a bad magnetic pickup. Now a little more fun... it idled nice then I twisted the throttle a bit and it hesitated a little but revved. I could tell when I let it idle down it wanted to stall so I brought it down slow. Then it idled fairly low. Then when I went to give it gas again it stalled out. I know I dinged with the idle adjust screw long ago wondering if that's my problem or now if a fpr is acting up. Oh well it started and that's a great feeling!
Ok now it starts but now I got a new issue... after it quit it didn't want to start real well so I let it sit for a bit. Went back and it started but died... let it sit some more. This time once it turned over I gave it some gas... it stayed running but it did not really want too. I had to keep my foot in it and slowly the idle started to rise to 2-3k but it wasn't rising enough for being floored. Nice bit of white/blue smoke out the back in the beginning. Fuel filter clog? Vacuum leak? Fpr? I don't have a fuel pressure tester... when I started it the first time it ran super nice and smooth and quiet until I touched the throttle. It didn't like that.
What is the idle voltage of the TPS, must be between 0.32- 0.36V?
Is the TPS giving a VERY steady OHMS rise from idle to WOT?
What is the Ignition timing set at. I would be using 10deg BTDC as a static starting point.
That AAV HOT idle adjuster should be wound ALL the way IN, then backed out 2 1/2 turns, and that will be very close to what you want. Then do not mess with that again until the engine is HOT. That screw has NOTHING to do with cold idle, that is the precut slots inside the AAV.
Are the throttle cross rods synchronised???
The list goes on, ONE item at a time.
The smoke would be normal, with all the issues you have had, that engine is going to be pissy for a long while yet.
What is the idle voltage of the TPS, must be between 0.32- 0.36V?
Is the TPS giving a VERY steady OHMS rise from idle to WOT?
What is the Ignition timing set at. I would be using 10deg BTDC as a static starting point.
That AAV HOT idle adjuster should be wound ALL the way IN, then backed out 2 1/2 turns, and that will be very close to what you want. Then do not mess with that again until the engine is HOT. That screw has NOTHING to do with cold idle, that is the precut slots inside the AAV.
Are the throttle cross rods synchronised???
The list goes on, ONE item at a time.
The smoke would be normal, with all the issues you have had, that engine is going to be pissy for a long while yet.
thanks for the info, I'm going to test the tps today. I was looking at the idle adjust yesterday. Didn't realize it's for hot only. I do know it looks like it's backed out farther than 2 1/2 turns. Pretty sure I tossed a new fuel filter on the thing when I pulled the tank(if I didn't I'll slap myself). Unsure what the ignition timing is at... parked against a wall pretty much so I can't even get under the front. Throttle rods... unsure of how synced they are. Seem to be. Is holding the throttle wide open with the engine speed only slowly rising a bad idea or might it help "clean" it out? Seemed like a bad idea so I just cut it
07-09-2017, 04:43 PM
