Anyone got any tips for installing a rubber door weather seal on a facelift coupe? I’m failing miserably.

 

1. Warm up the seal in some water?
2. Use soapy water liberally to help get it into place.
3. Use plastic parts to help get them into place?

 

The plastic pry/trim tools certainly helped. I’m about half done (after two hours).

I’m assuming I don’t need to take the door or the trim holder strips off (no idea how you would put them back on as the strip covers the screws)? I’ve got no idea how I’m going to get access to the area near the footwell.

 

Doing this in the cold probably makes it more challenging.

I hope you got it done.

 

Just had my driver door seal replaced by a shop. Seemed proper until I tried putting the window up...window slows notably as it rises and doesnt fully close at the top. If a professional shop couldnt install properly...good luck on DYI

 

If you are halfway done then you've figured out the technique--its just that hard (I've done it on two XJS' and a XJ12).
It's jobs like this that makes me wish I could talk to some retired jaguar factory worker whose job it was to install door seals and ask them how they did it, and how long it took on the line. Cause it wasn't hours like we've discovered!

I *think* the problem is that the chances the aftermarket door seals are made EXACTLY like the originals is slim. And the way that they are installed, with a bulb pushed into a c-channel, means that if the part of the seal "clips" in is too small then that would be catastrophe. But if it's slightly too big then you can eventually get it in, but only with effort. And so if there is any allowance, they're going to make it too big.

I went through this with a Mercedes 300D sunroof seal. Mercedes is pretty good about stocking old parts and they had the OEM seal available, as did the aftermarket. Everyone said get the OEM seal because the aftermarket didn't fit. I didn't listen. This sunroof seal installs similarly to the Jaguar door seal, a bulb gets pushed into a channel. The aftermarket seal I bought WOULD NOT go in, and if it did, it popped out. I spent hours on it. Then i broke down and bought the 5x more expensive OEM seal and it installed in 20 minutes. There was no discernible difference between them (looking back, i should measured them with digital calipers).

On my 1992 XJS (for sale!) I was able to eventually get the door seals installed but the lower back corner of each door is pushed out because the seal is too thick. The top of the door and latch area are flush, but the bottom just wouldn't line up. maybe over time?

Door seals are one of those things that I'm thinking should be left alone, unless there is an active wind or water leak, because new just creates new problems (in my experience).

Good luck!

 

Thanks for the encouragement!

I think you are right, my technique works, it’s just very very slow. I think I’ll try using a heat gun on low to (very carefully) soften the seal further and perhaps some petroleum jelly if the seal is grabbing (it should help with weather tightness as well).

I’m still not sure how I’ll get the seal near the door hinge in place, and wish I had started there.

 

one more tip, stretch/slide the seal fore and aft as youre installing so that the seal is positioned equally throughout the frame. In other words, you don't want it bunched up at the end, which alters the shape and makes it harder to install.

 

I’ve pretty much given up, 3 hours, and I just can’t get the seal in the top front curve of the door window, it just keeps popping out. I did notice on the part I took out, there were a series of holes that I assume line up with the mounting bracket fasteners.

So I’m going to buy a set of punch pliers, line the new part up with the old, and put those holes in. Then remove the fixing brackets, attach the seal to them, and then screw the whole thing on.

Does anyone know if those mounting bracket screws go into a captive nut? I assume if I take them out there’s no fastener that will drop away on the within the door frame?

 

It took me awhile as well….soapy water was what helped….as was the hot day I was working. Hair dryer would probably be safer than a heat gun.

 

Take a pic of what you're referring to, i think I know but want to be sure before I suggest