Help! Oxygen sensors not flip flopping
#1
Help! Oxygen sensors not flip flopping
If you read previous posts by me, you'll learn that I replaced both exhaust manifolds after finding a crack in one (the rear).
I stupidly used silicone paste to help slide on donut gaskets and apparently killed my oxygen sensors because the Sensor 1 (both banks) hovered in the 0.85 range without too much fluctuation.
I replaced the donuts, noting that all silicone had baked away aft about 100 miles of driving, and replaced all four oxygen sensors and now they're all stuck in the 0.125 range!
They do move, but not much, definitely not past 0.300. The Sensor 2 data does not show a voltage %. It stays locked at 0.00.
I simply cannot get out out of Open Loop. What can I check?
Coolant Temp Sensor is accurate at 180+
MAF Sensor is showing 0.07 at idle, 0.36 at speed.
Air Intake Temp also accurate at 70F. (It's cold outside)
What should I be checking.
I stupidly used silicone paste to help slide on donut gaskets and apparently killed my oxygen sensors because the Sensor 1 (both banks) hovered in the 0.85 range without too much fluctuation.
I replaced the donuts, noting that all silicone had baked away aft about 100 miles of driving, and replaced all four oxygen sensors and now they're all stuck in the 0.125 range!
They do move, but not much, definitely not past 0.300. The Sensor 2 data does not show a voltage %. It stays locked at 0.00.
I simply cannot get out out of Open Loop. What can I check?
Coolant Temp Sensor is accurate at 180+
MAF Sensor is showing 0.07 at idle, 0.36 at speed.
Air Intake Temp also accurate at 70F. (It's cold outside)
What should I be checking.
#2
#3
For your information there are different types of lambda sensors using Titania (Titanium dioxide) or Zirconia.
These types are not compatible due to different voltage swings which would lead to problems detecting transition from weak to rich mixtures.
See this link for more detailed explanation
sensor types
testing sensors
These types are not compatible due to different voltage swings which would lead to problems detecting transition from weak to rich mixtures.
See this link for more detailed explanation
sensor types
testing sensors
Last edited by Paul_59; 02-04-2015 at 11:24 AM.
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tokyodon (02-04-2015)
#4
#6
If you read previous posts by me, you'll learn that I replaced both exhaust manifolds after finding a crack in one (the rear).
I stupidly used silicone paste to help slide on donut gaskets and apparently killed my oxygen sensors because the Sensor 1 (both banks) hovered in the 0.85 range without too much fluctuation.
I replaced the donuts, noting that all silicone had baked away aft about 100 miles of driving, and replaced all four oxygen sensors and now they're all stuck in the 0.125 range!
They do move, but not much, definitely not past 0.300. The Sensor 2 data does not show a voltage %. It stays locked at 0.00.
I simply cannot get out out of Open Loop. What can I check?
Coolant Temp Sensor is accurate at 180+
MAF Sensor is showing 0.07 at idle, 0.36 at speed.
Air Intake Temp also accurate at 70F. (It's cold outside)
What should I be checking.
I stupidly used silicone paste to help slide on donut gaskets and apparently killed my oxygen sensors because the Sensor 1 (both banks) hovered in the 0.85 range without too much fluctuation.
I replaced the donuts, noting that all silicone had baked away aft about 100 miles of driving, and replaced all four oxygen sensors and now they're all stuck in the 0.125 range!
They do move, but not much, definitely not past 0.300. The Sensor 2 data does not show a voltage %. It stays locked at 0.00.
I simply cannot get out out of Open Loop. What can I check?
Coolant Temp Sensor is accurate at 180+
MAF Sensor is showing 0.07 at idle, 0.36 at speed.
Air Intake Temp also accurate at 70F. (It's cold outside)
What should I be checking.
For those of you who are subject to emissions testing, you should be aware of this. To put the EFI into closed-loop mode even in P or N, you must pull a shorting loop from a 2-connector socket near the ECU in the trunk.
CLOSED LOOP OPERATION: Michael Neal sends this info on checking the Digital P EFI system: "Monitoring O2 sensor feedback voltage just lets you know the EFI is in closed loop operation. This should be checked with a HIGH input impedance digital volt meter. A cheap meter will fry the system. Check the voltage at the O2 sensor connector with the sensor hooked up and the engine running. The voltage will fluctuate from 0 to 1 V. With a fairly fast updating meter you should get a voltage swing of at least .3 V. A .1 or .2 V swing shows a problem with the O2 sensor, open loop operation, or a problem with the sensor driver in the ECU.
"Verify the car is going into closed loop which is the .3 V or more swing. If it is then you need to check the injector duration. Most good meters have a duty cycle or millisecond pulse duration test feature to them. The pulse duration should be around 3 milliseconds."
Robert Dingli says: "It is pretty obvious when the system goes into closed loop control. While the open loop controller may be tuned to near lambda = 1 (relative air/fuel ratio where 1 equals stoichiometric mixture) the voltage output will ëflicker' around 0.5V or else sit at a low or high output. When under closed loop control, the perturbation due to the closed loop system can be clearly seen as a low frequency oscillation in the output."
taken from Electronic Fuel Injection
read the whole thing it is eye opening... (open loop)
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Hitch (10-24-2016)
#7
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Just to add to this AJ6 and AJ16 sensors are different. I was sold AJ6 sensors for my AJ16 car and was running with the CEL for months until I figured out the problem
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Jonathan-W (02-06-2015)
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