Brand new to this forum and need some advice.

I have an '87 XJS with 71K original miles. Minor mods to the car: removed one set of Cats and the resonators, switched to a single coil unit, upgraded radio after cassette player flamed out and switched to Wire spoke wheels.

My most immediate issues with the car are:

Headliner shell falling apart. I removed the entire assembly to get replace the headliner material but the shell is falling apart and of course no one makes them. Suggestions welcome.

Cruise control doesn't work but I got a new solenoid unit and will seal the bellows with a good silicone. Probably should check if it works with a voltage tester.

Open door buzzer won't turn off sometimes.

Fuel gauge is not working. I have not pulled the float from the tank.

Welcome Brad! Don't forget to check out the new members area and maybe add your car specs to your signature! It helps get the correct advice.

I get that door buzzer of doom sometimes. Mine is related to the belt latch switch. Jiggling the button on the passenger seat works for me.

New bellows for the cruise control are relatively inexpensive.

As for your headliner, I think you should check local upholterers. They can fabricate a solution for you. Not too pricey if you shop around, and don't skip the shops that are not English speaking. High quality work can be had for good prices.

Welcome Brad
There are plenty of suppliers for headliners:
xjs headlining | eBay

Welcome.

Please do your thing in the New Members Area when time permits.

Headliner backing, mine was toast, so my guy glued a very hi-density foam product to the roof, then the material to that, worked, looked, sweet. Also quieter than the original when rain and hail appeared.

Cruise, I simply replaced the whole system with an Acucruise.

Open door thingy, nah we no got those bells and whistles.

Fuel gauge, float full of fuel, champagne cork works well. Ethanol fuel will bugger that eventually, but again, we no got much Ethanol down here.

My headlining was falling apart so I made a new hard fiberglass one, to keep things quiet I added a sheet of sound deadener to the under side of the roof.

Jaguar XJS Restoration : XJS headlining board repair

Cruise control they ALL fail, If I were you I would do what Grant did using a stepper drive system, you can buy them on eBay for around $500AUD.

Thanks for the info. That's exactly what I need. Unfortunately for me they are all in the UK and they don't ship. I'd hate to guess what shipping to the states would be.

Thanks,

Where is the New members area?

Once I am sure the gas tank level is down to about 1/4 I'll try the champagne cork.

Hmmm. I am not a fan of champagne. At one time, it was a way to spend Saturday afternoons in the BOQ in Germany. shoot craps for Dmarks and sip the bubbly. Cheap, but good stuff from the Class VI store.


Tis been a while, since I popped a "cork" from a bottle of wine. It wasn't cork? Some simulation. do they float, I don't know.


I think float assemblies are available.


As to CC, I've never reinstalled the bellows. Never a fan of CC, so it just didn't happen.


But, some cars use a similar system but with a tin can bellows. Something like a small brake booster. No sealing issues.


Way back, I installed an after market CC in my 79 IHC Scout II. It used a chain and a tin bellows. Worked slick!!!


And, I think later GM cars used an electronic means to pull the throttle. Solenoid or stepper, I don't know. it can work, I think.


I think my TV bit the dust. Oh, me. spend a fortune for anew one, I thnk not....


Carl

RE: Headliner Shell

Call Paul's Jaguar in Florida -- phone 561-367-0525. He'd be the most likely to have one.

Found a place called Headliner Express in Winter Park FL near Orlando. The owner, Bill, sounds very knowledgeable. Despite the fact that I got the old headliner shell out of the car thru the passenger side door opening he said I'll never get a replacement back in the same way with out the board bending and causing a permanent crease in the material so..... the best way to install one of these is to take out either the rear or front glass. I'd probably prefer to go thru the rear window. I that difficult to take out and re-install?

I've got to disagree with Bill. It can be done w/o creasing, heck I've removed and installed the XJ6 series III board which is way bigger then the XJS through the door, removing a seat can help and is WAY easier then messing with the glass.

Thanks.* It has been awhile since I took it out but I sure don't remember it being nearly as difficult as so many had led me to believe over the years.* I just took my time and it eased on out, without any help.* The shell flexed a*bit but certainly did not bend to cause a crease.* I think I'll try it that way first before going to the last chance option.*I'd sure rather put the money that would be required to take the glass out and re-install toward getting the A/C or CC working correctly.*

New question. Is there some way to tell from the VIN what the interior color is supposed to be. The exterior is gunmetal grey and the interior is burgundy with what looks to me like grey trim but the headliner material actually best matched up to a "camel" color. It's very hard to distinguish between the subtle shade changes. I think grey and beige were the only two options.

Open the Driver's Door, there is a VIN Label that will have the three letter paint and trim codes at the bottom.

This may help once you find the 3 letter code

https://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Ja...lour_Chart.php

thanks. Interior code is CEM; Mulberry

I found a shop that says they can repair the existing headliner shell so I'll try that. I just have to get it to them now. Need an SUV to transport the headliner.

Car is running well but there is hesitation/lag on acceleration; both driving and when static in the garage manually twisting the throttle. Hmmm... Distributor and centrifugal advance is well service and operating perfectly.

Looking for thin copper washers to adjust the banjo bolt on the coolant crossover pipe so the holes in the bolt line up with the pipes to allow air or coolant to pass correctly.

Also looking for correct push locking washers to hold the license plate light clear lenses to the posts. Local products are too small or too big.
BTW...if you replace those white plastic parts it is much easier to cut a small groove out of the plastic and then push the part onto the rivet posts rather than replacing the rivets. Works perfectly. Does require you to take the entire assembly off the car but that is easy.

Radio now reinstalled and working perfectly.
BTW...for anyone whos gear indicator plastic piece has come loose on the bottom side it is likely due to the underside cruise control button retainer clip falling off. Easy to fix. Remove the cover, unscrew the shifter knobs, remove the four nuts holding the unit to the transmission hump base, push cruise control button retainer clip (white plastic piece) back in locking position.

Next up is fuel gauge float and cruise control bellows sealant.

Oil change and brake servicing (possibly replacing brake hoses since they are original) after that.

Get the AC working and a good orbital polishing and I'll be back in business.

A few things can cause that hesitation but one l have found which l think is often overlooked is the TPS. Check your voltages and that the voltage change is smooth from close to open.

TPS??
Where is it located? Thanks.

Throttle Position Sensor located below throttle capstan. To check voltage, follow wires back from under capstan to locate the 4 pin plug (only 3 wires red, green and yellow) pull plug apart just enough to probe the red wire with volt meter, other probe grounded. You want between .32 and .36 volts at idle position and smooth increase as throttle opens.