G'Day Colleagues
We finally have step one scratched of the list on the to do list. I finally finished replacing the upper , lower and steering rack bush's on the front. I used new polyurethane bush's which where not the cheapest or easiest to install, but are meant to be the best in terms of usable life goes. While I was at it I also changed the steering to a timber SAAS sports wheel. The new steering wheel has a lovely chunky feel to it and is way smaller than the original.
I had the car wheel aligned and I can honestly say I am more than pleased with the results. The car is so more responsive and you can actually feel the road now.
The first time in a long long time a car has spoken to me while driving it and and just wanted me to push it harder and harder. A far cry from what it was.
Part two will happen later this week, it's booked in to have the two rear resonators removed and two straight through pipes added with much smaller resonators fitted, can't hide that beautiful v12 singing voice.

 

Congrats. As a new owner myself, with a rather large TODO list, I know how good it feels to knock one off that list. I'll eventually need to do those bushes, too, but for myself I did knock out replacing the brake reservoir and master cylinder yesterday on my 86 XJS.

 

What was removing the the brake booster/servo like? A little further down the track I will have to remove mine, not that's worn but to remove the pedal box. I plan to go manual 5 speed.

 

Well, I have a non-ABS car, and I didn't remove the servo/booster, but...

My reservoir was cracked (the top had no flange to actually be able to screw on, so hooray, duct tape!), and there was a leak at the inlets for the master cylinder, so I knew these were going to need replacing. I could probably have rebuilt the MC, but decided to just get a whole new one (BTW, Amazon has a surprising selection of parts for our XJSes, and if you have Prime, that's free 2 day shipping).

Anyway, after sucking out all the fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster, I then cursed a bit while getting the two bolts holding it on off (just a bit hard to get to, but not particularly troublesome). Yoinked the two lines off of it. Pretty straight forward.

The master cylinder likewise wasn't bad. Followed the instructions in the shop manual (good note on pumping the pedal a few times to make sure vacuum is gone so it doesn't force out the piston in the booster). Anyway, two bolts holding it to the booster, and two joints for the metal brake lines near the inside of the body. Those were a little stubborn, so be ready with PB Blaster or WD-40, and be careful pulling them out and back, they're a bit long so don't go fast or force it or you'll break them. From there, it was just pulling the master cylinder straight off the booster, then right up out. Install was pretty easy, just make sure you've got a grommet/o-ring ready if your replacement didn't come with one (mine didn't, so had to make a trip to the store). Reconnecting was easy. I put new brake lines in from reservoir to cylinder, thanks to the Kirby Palm book's suggestion of using VW tubing for that (I actually kinda like the blue ).

Now, though, I'm stymied a bit at the bleed. Damn bleed valves are seized something fierce, and I've managed to round the hex pretty well. After some cursing, went and got more PB Blaster and soaked the suckers, and going to let that soak in a few days at least. I also went ahead and grabbed some new bleeder valves, the speed bleeder ones with the check valve in them, since I know these are toast anyway. Once I can get the damn things off, bleeding shouldn't be too bad, and my pedal won't be a sponge.

How bad were those front bushes? I know I'm gonna have to do that, but my first priority it making sure I've tracked down and addressed any leaks, then I'll probably tackle the electrical system.

 

Wow some to information there, cheers will definitely keep that in mind.

Ok the front bush's, be prepared, If you can get access to a hoist use one, I did mine on the ground with car stands, not recommended at all not fun at all!
The top bush's are easy, remove both top wishbones totally, there not hard to do only thing is the brake line gets in the way a bit on the rear upper. Now as for the lowers if you want to do them on the you will possibly have to remove your right hand side exhaust, I was lucky with mine no cat's 83 Aust. model cats weren't mandatory till 86 here. Anyway no cats my exhaust stayed on hooray.
You have to drop your steering rack, that doesn't really matter because you want to change the bush's in the rack also. Once the racks down the bush's on the rack are self explanatory. Ok we have removed the rack, exhaust, you may also have to lower the cradle? I didn't, the fulcrum bolts slide back but the darn things hit the sump, Like mine if your bush's are shot there is enough play to get the bolt out. Now If you install the original type rubber bush you are in trouble you wont get the bolts back in, but with the 3 piece polly bush you can get the bolt in (with hardship) without dropping the cradle. I can Explain further if you wish.
My 2 cents worth, Car hoist big help! Possible dropping the entire cradle maybe easier if you have stubbern blots, mine rifted out easy, I knew those jag motor leaks were designed on purpose just to keep the lube to the bolts under there. LOL Some people dont like the poly bushs I personaly like mine, car feels so much better, but I drive a 4wd work truck all day everyday and Im used to feeling the road. I personly don't like real soft boaty like front ends.
I had a thread running last week about the lower fulcrum bolt and bush's lots of good tips and advice there also.
Good Luck with it!