PS Hose Replacement
87 XJS HE
Bast%$#d of a job. Can be done though, patience and persistence.
16mm,13mm line wrenches are the key. 3 bolts hold up the rack. I didn't disconnect the steering knuckle to replace the pressure and return hoses.
Both tie rods need to come apart. Use a jack to move the rack up and down to put into position, to remove the line nuts. This is anywhere from 1800-2000$ dollar job at a repair/dealer.
These hoses dry rot within them self, when under pressure they can leak like a water hose is on. The return should be replaced when doing the high pressure. First of all, believe me, you don't want to do this again and second, removing the return hose gives you room to get at the main culprit most of the time, the high pressure hose. You will need all the room you can find and/or make.
For those of you who have done this, you are well aware of how tricky it is to get those line nuts to bite. This alone can take anywhere to a very lucky 5 mins, to the normal hour, just to get them started, and you have 3 of these to do.
Tips: Attach the pressure hose to the frame at the metal bend, not tightly though, just so you are able to move it without it dropping down and pulling it from where you have been working. You need to hold the hose with your right hand and fish it through on the side of the motor mount.
USE THE LINE NUT to start your connection, don't push the double flared end into the hole. If you do this, you will add numerous hours to the job trying to get the nut to bite. The line nut will bring the flared end into its position, once you start to tighten it.
Good lighting is a must, you are working in the darkest place on the vehicle.
Get OEM hoses. Period.
Just be prepared for the long haul, its a very challenging job, hats off to those of you who have done it. And as always, your write ups within the forum about this job helped me to do it.
Bast%$#d of a job. Can be done though, patience and persistence.
16mm,13mm line wrenches are the key. 3 bolts hold up the rack. I didn't disconnect the steering knuckle to replace the pressure and return hoses.
Both tie rods need to come apart. Use a jack to move the rack up and down to put into position, to remove the line nuts. This is anywhere from 1800-2000$ dollar job at a repair/dealer.
These hoses dry rot within them self, when under pressure they can leak like a water hose is on. The return should be replaced when doing the high pressure. First of all, believe me, you don't want to do this again and second, removing the return hose gives you room to get at the main culprit most of the time, the high pressure hose. You will need all the room you can find and/or make.
For those of you who have done this, you are well aware of how tricky it is to get those line nuts to bite. This alone can take anywhere to a very lucky 5 mins, to the normal hour, just to get them started, and you have 3 of these to do.
Tips: Attach the pressure hose to the frame at the metal bend, not tightly though, just so you are able to move it without it dropping down and pulling it from where you have been working. You need to hold the hose with your right hand and fish it through on the side of the motor mount.
USE THE LINE NUT to start your connection, don't push the double flared end into the hole. If you do this, you will add numerous hours to the job trying to get the nut to bite. The line nut will bring the flared end into its position, once you start to tighten it.
Good lighting is a must, you are working in the darkest place on the vehicle.
Get OEM hoses. Period.
Just be prepared for the long haul, its a very challenging job, hats off to those of you who have done it. And as always, your write ups within the forum about this job helped me to do it.
Been there, done that and it is quite a job. My XJS is a 4.0 so it may be easier that the 5.3. The price seems a bit high. Are shops in NH charging that much for a simple hose repair?
RagJag
RagJag
Last edited by RagJag; May 31, 2014 at 09:48 AM.
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