So I got the sub axles out and the bearings there are Timken made in the USA and show wear. The Pinion Bearings were SKF made in Germany and looked almost perfect. Anyone know what the Diff came with from factory?

 

Depending on the age, I usually see Timkin Made in England for everything but the pinion, and the pinion bearings are typically German. Sometimes French, too. I just took apart a 94 diff, and the bearings were Koyo brand.

Bearings are made to very tight tolerances, you don't have to worry about brand.

 

Thanks Jagboi, will def be replacing the output shaft bearings as the races and roller surfaces are dark grey. The pinion bearing looks brand new with no signs of wear at all so I may be leaving that alone

 

If you can leave the pinion alone that makes the rebuild much easier.

 

Kmarajh:


Great work. You just took a second wind and dove in. Kudos.


Way back when, some domestic critters used rear hubs that were "secured" to the axe via a slot and key. In spite of the seal on the axle housing, lube migrated though the key way and made a grand external mess. Nice car, but grease streaks on the rear wheels and tires!!!


Loctite not available then. But, many, including me slathered in some Permatex Red.
It usually worked.


I have a bit of an issue with Loctite. It isn't so much of a sealer, but a means of securing joined parts. And thusly, removal can be a problem? I don't know for sure.
I use it on joints that I do not intend to part for a very long time, if ever!!


Neatly twisted "safety wire" is not only secure but very attractive. Hidden on a cage removes one of the attractions. I suspect that single strand mechanics wire or even common, at least at one time, baling wire will do as well. It is the order of the threading of the wire from hole to hole that does the job. Hard to put in type. but the objective is to lace the wire to cause the fastener seeking to rotate CCW to encounter the wire restricting that rotation.


Carl

 

There are many different grades and strengths of Loctitie, it isn't just a single product. What you use depends on if you need the joint to come apart again or not.

 

So after months of what felt like an Easter egg hunt for parts, the rear subframe is rebuilt and ready to go back in. Reman calipers, new rotors, all new seals, new output shaft bearings, new pinion spacer, new mounts, clean and degreased the insane collection of spacers for the lower control arms. New trailing arm bushings arrived so will be pressing those in and I had to retap the front mount a size bigger due to broken bolt. I ruined one output shaft seal trying to hammer it in with a 3/4" extension so had to pull it all apart and wait for new seal. tightened output shaft nuts back to original marked spot and they are quite snug. Pinion had to go a bit past but then again it was loose and sloppy when removed. Hoping to have it back in this weekend. I used threadlock instead of redoing the safety wire as it seems to be too much of an art for me. Spoke with the guy at Fastenal and he said I should be fine since they see it alot on machinery. I also chopped all the exhaust rear of tranny off the car since it was all corroded and a pain in the ***. the heap weighs over 90lbs. Will drive as is for testing purposes then get ready to yank the engine and trans out for the swap. Thanks to everyone who gave advice during this rebuild



Looks a tad different than when it came out

 

Great work, it looks like new!