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I’ve accessed the ECU, per pics below. However, I’ve never seen actual plugs that look like this, so I’m nervous about trying to remove them, not really knowing what I’m doing. There are two long plugs, one yellow, and one blue. They have a “paddle” of sorts on one end each. I don’t know if I should push the paddle in, then try to wiggle the plug away from its mate, or pull the “paddle” away from plug and wiggle the plug out. Here are the two ECU plugs I don’t know how to unplug.
I have a 95, but the location of the ECU is in exactly the same place as in your 94. Water ingress is a problem on the facelift cars. Water drips from the AC pipe and makes it’s way down to the connectors. I have lost 2 ECU’s that way until we figured out the problem and packed the connectors with a special Motorcraft connector gel. If you don’t feel comfortable checking yourself, have your shop do it. Otherwise, disconnect the battery first and then check the pins carefully. The connectors have a securing system to keep them held down to the ECU, but there is nothing special or particular about them.
Exactly-number 2. It runs and operates great, starts great, then after it gets warmed up, it starts the stuttering a lot upon acceleration and you can also feel it missing,and you can give it a rev, and it gets better, but as it winds down, just starts that stuttering and missing shaking.
Well it won't be the plugs then. Not rotor, cap or coil as all changed. Could possibly be the plug wires breaking down under load, when higher voltage needed at the plug is needed. Could be the ignition module breaking down when it gets hot maybe. It would be useful to check fuel pressure but if you say it is a misfire my money is on the ignition module.
Does the tach flicker when its having a problem?
Last edited by kansanbrit; May 20, 2021 at 10:03 AM.
