You're a fan of the movie "Eurotrip", aren't you?

 

not sure how thats relevant, but....... yes.

 

You quoted "Here's a fun fact" three times.

I can picture you saying "This is definitely where I parked my car" the entire time you're going through this ordeal.

Or maybe "Worst...Jag...ever".

 

LOL


definitely not the worst jag ever. mines totally and completely rust free, gorgeous, and with the exception of a bad subframe bush and a leaking power steering hose, utterly wonderful to drive.

i have said "Worst.... Engine.... Ever" a few times.

 

Get her running properly and you will be saying best engine ever. I can tell you how much better than an L67 it is so much smoother and bucket loads of torque.

 

take the converter out of your holden and youll be blown away by the difference it makes. drop a few pulley sizes and youll be speachless.


the V12 definitely sounds better, especially once i took the air cleaners chokes off, and ill be really dissapointed if i end up lumping it.

 

If the vacuum at the ECU is good, and it will do a "reset" of sorts if you pull a really big vacuum, it may be the MAP sensor itself is going bad. That's on the ECU board and is connected to the case via a short internal hose.

 

I got started in this thread because I just went through rewiring my CTS and the YB to the TPS last week. My car ran great, except for the first few minutes of a cold start. It would chug along at just a few rpms and almost die. I wanted to be able to just jump in it cold and drive away. It ran perfectly after about 3-5 minutes warmup, though. After rebuilding my AAV and going through everything relating to the vac advance and 45-sec timer I checked the CTS resistance back at the ECU and it was reading high when cold (about 1200 ohms at the CTS but 1600 at the ECU at the particular temperature it was at). So, I rewired.

When the wiring was done I started the car up and was really angry with myself. It was running OK but pouring smoke and unburnt fuel out of the pipes. I cursed, shut the hood and went in to work figuring I just wasted a few hours. After the car had warmed up the smoke seemed to go away.

The next day I went outside and started it up. It was about 30 degrees outside. It fired right up and ran beautifully with no smoke. With no warmup whatsoever I hopped in and drove away. Same thing the day after.

Do these ECUs really react this severely to "changes" to their normal daily routine? It almost seemed like it was pissed at me for repairing the CTS wiring, and then after it thought about it for a bit it realized, "oh, yeah, this IS better".

Sorry for the diatribe but is there some sort of a flash or memory clear procedure that needs to be gone through after making changes or something? Your comment about it running better with the + batt cable pulled made me think of what happened to me last week. I still think you have to redo your wiring harness and your vac lines and stuff, but I'm wondering after each of these issues you've repaired if you shouldn't be clearing the ECU memory in some way before you pass judgment that whatever you did, DIDN'T work.

D

Anyone have any input?

 

As far as I know the ECUs in the old V12s do not have any "learning" capability at all. No adaptives to reset, no memory to "Clear", etc.


Cheers
DD

 

These things are purely analog so they react badly when sensors fail.

A failed CTS could cause an overfuel situation. A corroded or intermittent connection could also be at fault.

 

CTS gets 5v and appears to be new.

how do you tell if an o2 sensor is bad? Mish said something about this potentially causing backfires. i had an o2 sensor light on when i first bought the car.

 

The O2 sensor light doesn't indicate a failure, it's triggered by either a timer or an internal odometer set to a certain interval that they suggest the O2 sensors be changed out. It's more of a reminder light than a failure warning.

I doubt an O2 sensor would cause an issue as drastic as what you're seeing. They normally "fine tune" things, and besides, you're having issues before you even get into closed-loop mode.

 

so i rigged up a temporary injector harness with the BMW stuff i had. no change whatsoever.

i dont think you guys understand just how rich im talking about here. it runs SO rich that i drained 5 gallons in about an hours worth of idling. my supercharged GP doesnt drain 5 gallons in an hour of driving.

 

so i rigged up a temporary injector harness with the BMW stuff i had. no change whatsoever.

i dont think you guys understand just how rich im talking about here. it runs SO rich that i drained 5 gallons in about an hours worth of idling. my supercharged GP doesnt drain 5 gallons in an hour of driving.

 

Refresh my memory. Have to done a fuel pressure test?

Cheers
DD

 

negative. but the seller assured me that its a new pump, and that its got good fuel pressure.

i should really check it myself though.

also, what does everyones jag do when you disconnect the injector harness while running? does the engine race up to about 2k and then die, or does it just shut off?

cause mine races up to about 2k and then dies, which kinda of makes me curios as to the water tightness of the injectors when theyre closed, I.E. upon start up.

 

The concern here would be too much pressure due to a faulty regulator. This could easily cause massive over-fueling.


Yes! You'll have to cut the left side fuel hose and insert a "tee" for your pressure gauge....then replace the hose when you're done. It's the hose the attaches to the left side of the fuel rail, sorta towards the rear.




yeah, drippy injectors. Or there's a great heaping load of fuel in the combustion chambers. When additional fuel is stopped (by unplugging the harness) you're burning the existing fuel....and for a moment there the engine clears its throat and takes off.

Cheers
DD

 

Checked temperature sensor you have?

 

no.

both of my FPR's are brand new, still shiny, and neither one leaks.

 

Mine also rev'd up like that and died. It also was running so rich that after just a short time of running I would have to change the oil because it would dump it into the crankcase.