Okay, I think there has been too mich panicing here lately. Yes, turning these engines backwards can cause problems. BUT the tensioners has enougg slack for about 1/4 turn. How do I know? 'Cos I tested it. A couple of millimetres (degrees) will not destroy the tensioner. You just need some feel. Best is simple: hold a ratchet on the front nut of the crank and use that as a counter lever if you don't like the idea... Nothing else...

 

Thank you
I will use my impact, no leverage needed.Just found out from JigJag impact wont work. I will loosen the fan belt if clutch proves to be bad. Thanks again

 

There's no room for getting any kind of impact tool in there. Open end wrenches fit in and are fine.

It seems to me that removing the fan belt is an easy and sensible precaution before removing the fan. That will prevent any chance of turning the motor backwards during the job. It doesn't do a great job of holding the fan still anyway, and if it did, you have trouble getting to all four screws.

Holding the fan still to remove the nuts is not hard. I use a very large flathead screwdriver between a nut and the shaft of the fan as a lever. I've done it as Daim suggests, using another spanner. The nuts aren't very large or tight and shouldn't take much effort.

The fan has to move away from the engine as the nuts are undone so that the nuts have sufficient room to be fully undone, and that's really the only tricky bit. That and the three-dimensional, interlocking, fan-shroud-parts puzzle.

 

Thats probably as good as you are going to get it without removing other items for rear cylinder access. Pushing through the front on one side will only get to ABOUT #4 cylinder in reality, then flow across and out the other side. It will move some stuff around thats about all.

Have you flushed the heater core in both directions/????, if not, there will be mud in there.

When refilling make sure the heater tap is WIDE open, and that is with the external lever in the DOWN position.

Adding to the previous thread, I would be VERY careful about leaving any cleaning stuff sitting in the block for too long. Most of the half decent ones, and I do not use any at all, are quite aggressive, and could damage the alloy block and other bits. Read the label and do not deviate at all.

 

Thanks Grant, I did not do the heater back flush because when I turn heat on it puts out very hot air on high so I assumed it was clean, am I wrong ?

 

Okay thanks, I did not realize an impact would not work, your pics surely show that it wont. Thanks again

 

Hi Mac

As has been already said an Impact Wrench won't work.

But this is the Method I use.

First of all Slacken off the Belt Tension Adjuster for the Boss, which as you will see from the Photo is a Pulley Wheel which is moved by an Arm.

Ideally the Adjusting Nuts should be free enough to turn with your Fingers once you undo the Lock Nut (on the Same Rod)

There are Two main reasons for doing this and one is to 'HELP' to avoid accidentally turning the Engine.

Which you absolutely DO NOT WANT TO DO as if you turn it the wrong way you could damage the Engine or maybe even wreck it altogether.

So slackening the Belt adjuster may help the Boss to Slip on the Belt, rather than to grip the Belt and Turn the Engine over which could Wreck it.

Don't completely rely on that, just be very careful NOT to let the Engine turn.

The other reason to Slacken the Boss Belt Adjuster, is that when you have undone one Nut, you can then turn the Boss to get to the next nut.

Its only the Boss you want to Turn DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE.

Assuming that you've slackened off the Boss Belt Adjuster, put a long thin Screwdriver between Two of the Nuts that you are not moving (at the time)

In other words use the Screwdriver to Jam the Boss to prevent it from Turning, while you undo one of the other Nuts with a Spanner.

Then Rinse and repeat for the other 3 Nuts.



Using the Blade of a Screwdriver to prevent the Boss from Turning while you undo one of the Nuts, then 'Rinse and Repeat' to undo the others.



Slacken off the Boss Belt Tensioner Wheel, which will make it easier to get to each nut in turn. BUT DO NOT ALLOW THE ENGINE TO MOVE WHILE YOU DO THIS.
Only turn the Boss and nothing more

 

I would also assume it to be OK, and any crud is already back in the radiator.

Its just a habit thing with me to flush that heater whenever the chance arrives, as it spends a lot of time closed off with no/little flow, and then when needed, all that settled stuff simply goes back to the radiator.

As for rotating that engine via the fan and or hub bolts, you would want to be very good. They will loosen, or the belt slip, long before moving that engine. The hub pulley will slip in the belt, and if it dont, that belt is STUPID tight and whoever did that needs a "slap", and NO alcohol for a week at least.

I removed fans on these long before the Internet, yes I am that old, and never thought anything of engine rotation, as it just does not happen.

Daim is also correct, that PLASTIC tensioner does have some give, as does the loooooong chain, and 99% you will be OK, but if that tensioner is "on the edge" as most will now be due to age, a reverse rotation is all that it may take to snap it.

 

If you've had the misfortune to have done this is there any way to check for damage

 

Hi Brinny

I am super Paranoid about turning the Engine backwards because I accidentally did it myself when I was changing a Fan.

As there was enough Friction in the belts to allow that to happen when I levered the Boss round.

The worst thing is, its so easy to do without realizing what is happening.

Fortunately I didn't turn it too far but when I Started the Engine, then all hell broke loose with a lot of clattering that was making me think that I had a dropped Valve.

After a few nervous Start ups, the problem corrected itself with no damage done and has run like a bird ever since.

But after that experience, I am very careful to make sure the Engine does not accidentally turn.