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Hi im having strange problem with my 95 xjs; sometimes the steering wheel suddenly sharply turns left when i brake, and if so, at the same time i hear the abs being applied, as if im driving on ice on the left side while braking. 97 percent of the time everything works. Yesterday i felt the brake pedal being harder then normal, as well for a few seconds. This is dangerous i think...!
sonetimes the abs light is on, but not the times when this happens... any ideas? Thanx a lot! Pim
Its in the 200+ Vin number so is it teves 4 then?
By the way; brakes discs, etc have been replaced recently, could the mechanic have made a fault; ive read something about brake fluid going back into the master cilinder? Is this a problem with my teves 4 as well?
Does you Car have the Vacuum Assisted Brake Booster with the Separate ABS on the other side of the Car
Or Does your Car have the Teves System with the big white plastic Reservoir on the Top of the Master Cylinder Actuator and a Separate Brake Pump with the Black Ball Actuator
The later system on your Car should be a lot more reliable than the earlier version and the 'black round thing' you refer to, should look more like a round cylinder than a round Ball
In which case it is starting to sound as if it could be something to do with the fitting of your New Rotors
Can you see anything obvious, like leaking Brake Fluid somewhere, or maybe your Brake Pads or Calipers are Sticking?
Might be worth you asking the Mechanic that fitted the Rotors to give them a looking over and may also be well worth while to re-bleed the Brakes, just in case any Air got into the System
Sending Brake Fluid the wrong way up the System can cause problems but I doubt that this could be the cause of your problem in this case
With that VIN, you have the latest, and last, brakes that were fitted to the XJS. I believe they are Teves IV. You need to have your guy take another look. Or find another guy who can go behind this guy and find what he did wrong.
The brakes on these late cars are pretty solid. If things were done right, you shouldn't have any issues.
As mentioned, the late ABS system is pretty robust and not subject to the vagaries of the earlier Teves system.
If I had to guess, I'd say it might sound like a sticking caliper on one side of the car. I would get the front-end calipers and pads checked.
Good luck
Paul
Rather than a sticking caliper on the left, have you thought that it could be a non actuating caliper on the right side? After a drive, check the heat of each wheel to see what's cold and what hot. If your right side is colder than the left or the other wheels, then it may not be working. Consequently if the only difference is that the left side is hotter than then all of them, then suspect the left sticking.
Did it do this prior to the brake work recently done?
hi, both calipers were replaced, and stupidly; a couple of weeks later i had him replace the discs and pads because they were not straight anymore. i should have let him do it at the same time obviously, but didn't think of it. the problem occurred for the first time after the last change, so the change of the discs and pads.
1. Rebleed the front calipers. Changing the discs might just have caused a trapped air bubble to move.
2. Check the runout of the new discs and dismantle and refit if necessary
3. Pull out the pads and check the free movement of the caliper pistons
4. Refit the pads and ensure free movement on their top and bottom edges within the calipers
hi it seems that the problem has changed to the ABS activating once in a while, but without the need for it, so during normal breaking, ABS would activate. i hear the pump and feel vibrations. where there is no slippery road or abrupt braking...
I'd start by checking the wiring integrity on the wheel sensor (assuming you know which one is ABS pulsing?). Then check the ABS reluctor ring on that hub to check for any debris, blockage or damage which is causing the ABS to initiate.
As the brake discs were replaced, you may have a damaged reluctor, as the discs are bolted to the inside of the hub rather than on modern cars on the outside. So if the disc was rusty around the inner surface, where the selector wheel fits, a workshop could just pull the disc resulting in the reluctor either snapping (happend to me) or dislodging or losing a tooth enough to cause a problem (the car thinking the wheel has stopped or locked).
Get it on a lift, remove both front wheels and have a look on the inside - if possible.
Definitely clean the reluctors and pick ups of the sensors.
Definitely clean the reluctors and pick ups of the sensors.
is this accessible without wheel removal ? I have a similar issue car jerks hard right on sudden braking like I've startled the car. Issue is rare under warm conditions like after driving fkr 30mins.
is this accessible without wheel removal ? I have a similar issue car jerks hard right on sudden braking like I've startled the car. Issue is rare under warm conditions like after driving fkr 30mins.
If I remember correctly, I think you have a 1989 XJS V12 with the Teves Mk1V Master Cylinder Actuator
If your Car is pulling Hard Right under sudden Braking, then it could be you have a Broken or 'Almost Broken' Ribbon Wire in the Valve Block which is on the side of the Master Cylinder Actuator
A Broken or loose Ribbon Wire is one of the most common causes of Hard Pulling to the Right under Sudden Braking, as these Ribbon Wires degrade and become very 'Crispy' so if its causing you a problem
You can Test it in the Car and then report back on your findings
Here is a Link to a Video which shows you how to Test it about half way down on the page
XJS brakes acting strange
