The OEM engine air filter on my 1960 Corvette was foam bathed lightly in oil, similar to today's K&N filter. When I swapped out the original 283/230HP engine in 1965 for a 1965 327/365HP crate engine (WOOHOO!!!) the OEM filter was a paper element. Oiled foam is ancient technology. I learned my lesson after falling for K&N's marketing hype and buying 2 for my 1993 600SL. A waste of money IMHO. A high quality paper filter works better and costs less.
If the K&N oiled foam method was better, manufacturers would have continued to use it after the '60s.
If you read that entire thread, I think you'll agree that there's not much more that can be said, either pro or con, about K&N air filters without being repetitive. That makes it a definitive thread.
Gotta say for what little it's worth I agree with Stuart on the filters.
I've read pros and cons on the KN, but LOTS of nightmare threads about MAF sensors on these cars. My thinking: stay with the OEM filters . Plus, I feel like I read a comment from Brutal (who's off this group?), pointing out that the sensors ARE tricky, and something about how using not only OEM but MATCHED filter pairs was the way to go. Honestly, I've never had an issue or thrown a code on that and at this point I don't want to start. So I'll pay the crazy price to not have to worry for a few years.
I've had K+N filters for 3 years now. No issues as long as you clean them out every now and then.
There was a P0101 code that always came up, but I was able to pinpoint that to an intake air leak, not the filters, not the MAF sensors.
Also, getting the filters 'checked' has the same labor cost as getting them 'replaced'. There's no way to check them out without doing all the work anyway. Unless they are boroscoping them.
If you plan on doing it again while you own the car, you might as well do it yourself now and learn the procedure.
I've had K+N filters for 3 years now. No issues as long as you clean them out every now and then.
There was a P0101 code that always came up, but I was able to pinpoint that to an intake air leak, not the filters, not the MAF sensors.
Also, getting the filters 'checked' has the same labor cost as getting them 'replaced'. There's no way to check them out without doing all the work anyway. Unless they are boroscoping them.
If you plan on doing it again while you own the car, you might as well do it yourself now and learn the procedure.
When I had them checked but not replaced I was not charged.
I've had K+N filters for 3 years now. No issues as long as you clean them out every now and then.
There was a P0101 code that always came up, but I was able to pinpoint that to an intake air leak, not the filters, not the MAF sensors.
Also, getting the filters 'checked' has the same labor cost as getting them 'replaced'. There's no way to check them out without doing all the work anyway. Unless they are boroscoping them.
If you plan on doing it again while you own the car, you might as well do it yourself now and learn the procedure.
When I had them checked but not replaced I was not charged. They removed one and said it was OK.
Not to sidetrack..... Is there a need to check my engine air filter with 12,000 miles on the odometer on a 2010 XK? I’m sure all filters are original. How about the A/C filter? Thanks all.
I have found the cabin filters on every car I’ve checked to be in need of replacement every year. As for the intake filters, it’s likely environment will determine that. If you drive through a lot of dirt and dust they are going to clog up. Mine were like new after over 50,000 miles done,
Is the A/C cabin filter an easier replacement than the engine air filter?
EXTREMELY. It's under a little panel up near the washer bottle spout. Remove that plastic panel from the top, then its under a flip lid. Like 5 minutes if you take your time.
EXTREMELY. It's under a little panel up near the washer bottle spout. Remove that plastic panel from the top, then its under a flip lid. Like 5 minutes if you take your time.
Thank you for your help....Just got off the phone with Jaguar Parts....Does $87.29 sound right for retail on the A/C cabin filter? (2010 XK Coupe 5.0) I Didn't do any research and I always go with OEM. Just wanted to make sure. Thanks.
Thank you for your help....Just got off the phone with Jaguar Parts....Does $87.29 sound right for retail on the A/C cabin filter? (2010 XK Coupe 5.0) I Didn't do any research and I always go with OEM. Just wanted to make sure. Thanks.
I bought one on Amazon aftermarket and it fit and performs great.
It’s likely mostly labor. Remove both front wheels, remove front wheel liners, remover filter housing screws and covers, slide out filters and holders, install new filters and reverse.
now if you are doing yourself, you can just do one side at a time and turn the steering away to reveal the front liner, undo the liner screws and fold it back, open the filter house and wiggle the filter assembly out.
Chances are the shop is not going to want to take the risk of cracking or breaking the wheel wells by folding them back and will remove them completely to get access.
Chances are the shop is not going to want to take the risk of cracking or breaking the wheel wells by folding them back and will remove them completely to get access.
I wouldn't pull them back for risk of having them flop around and get dust/debris into the exposed intake boxes.
For the Cabin Air Filter(also sometimes called the pollen filter on these cars): Yep, super easy. I get a Beck Arnley one on Ebay, about thirty bucks. BUT... if I go get one at a local Jag dealer, it's like forty and change. Who's suggesting that crazy price?
There are two "threads" of advice here, so pay no attention to those talking about "pulling back flaps." Those are for the engine air filters-- totally different operation.
It’s likely mostly labor. Remove both front wheels, remove front wheel liners, remover filter housing screws and covers, slide out filters and holders, install new filters and reverse.
now if you are doing yourself, you can just do one side at a time and turn the steering away to reveal the front liner, undo the liner screws and fold it back, open the filter house and wiggle the filter assembly out.
Wow, that’s a crap ton of work just to get to those filters.
