Can anyone provide the size or pin spacing for rewinding the rear brake caliper.
I tried the AutoZone tool but none fit the spacing. Trying to determine what size to possibly buy a set, but need to know the spacing first. Can seem to find a reference any where.

Thanks,
Dana

 

I used the Autozone tool but needed to drill the puck holes out oversize for it to fit on my '07. Kind of a wonky design.

 

Dana, I bought an inexpensive universal brake caliper set on eBay for my 07 and 12 verts. It didn't fit the pin spacing so I used a grinder and file on the pins to relieve them enough to fit the spacing.

I can't remember the cost but it was something less than $20. After "modifying" the pins it worked great.

I don't know if that helps but it is the best I can offer without shelling out big $$ for a Jag specific tool.

 

If you want to have a proper set of inexpensive brake caliper tools, have a look at this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/disc-b...-pc-63264.html

 

Thanks for the replies.

I will look into the Harbor Freight one.

Found this one on Amazon and may work since it will see minimum us

 

You can buy Carsoft i930, it will read and clear codes, retract and reset the emergency park brake, reset service lights, live data, etc etc for $130.00.

 

Mufc,

Are you sure about "retract" the emergency park brake.

This seem more mechanical since it has to be screwed back in with a tool.

I'm going to read up on it more.

 

The electronic parking brake must be released prior to removing the rear caliper. There are some members of this forum who remove the negative battery terminal as an added precaution.

The caliper tool is designed to retract the caliper piston far enough to allow the caliper to fit over the new brake pads. There is no other adjustment that needs to be performed.

 

Bought this set back in 2015 for $39 on Amazon to do the rear brakes on my 07 XK.
One of the adapters fit correctly. I see its now down to $30.

 

NBCat,

That was my original assumption after reading several different post and procedures, then I start rethinking and now in the process of re-evaluating. Thanks for your input.

I ordered the tool, after seeing one at O'Reilly's. (Amazon 1/2 the price) If everything works correctly and the calipers retract with out any other issues than I think the tools is sufficient. Not like I'm a mechanic using it on a daily basis. Hopefully I'll get to it early next week. And I will post back.

 

The caliper has a one way pawl to push the pucks further and further out each time the pad wears down. That's totally mechanical and not related to the electric actuator. That's why you need to tool.

 

Update on my brake job.

Finally got everything back in order.
The tool I ordered worked fine. I used it with a caliper tool to hold pressure on the piston while I pushed and turned. I will look in to maybe modifying that assembly to make it a bit more functional.

Ran into a significant problem removing my rims. First time I've had to remove them and it appears that somewhere along the way the lug nuts were over tightened. One lug nut had to be removed by using a nut extractor and and cheater pipe on a breaker bar.

Flush the fluid with a hand operated vacuum pump, slow but worked well.

Tested the parking brake and it holds fine. Here in south Louisiana we do not use the parking brakes very often.

I installed Posi Quiet Ceramic Brake Pads with new Centric Premium High Carbon Brake Rotors.

The braking characteristics did change somewhat but after I bedded them in the pads pretty much back to original.


Overall dust at this point is less.

I had to replace the sensors since one had worn (front) and the rear one was broken. Was able to find OEM types for about 1/2 dealer cost. RMeuropean, no affiliation, just better pricing.

 

Hello, Im about to do bake pads on my 2010XK this weekend


I have a standard C clamp,


will this be enough to get the job done, or is the specific
windback tool required?

 

You have an X150, you need the tool (ok, you don’t ‘need’ it, you could do it with the points of a needle nose pliers, but you will ‘want’ the tool).

 

C-clamp will not work on the rears and it might damage the caliper. Get the tool.

 

You will need to screw the caliper piston in (clockwise) while also putting a slight pressure on the piston.
DONOT FORCE THE PISTON IN WITH THE CLAMP. You will ruin the caliper assembly.
The tool I used in the picture worked. In fact I used and inexpensive caliper compression tool with this tool in line .
Then put slight pressure and rotated (with channel locks) the pinned tool . Continued the sequence till it was all the way back in. Goes slowly but it worked very well.
A c-clamp would also work but, you would have to remove it to wind in the piston .
There are other methods of rotating the piston like others mentioned.
There are loaner tools from auto parts but my local AutoZone did not have the correct pin adapter to use.
Harbor Freight also is supposed to have a tool set that works.
For $35 or so I bought the compression tool (locally) and tool (Amazon) with the adjustable pins.