Recently my XK refused to start. There are flashing messages saying things "put foot on brake" (which I had) and something like "not in Park" which it was.. And there were ding, ding, dings, like a door was open or seat belt unfastened. Eventually it said "Low battery" even though I had it on a my Schumacker charger for 3 days and it said it was fully charged.

Added thought: Maybe it WASN'T in Park. It's been 2-3 weeks since I drove the it so I'm not sure, But .if I recall correctly the round shifter on the center console is supposed to pop up, but it now it doesn't. That means I CAN'T put it in Park. If so, how do I get it to pop up?
Has anyone else here had this problem?

Any suggestions?

Ed

 

Hard reset?

 

Def try hard restart. I always hold the start button first and then tap the brake pedal too - works a lot better for me.

 

How old is the battery? Just because the charger says "full" doesn't mean the batt is any good.

 

I also agree with McJag222 and check your battery. I remember my battery showing a green light (full charge) from my CTEK before starting out for the day, and three days later (with the CTEK off) my battery crapped out. If you battery is between 2-3 years old, I'd definitely look there first. Of course batteries can go bad at anytime.

 

Local Firestone store installed a new Die Hard a little over a year ago.

 

Today I removed the forward panel in the boot to expose the battery and check it directly. Using my professional quality DVM, I measured ..a voltage of 12.5V.

 

So here's the problem.
(a) the engine won't start if not in Park,
(b) the console shift knob must be raised in order to put in in Park, and
(c) voltage is OK,
(d) what can be keeping the knob from popping up?

 

Too low a voltage. You NEED 12.6 after sitting for several hours. Get it charged! Then try reading it again hours later.

 

Hmmm. Seems to me that a 10th of a volt too low isn't too shabby.

As I said earlier, I had it on the charger for several days before the episode... to the point the charger dropped down to "maintaining."

 

A tenth of a volt IS shabby when it's the tenth that makes it go below the 12.6 minimum.
Seriously. Ask any Veteran member in here.

 

1. It's the battery
2. Door open
3. Poor electrical connection
a. battery terminals
b. battery charger clip/connectors

Q: 1. What is the make/model/amp rating of your battery charger maintainer?
2. How are you measuring the voltage? Voltmeter? Where connected?
3. Lead oxide is a very poor conductor. Did you wire brush both battery terminals and connectors?
4.Did you connect the battery charger/maintainer directly to the battery terminals? if not, where?
5. Did you wiggle, seat the battery charger/maintainer clip connections to assure a good connection?
6. Try removing the battery terminal connectors and connect the charger/maintainer to the battery only, without connection to the vehicle.
7. When "fully charged", remove the charger, check the voltage, lock the vehicle and check the battery voltage 24 hours later. What is the voltage?

PS: Age of battery and condition of battery are not necessarily related.

Let us know how you achieve a solution.

 

Charger: Schumacher
50 amp Engine starter
10 amp booster
6<>2 charge maintainer
Measuring voltage: pressing pins on my tPi volt- Ohm meter to the battery posts
Battery charger clip/connectors: Positive connector clipped to post accessed by removal of the panel on the left side of the vehicle.
Negative connector clipped to post on the right side of the vehicle.
BTW, I've been doing this regularly for years. I don't drive the car much, and not always far enough to fully charge the battery. Periodically, I'd notice slower cranking when starting
after not having driven very much. That's when I'd put it on the charger. The charger displays "charging" for a day or so, then it diplays "charging/maintaining," and finally "maintaining.
At that point I'd disconnect the charger and all was well for quite sometime.

I did not do steps 6 & 7.

Regarding battery life, as I recall lead/acid battery voltage declines because the charge/discharge cycles cause the bottom edge of the plates to disintegrate. The particles accumulate
at the bottom and eventually lessens the post voltage... or something like that. Also, driving on rough roads causes this weakening to accelerate.

Regarding the path forward, I'm going to assume that the battery needs to me replaced. I'm not strong enough to remove the battery and tack it back to Firestone store, so I'll call the AAA.

I much appreciate your comments, as well as those of others in this forum.

Ed

 

Good job Ed.

Though your battery may have read 12.5v immediately after charging, you are actually reading the "residual charge". After 6 hours I suspect the charge will be about 12.3 or so, which is insufficient.

Being you witnessed the effects of an underperforming battery, I'm hopeful for you there are not any residual effects stored in any of the modules. This would be easily corrected by disconnecting the leads from the battery, then touching the leads together. Connect it all up then go for that fun drive.

Incidentally, rarely are new batteries fully charged when purchased. During that period where it is disconnected, take the opportunity to fully charge it.

Cheers

 

Following advice of several XK/XKR Forum members, I called AAA. Within an hour a local AAA service provider arrived with a new battery. He went through the same basic steps I had been following, i.e., measuring voltage at the battery posts with point-tips on his tester. Voltage was within range. Then he did a couple other tests and said "There's nothing wrong with this battery."

Then he told me to get in and try to start it. I dutifully got in and did as he said. Same old same old. The gear shifting post did not pop up.

He asked me to pump the brake pedal a couple times, then hold it down firmly. Then he told me to press the Start button. It didn't work.

He then asked for the key fob. He clicked the Unlock button a couple times in rapid succession, then held it down for a few seconds. Then he said "try the Start button now." Lo & behold, it immediately roared to life!

He loaded his gear into his truck and told me to take it for a "spirited drive," which I happily did!

Note: I think my description of the process above is correct, but my short-term memory isn't what it used to be. I will have to try it a few times to be sure

Ed

 

So,,,,

in a nutshell it probably wasn't the battery....

 

Did the AAA tech use Memory Holder equipment to avoid all the Self-Test fiasco? Maybe a Hard Reset could have helped.

 

I agree........

but a new battery is still OK...but money spent where not needed...

 

Perhaps he did have a memory holder. He was very well equipped.
From what I've read, Hard Reset probably would have worked. However, my judgement is that it would have been overkill--- the nuclear option. What the AAA tech was very simple and harmless.

I want to add that I was extremely surprised and impressed with how much experience with Jaguars this tech was. AAA uses local service providers and chose one that had Jaguar experience.

Once again, thanks to all who have participated in this discussion.

Ed

 

@jag_man653 Ed,
I apologize if my suggestions did not reflect your level of experience.
Forum members run the gamut of experience. You never know how much detail to offer.
If you had cleaned the battery terminals, you would have inadvertently reset the security system, and we might have thought dirty terminals were the cause.
I am amazed that AAA (I'm a member) sent such a competent tech and not just a parts changer.
Too often, the battery would have been replaced, and you would have been on your way with an erroneous resolution.
Thanks for telling us about your experience.