The headlamp assemblies are replacements and not that old nor have much use. For some time occasionally I've had a MIL for AFS though all functions have always worked as they should, cornering lights, leveling, etc. The MIL always goes away as quickly as it appears and it's certainly not been any sort of priority.

However last night I went to a car show and when I started the car at my house, the headlamps were cross-eyed but no MIL, and the cornering lights were also not working. This behavior persisted for the entire night.

Today I decided to have a look and started up the car. This time only the LH side pointed correctly although neither cornering lamp would come on. I unplugged the harness for the RH, but that made no difference. I removed the individual RH and LH fuses and no difference, I removed the VAPS/AFS fuse and the lenses returned to what appeared to be their correct positions, replaced the fuse and back to crossed eyes. I then removed the individual fuses again and the VAPS/AFS fuse and the lenses corrected themselves. I then replaced the VAPS/AFS fuse and did not replace the LH/RH fuses and the lenses continued to remain in their "correct positions for the remainder of the night.

Cornering lights are still not working and when I say "correct" I mean visually but the beam patterns are off, the LH is pointing too low and the RH is pointing too high despite the lenses appearing to be properly centered. I've run a basic scan and no DTCs whatsoever. I've not run any SDD routines yet. I still have the original 2008 headlamps in working order and I may swap with those to see what happens.

 

Suggesting doing SDD routine for headlights calibration. You will see if they move up and down / left and right.

AFS is sort of weird. I cannot activate it in my car after a facelift lights retrofit (having a new headlamps module and new wiring for LIN). Routine I mentioned is moving one lamp or both lamps - as it likes in a given moment...

 

From the Workshop manual, pg 2852 of 4000:
Illumination of the warning indicator does not necessarily mean that there is a fault with the AFS system. The fault may be caused by a failure of another system preventing the AFS system from operating correctly.
The AFS control module performs a diagnostic routine every time AFS is requested. If any fault is found, the AFS control module will suspend the operation of the AFS function.
If the AFS leveling system has failed with the projector module in a position other than the correct straight ahead position, the AFS control module will attempt to drive the projector module to a position a small amount lower than the standard position. If the swivel function has failed, the AFS control module will lower the projector module using the leveling actuator to a position much lower than standard to prevent excess glare to oncoming vehicles.
The AFS control module software can detect an internal failure of the control module control circuits. The control module will power the projector modules to the zero position and prevent further operation.
Faults can be investigated by interrogating the AFS control module using an approved Jaguar diagnostic system to check for fault codes.

So…. humour me. When is the last time you performed a system reset? Our cars do benefit from this on a periodic basis… call ita feature.

 

My 2010 XKR exhibits the same behavior as yours. Cross-eyed much of the time at night and usually without a flashing warning (though lately I've been getting the warning in the daytime without the lights on). Typically, if I stop the car, shut it off and cycle through locking and unlocking the doors three or four times, it will return to normal so that I can see where I'm going to get home. Occasionally, I will have to go out and slap the headlights a couple of times, followed by locking and unlockng the doors a couple of times, and then it returns to normal. I just limit my night driving.

 

Good morning,

I get from time to time the MIL for the adaptive lighting on my 2010 XKR. My fix (a little unorthodox) that at least works for me every time - turn off the car, go to the front of the car, and with the palm of your hand give each headlight a few slaps on top (not too forceful). On my car, it works every time. The MIL goes away on the next start. Hope this works for others.

 

Attempted a calibration routine and immediately received a Headlamp Module communication failure. Ran diagnostics and came back with RH headlamp leveling motor failure. Have to dig the old assemblies out of storage.

And no this is not an intermittent issue, 3 days in a row non-stop.

 

Been down this path .

I had issues with the internal wiring of the headlight (frail wires to the internal motor)
lense was removed then broken wires re-soldered

To get you out of trouble if you haven't got time to mend the wiring at the moment pull the fuse to the headlight motor and you can manually adjust the headlight beam up&down /left to right that way you'll still be able to get around at night

 

I've not had it apart but I'd be shocked if the wires were damaged as it's had little use and the insulation problem is due to heat, not age. Compared to the originals fitted which have no wire insulation issues yet and many more miles and use.

I could care less about the AFS and in CCF there's an option to select fitted/not fitted so may have a try with that as well.

 

That is also my approach, but bear in mind doing it when it's not a cross-eyed cat Otherwise, at night, drivers on the opposite side of a road will not love you too much

 

It will default to cross eye however you can adjust them quite easily (two adjustments)

I had the other motor fail again and had them turned off in SDD

 

True, but manual adjustment is (I believe) limited. I was not able to move lenses that much, when it stuck pointing far left (shooting straight into drivers on the other lane…)

 

Odd yes whilst the adjustments is fairly limited as you stated it should be identical to the original movement that is when the motor was operating it.

tmich I'm wondering if there was something impeding (rust, dirt,corrosion) baked on the.worm gearing preventing the maximum adjustments hmmm

 

you caused me to go look at mine. That insulation on the wires is clearly been affected by heat and age??
Looking at the schematic, it stands to reason a short of the motor…

I hadn’t done it to this car, but I did use liquid electrical tape (found at any marine store) liberally on all wire ingress points I could find on the other cars. For a different reason…. I like a washed down engine compartment. I might start performing this preemptive maintenance solution on this car.
​​​​​​…. starting with the lights.

 

Mine did this and was acting like it had this problem when it was simple as opening the passenger side door and closing it...I mean literally and it actually fixed everything and stopped it from all the glitches just by opening and closing the passenger door.I believe some kind of sensor needs to be refreshed or something to reset everything back correctly.If I were you,I would Just go around your jag and open every door,hood,trunk,etc. and shut it all back tightly and see if that fixes anything

 

Yes some of you are lucky but I as stated previously the factory diagnostics can't even communicate with the module and the failure is indicated as a bad motor.

 

Since I'm able to uncross them by removing fuses and you say you were successful with a CCF edit, then perhaps the solution is that. I'm still going to try the originals since I've got them still and at least have a look inside the new ones. (Although as I'm writing this, if they do cross/un-cross themselves wouldn't that indicate the motor is working?)

 

Refitted the original 14-year old headlamp and all issues sorted so decided to swap AFS modules. The new one's only been in use about 4 years and a couple thousand miles, new modules are plastic, not metal as the original. All wires inside the failed headlamp look brand new and soft as expected. Old metal working module fitted and now headlamps working correctly. Still have the blinking AFS though, not certain if I need to run the new module routine as both of these have already been in this car.

 

ECU probably only remembers the last unit fitted, so it no longer recognizes your older module.

 

But it's working as it is with out running the routine, in fact when I fitted the new headlamps 4 years ago I didn't run the routine.

 

Well i just gave you a heads up if the adaptive lights icon blinking,the traction control light comes on,that can be fixed by as simple as opening 1 of the doors and closing it😬