At the autozone - is this the right stuff?
#21
As you’ve got the 5.0 litre and if you’ve never had to replace a coolant pipe, you’re doing well. I’ve had them fail
after 3 years. Parts aren’t that expensive and some can be done with basic tools. Consider it the cost of ownership after 10+ years.
Could be rear crossover, front crossover, water pump, thermostat, oil cooler pipe, or others.
after 3 years. Parts aren’t that expensive and some can be done with basic tools. Consider it the cost of ownership after 10+ years.
Could be rear crossover, front crossover, water pump, thermostat, oil cooler pipe, or others.
#22
You definitely have a leak somewhere. I recently replaced my rear crossover, thermostat, water pump and upper radiator hose just after buying the car (only as a precaution because of recommendations from other owners on this forum) and headed out on a 4,000 mile trip, only to find that the reservoir was losing 4 to 6 ounces of coolant per driving day (150-350 miles). I bought a gallon of coolant along the way and filled the reservoir every morning; never got a warning. Could not locate the leak until after the trip when I "borrowed" a pressure tester from my local parts store and found that it was the brand new hose that was leaking slightly in a banded seam. The leak was on the backside of the new hose and could not be seen, and nothing was dripping under the car. I put in a warranty claim on the hose and was waiting for a replacement to arrive when this one let go altogether and I had to have the car towed back to my house. Luckily, I was monitoring the water temp on the freeway via cell phone app and an OBDII reader, and pulled over to the side of the road when the temperature jumped up and set off an alarm, just as my low coolant warning lit up. Normal operating temp for both my 2010 XK and my 2005 XK8 is between 194 degrees F and 205 F (90 C - 96 C); I set my app to warn me at 215 F (101.7 C) as I have seen both of my Jags only go up that high when climbing long hills between Las Vegas and Los Angeles in the summer, (well below 245 F (118 degrees C), which would probably be catastrophic). Engine temp only reached 217 F before I shut the engine off but it rose so fast I could have destroyed it in just a couple of more minutes. It's running fine now with no issues, thanks for wondering...
Borrow (buy and return) a pressure checker from a local auto parts store (my local AutoZone takes a deposit by selling you the kit/tool then refunds 100% of your money when you bring the kit or tools back), fill the coolant tank, and pressure up to see if you can locate the leak. Alternatively, fill the coolant reservoir tank up to the max mark, start the car, drive around just enough to heat things up, then stop, open the hood, and see/listen if the leak is revealing itself. Be sure to carry some extra coolant with you and don't drive the car very far until you resolve this; it goes without saying that the cost of an engine replacement is much, much more than the value of the whole car these days...
Borrow (buy and return) a pressure checker from a local auto parts store (my local AutoZone takes a deposit by selling you the kit/tool then refunds 100% of your money when you bring the kit or tools back), fill the coolant tank, and pressure up to see if you can locate the leak. Alternatively, fill the coolant reservoir tank up to the max mark, start the car, drive around just enough to heat things up, then stop, open the hood, and see/listen if the leak is revealing itself. Be sure to carry some extra coolant with you and don't drive the car very far until you resolve this; it goes without saying that the cost of an engine replacement is much, much more than the value of the whole car these days...
Last edited by Redline; 10-05-2021 at 07:51 PM.
#23
#24
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pk4144 (10-11-2021)
#25
I don't recall if you can get a bore scope under the SC at the rear to confirm.
#26
#27
For my '07 4.2 NA, the Service Manual's spec is WSS M97B44-D. See below.
Even Ford didn't have a specific matching fluid anymore, though I see redline's comment above that Orange Dexcool also meets the spec.
So after a long search, I found one the that specifically lists this spec.
It's Peak OEM Orange for North American Vehicles.
The spec is not on the bottle, but is in the spec sheet: https://asset.productmarketingcloud....9-b668fbb36660
On page 2, top. About $20 or so. May not be on the shelf at your local parts store.
Since it matches the spec (and for what it's worth) the color, I've been using it.
Again, the 4.2 naturally aspirated original Ford spec. Other engines, other specs, perhaps.
Panthera
Even Ford didn't have a specific matching fluid anymore, though I see redline's comment above that Orange Dexcool also meets the spec.
So after a long search, I found one the that specifically lists this spec.
It's Peak OEM Orange for North American Vehicles.
The spec is not on the bottle, but is in the spec sheet: https://asset.productmarketingcloud....9-b668fbb36660
On page 2, top. About $20 or so. May not be on the shelf at your local parts store.
Since it matches the spec (and for what it's worth) the color, I've been using it.
Again, the 4.2 naturally aspirated original Ford spec. Other engines, other specs, perhaps.
Panthera
Last edited by panthera999; 10-07-2021 at 10:13 AM.
#28
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Naperville, Illinois USA
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Nothing special, just a coolant hose. Be sure to check that nipple on the reservoir, as that plastic ages and is known to crack (I keep a spare, as it’s likely to happen some day).
#29
There is a butt connector between two parts of the hose. It's some crappy plastic/compressed fiber thing that crumbles after a number of years and the hose sections separate. I replaced the connector on mine with a brass fitting and hose clamps. Works fine.
#30
Water top off
Got the feared “COOLANT LEVEL LOW” red warning light this morning (strangely, it went away after a minute of driving). Since it’s Sunday, autozone is my only option.
move heard of green and orange, but pink coolant? Is this correct, or do I wait a day and go to a jag parts department for this? Is there some kind of unobtanium in our antifreeze?
thanks...
move heard of green and orange, but pink coolant? Is this correct, or do I wait a day and go to a jag parts department for this? Is there some kind of unobtanium in our antifreeze?
thanks...
#31
Red coolant light
I had that happen. The first time it happened I added a small amt of water, maybe a cup. Next time I drove it the rad light came on again. Looked in filler and it was down about a cup. I didn't add anything and the next few times I drove it the red light came on again, but the coolant temp on the gauge didn't change and on observation, it was still down about a cup. My wrench friend says there is a sensor like a gas tank sensor that goes up and down and sticks, Ergo it must be replaced but isn't an urgent issue
#32
slack too.
#35
#36
#37
Likely rear crossover manifold as I said previously. Part is cheap, just tons of labour. And everything else I said before. ALL pipes, hoses and supercharger isolator. Parts are cheap, and you don’t want to have to pay another $1500 or so for labor to do the job all over again for another failed part. Been there, when tech swore I didn’t need to….I needed, again.
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pk4144 (10-12-2021)
#38
I actually think it's this. (Which may also be the valley pipe...?)
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...QaAgabEALw_wcB
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...QaAgabEALw_wcB
#39
Likely rear crossover manifold as I said previously. Part is cheap, just tons of labour. And everything else I said before. ALL pipes, hoses and supercharger isolator. Parts are cheap, and you don’t want to have to pay another $1500 or so for labor to do the job all over again for another failed part. Been there, when tech swore I didn’t need to….I needed, again.
#40