Just had my rear brake pads replaced and have a question. I was told that the pads are really expensive, $285 just for the rear. Anybody know why these things are so expensive?

 

Hopefully that includes installation and a hefty profit margin. My new EBC ceramic rear pads were only $130 and OEM semi-metal are available for less than $50. There is a limited market for Jaquar brake pads so there is some increased cost.

 

A set of OEM 2010 XKR rear brake pads lists fir $139. Add your dealer's labor rate ($150/hr.?) ...
https://jaguarmerriamparts.com/parts...E%20COMPONENTS

 

You can get a set of Jaguar factory rear pads, P/N C2D3792, for a 2010 XKR for $102.58 from JLR in Reno. Jaguar's list retail price for those pads is $180.70. https://tinyurl.com/yaws8rug

Or you can get OEM replacement semi-metallic pads, with lifetime warranty, from Autozone for $35.00.

 

I usually use OE Jaguar parts BUT the exception is brake pads where the markup by Jaguar is outrageous.

Graham

 

Are the OEM pads on the 2010 Semi-metalic?!

I replaced my OEM pads with ceramic, thinking this was
an upgrade. but Semi-mettalic has better stopping power

can someone confirm what the OEM pads are?

thanks

 

They would be considered a premium semi-metallic material. Ceramic are great at not producing as much visible dust and have been OEM material on most new cars produced but their performance is greatly reduced compared to other materials. Jag pads have always been known to produce excessive amounts of dust, quietly and effectively. My VW came with ceramic from the factory but I switched to organic, cheap, effective, no noise, low rotor wear & not much dust. The XKR has track pads fitted, they are quiet, no fade but produce tons of dust.

 

I've been going to this guy for years and this is the first time, I left feeling like I got taken.Rear brake pads (no machining of rotors), synthetic oil change for $675. Hmm?

 

Unfortunately I think it sounds about right. My dealer gets $190 for an oil/filter change. so depending on what that cost is for your guy it leaves around $480 or $240 per wheel . So being you go a pad slap only with say $100 for pads that woulds mean about $190 per wheel .

 

You guys must be made out of money. Any reliable repair shop will do what is considered basic maintenance. Oil in example must by federal law, at least in the US, meet ASA Standards. Any brand of oil marked "Meets or exceeds new car warrantee requirements" will be sufficient for all the engine needs. Same for air and oil filters, and break parts.

 

If you have the necessary equipment and tools, you can perform both operations yourself.

 

I'm at the point in my life where I don't mind paying for maintenance services I don't feel like doing. I've serviced my own cars and others for over 55 years and still will do some work on my wife's old Volvo. I don't service my truck yet but might in the future. As for my Lexus I'll do oil changes but depending how I feel I'll do other repairs. So for the Jag I'm just building a service record . At this time in my life my time is more valuable then the $150 +/- hourly rate of a dealer or indy.

 

I think often it is easy to forget the operating costs for a brick and mortar business and even more so for a franchised dealer. If you have the expertise, equipment and time then of course DIY is going to cost less

 

Pretty much agree and I find the biggest area that DIY types forget is the cost of their time. Then no one considers their costs in sq. ft. of their repair space and then their tools. Also is the time to complete the job compared to the standard book times. Don't get me wrong as I have done tons of work at home and thought I was saving money but it was all at a cost of time. Then again the enjoyment and satisfaction of doing the job yourself until your wife tells you she needs the car in 20 minutes .

 

Bring your own oil & filter to a Jiffy Lube and they'll change it for $25. $25-30 for a 5-quart bottle and $10 each for the other 2+ quarts. That's $80 all-in with the correct oil.
Brake 'job' is about $50 per wheel for a pad slap. At minimum, a light hone would be required on the rotors, watching the minimum measurements. That'd be an additional $15 or so each.
Add incidentals, about a buck-and-a-half. ($150)
Total for oil and brake pad slap, $250 max. Added cost for better pads, full hone, rotor replacement and so-on. Jiffy Lube will still do their multi-point inspection. Not Jag Specific, of course...

 

Where do you get the correct Ford WSS-M2C925 spec oil for $30 for a 5 quart bottle?

 

That is what I do on oil changes. Except I usually go to "5 minute oil change" instead of Jiffy Lube. Still $25 if you bring your own oil/filter. Way worth it rather than doing it myself - getting out the jack, getting under the car, disposing of oil, etc, etc.


I typically do my own brakes, but have not yet on the Jag. Get the brake pads at Autozone, and never pay for them again with the lifetime warranty. Get Duralast Gold, much better than Duralast which tend to squeal and eat through rotors. Sounds like I will need to get a new brake tool to work on the Jag brakes. Typically if I need to get some sort of new tool, it still costs less than having it done by someone else, and then I have a new tool for the next time...

 

Cheapest that I found the jag specified correct Castrol for the 5L was from a local Land rover dealer. Cost just shy of $9 qt. No need to restart the "correct" oil thread again though. Just google elsewhere in the threads for a lot of discussion.

 

Walmart.
Castrol Edge

 

That oil is NOT WSS-M2C925 spec oil. According to the specs, Castrol and Mobil 1 there ARE differences between the M2C925 and M2C930 and M2C945 oils. The higher numbers do NOT supercede the lower numbers.