Hello.
One of the cars I'm considering buying has 5mm left on rear pads. How many miles before I would be concerned. Or should I just plan on doing them when I get the car? My driving will be weekends, very little stop and go. Mostly moderate speeds (45 to 70). Your best guesses? And should I allow 1200 to 1500 for complete rear brake service? Any input would be appreciated.
Cheers!

 

I'd not go below 3mm, ever. $1200-1500 is a crap-ton of money unless you buy new calipers as well as the rotors and pads with a full flush. Nearly NO one needs new calipers unless there is damage. You can do the job yourself well under that exorbitant cost. If the rotors are still within spec, you could pad-slap for under $100, but it'd be better to get the rotors at least scuffed.

 

Thanks, CeeJay.
I was just doing a disaster case scenario. I figured 3mm was about it for pads. The service records show 6mm at just 2500 miles prior. That little wear in 2500 miles shows the car hasn't been abused, i think. If I decide to do any DIY on whatever car I get, I will lean heavily on the forum to guide me. Hopefully I'll get a car I can enjoy a little before I need help. Cheers to all!

 

I checked my Tyre & Brake log to confirm the original thickness of the rear pads is 10mm so on the vehicle you are considering they are 50% worn. I usually buy replacements when pads get down to 4.0mm and fit them at the first convenient opportunity.





As a general rule, I find I wear out two sets of rear pads to each set of fronts and they lose 2-3mm between services. However, this is very dependent on roads and driving style.

Graham

 

Rear pads are on my list for within a year. Am I correct in going for daily driver pads that are ceramic?
I will avoid semi-metallic, for being aggressive and cheap. (taxi grade). I have had success with Centric ceramic pads for being very good, clean and low cost.

 

Thank you, Graham. Keeping a log is a good idea. My past experience with high performance cars confirms your 2 to 1 ratio of front/rear replacement. If I end up getting the car with 5mm on the rears, I should be able to enjoy the car for a little while before attempting replacement. Cheers.

 

I had good luck with the OEM pads (not too much dust). On the VDP I tried ceramic Akebono's. Even less dust, but lacked initial bite.

 

I'd plan to get it done ASAP. Not worth eking the last couple of millimeters out of them vs the potential to hose up something more expensive.

 

I'm not planning any cross country tours, just putting a few miles on and getting familiar with the car. If the rotors are still in good shape, it'll just be pads. The car will be delivered this weekend. Cheers.

 

I gave you what you asked for - an opinion. Looks like you want someone to tell you its fine - go for it then!

 

LOL! I'm sorry. For a brief moment I forgot that your opinion is so much more valid than anyone else's. But when I said "a few miles", I meant 2 or 3 hundred, and not all at once. I want to shake down the car and see if there is anything else I want attended to. If I use up more than 2mm in that time or if I score the rotors, I will let you know so you can say I told you so. Cheers.

 

It should take many miles for another 2 mm or so to wear down, as long as you are not driving on the limits of the DSC or no caliper is binding

The front pads are originally from Jurid and are very good (look for 310 GG marked on the back). Not easy to find alternatives with an equivalent high coefficient of friction. Standard pads feel worse. Boutique pads are also expensive and probably no better.

The rears are FF grade ATE. Perfectly good. I found some GG grade Ferodos (FDB5014 - top grade pad often at very basic prices in Germany) and gave them a go, out of interest and not need. Rear pad differences are not so easy to assess but overall initial bite seems better. Certainly no worse than the ATE pads, so could be an option when you come to change.

 

Thanks for your reasoned response and the tip on alternate pads. I now have to make the decision to try doing them myself or go to a shop. I'm hesitant because I'm not sure how the e-brake may complicate the procedure. I'll do more research. First, I need to determine if my limited tool selection is adequate or if I need to purchase tools for the job.
Cheers.

 

The E-brake is a big nothing. All you do is NOT set it when you last park. Yes, there is a procedure to set/release/reset the E-brake, but it's really not necessary unless you do something else, like new different rotors or something. Replacing the E-brake pads would also be a time to do it. But, who ever changes those?

 

I want to change the rear rotors - I'll have to look into how to disentangle the e-brake.

 

Try putting them on first, the only problem you would run into is if the interior 'hat' was machined too small on the new rotors, but I've never heard of that yet. I've had my car for over ten years, I've never had to mess with the e-brake for the rotor swap. Just "off".

 

I was thinking the rotors would/might slip out from the e-brake.

 

That lip/ridge is quite deep:

 

The 2009 - 2015 XKR has the exact same brakes as were on my 2010 XFR, I changed the rear rotors once and rear pads twice, and never once had the slightest problem with the e-brake. As Cee Jay says simply make sure it is "off" when you start the job.
Also there seems to be some confusion about separate pads for the e-brake, there are no separate pads the e-brake simply applies the normal service brakes.
Except for those few cars equipped with the carbon ceramic brake rotors, those do have separate e-brake calipers and pads.

 

I knew that, just brain farted. My bad.