I have a 2010 XK (convertible) and needed to change my pads. I can find a lot of XF's changing pads/rotors procedures and they all say 7mm Hex tool to take the calibers off. Mine is not 7mm... too much play. Do they make different size caliber screws/bolts for different models? Another I read is to disconnect the negative battery terminal before you start so the system would know the proper setting/depth on the new pads. Correct?

 

Are you attempting to remove the front or rear brake pads?

Refer to the Workshop Manual for the X150 for the correct procedure. If you don't have the Workshop Manual, you can download it here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t0smg1gsrv...kshop.pdf?dl=0

 

I pay a mobile mechanic to do mine, he charged £30/$39 for front and rears on my X100 and I supplied the pads, he even changed my winter tyres back to my Summers for me

Can't imagine he's charge me anymore for the X150

Don't you guys stateside have such things as reasonably price mobile mechanics?

This time around the specialist that installed my wortec discs installed my red stuff pads for free

 

No, we don't have mobile mechanics. Maybe a new business idea?

I just changed my pads. Used Akebono ceramic pads. Easy job. I also bought a piston retracing kit since the back calipers need to be turned while retracting the piston. I always used a C clamp on all my other cars, but none needed to be rotated while retracting. The 7 mm hex was correct for mine.

 

NBCat - I was planning on doing front and the back pads and the brake sensors (since I got a Low Pad warning).

 

We have a few mobile mechanics in the Houston area but you learn about them on the 6:00 news.

 

 

Why would you do this unless you are changing the brake fluid? I have never done this, but maybe I should?

 

Doing the above gets rid of the old fluid inside the caliper cylinders. Topping off the Master Cylinder may be required with this method, but it'd be fresh fluid.
Clamping the flex line prevents the old fluid from getting pushed back into the Master Cylinder.
IF the MC is already at capacity and the caliper cylinders are compressed, then the MC will be over-full.

Best to let the old fluid squirt out the bleed hole and add fresh to the Master. Still requires a bleed after installation though.

 

 

Thanks. Learned something new. It'll have to wait til next time, since I just did mine.

 

If you have a Low Pad warning, the wear sensors will also need to be replaced. The JLR part number is C2P17004 for the front wear sensor and C2D2976 for the rear on normally aspirated 5.0 litre cars.

Always check parts fitment against your vehicle's VIN prior to ordering.

Use the correct tools for retracting the rear caliper pistons such as this example on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-22PCS-U...b215:rk:1:pf:0