The top SHOULD be in the Up position. If you can't do that TO raise the top, raise it anyway manually. If THAT is not possible, then do what you gotta do.
PROCEDURE:
Window already up; Hold DOWN button for three seconds past Full Down. Release button, hold DOWN again for another three seconds. Hold UP until three seconds past Full Up. Release button, hold UP for another three seconds.
Window already down; Reverse above procedure.

 

I assume you do this to each window, separately, one at a time? Or do can you do both windows simultaneously using the driver's side switches?

 

As always, thanks for useful info. This has indeed been a learning experience.

Other things that may offer clues:
- I've owned the car for five years, and have put about 60K miles on it (those cross-country round trips REALLY put on the miles). This is the first time I've ever had any issues with the top.
- I just drove across the country, never lowered the top (car full o' stuff); hadn't lowered it for a few weeks prior to that. So it had been about a month. I had a few errands to run in town, and one time when I started the car up (had left the top down), got the "HOOD NOT LATCHED" red triangle. Now, of course, I'm thinking "...I havent touched the hood in weeks?" So I open and close the "bonnet" a few times and realize that's not what the error message is about. Got home and tried to close the top and that's when it got close but wouldn't close, and I had my aha about that being a convertible top message. Point is, I did NOT have the red triangle when I started the car that AM; it came on when I started up after having been in a store for a few minutes.
- the battery is about a year and a half old. It's a Bosch (wet cell) from Pep Boys. Had to jump it once last summer (also, oddly, about a week after a x-country drive), and on this drive had a funky thing where I could not access the climate control screen. Started the car the next day and that was gone.

So I'm 98% certain this is either A) a battery issue (which is what I hope) or B) a control module issue.

I've actually had to have a control module reflashed (for the friggin' license plate lights, of all things). Thought the dealer was trying to rip me off but it fixed the problem (yes the bulbs were fine) and it hasn't returned.

So, yeah, I'm going to get the codes read. Does it make sense to go to some place and have them do a deep recharge of the battery and see if that helps?

 

I never thought about that. I do one at a time, but I see no reason both can't be done simultaneously, although it would be more difficult to hear the very soft "tuk" sound the relays make.

 

@pk4144 Do you know where the modules for the roof are? I'm trying to find them

 

I don't. That's my threshold of "hire someone else."

 

Deleted...double post.

 

They must be behind the back seats. That's where one installs Steve's remote top module which taps in the the existing wires. You may want to go to his website and look at the installation manual. The manual might offer some clues by chasing the wires.

 

Not sure if this will help, but have a look here to see what my mechanic did to solve my top issue...


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...nction-230988/

 

Yes I read this! I will say to those reading that SOMETIMES a hard reset - which I have done - helps, but it's not at all the same as what you had done. I am sure that a hard reset would not have solved your problem. Your money spent was not wasted.

 

Yes, my mechanic reset the module itself, on the bench, after removal from the car.

 

I had a 2007 Jaguar XKR that get stuck like that and I had to close it the "Ghetto" way before I was able to get it fixed.When it gets stuck in that position and won't fully close,What i did was reached my arm out the window and pulled down on the top while holding the convertible top"up" button to close the Convertible top and fortunately it realized the closing position force I was putting on it to recognize that I wanted it to close and so it did.But it was to the point where I tried every trick like using the allen wrench to turn the pump and just nothing was working to fix it.So long story short,I eventually took it to the Jaguar dealership and they fixed it for me for $100 bucks cause won't too much wrong with it they said,and all they told me they did was a reset on it(well you know they did a professional oem reset on it,NOT just any old reset cause I swear I tried all of those.) and they told me I had the pump turned too much or something.But how my jags roof had messed up is all because the battery was sort of low and it makes the car act funny when all it needed was a little charge to make it work properly again

 

So took the car to a place called Motorcars Incorporated a little west of Hartford CT. Guys worked on it for an hour, called and said "it's fixed!"
Top was indeed up and rear windows were up too.
It was a nice day, so after a few miles of driving, I pulled over and lowered the top (engine on the whole time). Went down, rear windows went down, all that. Pulled back on the road, and in like a minute the light went on: HOOD NOT LATCHED.
I reached out to them. They guided me to page 111 of the owner's manual. (Really, guys? Really?) Oh, and suggested it may be the battery. Which was the first thing I'd mentioned. I asked them if they checked the battery, no response.
$130 down the drain. On to a Jag dealership.... anyone know if Hartford or Albany is better?

(Oh and the top is in the fully down position now, I haven't tried to close it. I fear doing that now.)

 

Perhaps too late, as i enter this.......So, when you arrive at Jag dealer and provide them the history, would the next step be to "raise" the top to determine if it latches correctly? I can understand nbeing gun-shy at this point, given what you've experienced.

 

SOO....
After the last update, I was thinking about WhiteXKR's observation that the "reset" process on this needs to begin in the top-fully-down position. Intuitively, that makes sense, since the warning seems to indicate that the car thinks the top's not latched.
Since the top IS fully down, I thought I'd take the chance on closing it to see what happens.
Plus a friend was here, so if I had to go the manual-top-lowering route, I had the extra pair of hands.
I raised the top. Same thing: everything worked until one inch away from closing. HOOD NOT LATCHED warning remained. (It never goes off)
I grabbed my friend, not a car guy, fully prepared to manually lower the almost-closed top and try to use the button to close it again from the fully top-down position.
My friend, not a car guy, suggested "why don't you try it one more time?"
Sure, why not. Lowered the top, it went all the way down. Still had the hated "HOOD NOT LATCHED" red triangle.
Pressed the button to close the top AND THIS TIME IT WORKED. ALL THE WAY. Side windows, everything. And the hated HOOD NOT LATCHED was gone.

So.... now what?
Drive it as a coupe til I'm back in LA and can get to my regular service center?
Chance lowering it again?
Take it to a Jag dealer here?
Replace the battery?

I'm at a loss but really don't want to go through all that again, if possible.

 

My money would be that it is all OK now. If your battery is over 3 years old and especially if it is not an AGM type a new battery would be good insurance against a myriad of issues.

If you do change the battery though, do not forget to do a few window resets with the window both up and down. before operating the top again.

 

The fact this top stops just shy of the connecting and latching position, seems to indicate, whatever, device triggers the top is in position and ready to be latched is a culprit. Perhaps "WhiteXKR" can weigh in on the mechanics of the steps our top goes through in opening and closing.
What would happen if the cover in the trunk (the one that covers the battery and needs to be in the correct position), came loose, some how?

 

The closing procedure seems to be performed in multiple processes. When the top approaches the windshield in pauses about 5 inches from the windshield header and a latching process is initiated to close/latch the top to the header above the windshield. Could a sensor or the latching mechanism be the problem? One would think an error code would be thrown. Steve is your man.

 

Hi PK, that cable does work to close the flaps....mine broke off as well, and although the roof remained operational, it was making an ugly snapping, cracking noise on operation. Fixed that cable before I had any troubles, and all works 100%.

 

Now wait a minute here....... could all this be caused because the actual TOP is too tight to close far enough for the latch pawls to engage the top because it is too far away TO latch???