XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

CTEK and now problems after installation & use

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Old 01-31-2015, 12:22 PM
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Default CTEK and now problems after installation & use

I rarely drive my '10 XKR these days (moved to a small town where the car really "stick out") and recognized that I would start to have battery issues without a battery maintainer. I researched the threads on this forum and picked up a CTEK 3300 with extension.

NOTE: Car was working perfectly prior to next steps!
NOTE2: I have a CTEK charger for an even more rarely driven car with NO problems over the past 5 years of use!

I followed the instructions as repeatedly posted in various threads on this forum and via the Jaguar instructions. Interestingly, the only attachment stud I found in the wheel well had what looked to be the negative battery strap attached.
During the course of installation of the eyelet harness for the CTEK I noticed that the hazard lights came on and the car seemed to lose all electrical power and then came back on.
After installation I drove around the block to discover multiple yellow alerts (! with triangle symbol) on the dashboard display - all seemingly major systems. Wondering if this would clear with a fully charged battery and a restart, I attached the CTEK, locked the car, and walked away.
Over the next 2 days, the CTEK display went to "green" (appeared to be maintaining "properly").

Two weeks later I went to drive the car. CTEK displayed "green" prior to unplugging. Opened the door and car started to show normal signs when the door is opened - then it went 100% electrically "dead".

Now what?!?!?!?!

I do have AAA so I could get a jump start, but my dealership is >120mi away.
I believe I have sufficient towing coverage with AAA Plus to get the car hauled that distance, but I'd like to remove the CTEK prior to delivery to the dealership so I don't get blamed for causing all these issues. But, car is totally locked with the hatch super-securely closed.
Also, if it's just a battery that was at the end of it's life, I'd rather replace the battery myself (and get an Optima Red Top) than pay the horrible upcharge at the dealership.

Any and all suggestions are very welcome!
(Maybe I should be careful saying that on an internet forum...)
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 01:10 PM
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Are you saying that you removed/moved the Negative battery cable (attached directly to the battery) when doing the hook up or was it just another ground strap. Did you put a volt meter on the battery to see what is the present voltage.
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 01:23 PM
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My 2010 XKR 'sort of' did this before I got my battery maintainer. What I did was totally remove the battery from the car and use a 10 amp charger to fully charge the battery overnight. I reinstalled the battery, hooked up the maintainer and let it sit again until I got the green light. The car fired right up and I haven't had a problem since.
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jagtoes
Are you saying that you removed/moved the Negative battery cable (attached directly to the battery) when doing the hook up or was it just another ground strap. Did you put a volt meter on the battery to see what is the present voltage.
No. I did not touch the negative side of the battery directly.
The bolt I attached to in the top left side of the wheel well for the spare, which was approached following the Jaguar directions as shown in the .pdf. (JAF 0040 (10) - 1E (Battery Charger 2012MY).pdf)
There was a heavy cable attached at this bolt as well and was "undone" when I removed the bolt to add the eyelet.

No voltmeter available.
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by doctock993
I followed the instructions as repeatedly posted in various threads on this forum and via the Jaguar instructions. Interestingly, the only attachment stud I found in the wheel well had what looked to be the negative battery strap attached.
In the "wheel well"? That post wasn't inside the boot, left-rear corner and behind a plastic trim panel, was it???
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by doctock993
But, car is totally locked with the hatch super-securely closed.
Can't you just use the key (hidden inside the fob) to get the hatch open? In countries with wide number plates the lock is covered it but you should still have one.

Failing that, there is a +ve stud with a rubber cap on in the left rear wheel arch that you can use to power up the car.
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by doctock993
I rarely drive my '10 XKR these days (moved to a small town where the car really "stick out") and recognized that I would start to have battery issues without a battery maintainer. I researched the threads on this forum and picked up a CTEK 3300 with extension.

NOTE: Car was working perfectly prior to next steps!
NOTE2: I have a CTEK charger for an even more rarely driven car with NO problems over the past 5 years of use!

I followed the instructions as repeatedly posted in various threads on this forum and via the Jaguar instructions. Interestingly, the only attachment stud I found in the wheel well had what looked to be the negative battery strap attached.
During the course of installation of the eyelet harness for the CTEK I noticed that the hazard lights came on and the car seemed to lose all electrical power and then came back on.
After installation I drove around the block to discover multiple yellow alerts (! with triangle symbol) on the dashboard display - all seemingly major systems. Wondering if this would clear with a fully charged battery and a restart, I attached the CTEK, locked the car, and walked away.
Over the next 2 days, the CTEK display went to "green" (appeared to be maintaining "properly").

Two weeks later I went to drive the car. CTEK displayed "green" prior to unplugging. Opened the door and car started to show normal signs when the door is opened - then it went 100% electrically "dead".

Now what?!?!?!?!

I do have AAA so I could get a jump start, but my dealership is >120mi away.
I believe I have sufficient towing coverage with AAA Plus to get the car hauled that distance, but I'd like to remove the CTEK prior to delivery to the dealership so I don't get blamed for causing all these issues. But, car is totally locked with the hatch super-securely closed.
Also, if it's just a battery that was at the end of it's life, I'd rather replace the battery myself (and get an Optima Red Top) than pay the horrible upcharge at the dealership.

Any and all suggestions are very welcome!
(Maybe I should be careful saying that on an internet forum...)
If you get under the rear of the car, you don't need to jack it up, behind the left rear wheel under the bumper you will see a cable that disappears into the boot/trunk. There is a rubber over the nut that holds it on. This is the live coming from the battery, you can connect or jump start from here , connect your negative to the chassis . This will power up to get everything opened.

Then test your battery voltage, are you sure your connecting the charger properly, post a pic of your connections.
If you haven't put a new battery in for some time 3 years max, or it is the original, go and get an AGM battery and put it in before you go to the dealer, then you'll know it's not the battery.
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Cee Jay
In the "wheel well"? That post wasn't inside the boot, left-rear corner and behind a plastic trim panel, was it???
No - poor wording on my part! I meant the "spare tire wheel well"

I followed Page 6 JAF 0040 (10) - 1E (Battery Charger 2012MY) (3) (1).pdf of the .pdf provided by Jaguar for installation of the CTEK
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by doctock993
No - poor wording on my part! I meant the "spare tire wheel well"

I followed Attachment 105525 of the .pdf provided by Jaguar for installation of the CTEK


For all intensive purposes, any good ground that is conveniently located near the battery should be suitable for the CTEK negative lead. I found one in close proximity to the battery that worked out fine.
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:09 PM
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I had similar problems with my XJR6 left it on the same charger for 6 months under a cover in the garage

pulled it out 3 weeks ago went to start it dead nothing couldn't even get it out of gear

went down and bought a new battery sent the charger back under warranty sent them an email last week they are still looking at it wont be buying another one

may as well of let the battery die a natural death it would have been cheaper
 
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Old 02-01-2015, 07:34 AM
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Why not connect the negative lead on the ctek to the negative post on the battery?
 
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Old 02-01-2015, 08:05 AM
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Default Ctek Battery Attachment

Originally Posted by mosesbotbol
Why not connect the negative lead on the ctek to the negative post on the battery?
Thats what I did despite Jaguar suggestion. In the Ctek instructions I had they say attach to battery terminals.

The longest period my XJR has "rested" without power up so far is 3 weeks. This Winter it might break that as I do not take it out in salty road conditions.
 
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Old 02-01-2015, 08:30 AM
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Mine has been down now for over a month. My hook up is through the left trunk plastic grill using the large positive + post and a negative - stud mounted near the left tail light. I did not use the stud in the spare tire area as I checked the stud near the tail light and it was a suitable ground. I have a Sears smart charger which I used to use on my other fun car. It has been on GREEN since I put the car up on the lift for winter. We're due for snow again tomorrow so it looks like it will be another week or two before I take it down to start it up. It is interesting as to why Jaguar recommends hooking up the negative terminal to the stud but my bet is it is for safety . I think they want you to attach the ground away from the battery so that any potential spark won't cause the battery to explode (vapors) . If you have a sealed battery that should not be a concern but if you have a vented wet cell battery that could be an exposure. As far as up stream or down stream from the control module I don't think that is an issue. By the way for those who have the Torque Pro app take a look at the voltage before and after the Control Module (CM) as it is pretty surprising.
 
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Old 02-01-2015, 08:56 AM
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You wrote: "By the way for those who have the Torque Pro app take a look at the voltage before and after the Control Module (CM) as it is pretty surprising."


How do you do that? I do have the app.
Thanks!
 
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Old 02-01-2015, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by wrair
You wrote: "By the way for those who have the Torque Pro app take a look at the voltage before and after the Control Module (CM) as it is pretty surprising."


How do you do that? I do have the app.

Thanks!

I set one screen with Volts (AD) and Volts (CM) on the screen. Last week I had this on my GMC pick up and found the AD reading was at 16-17V at times while the CM reading was a steady 14V while driving.
 

Last edited by jagtoes; 02-01-2015 at 09:19 AM. Reason: More info
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Old 02-01-2015, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jagtoes
Mine has been down now for over a month. My hook up is through the left trunk plastic grill using the large positive + post and a negative - stud mounted near the left tail light. I did not use the stud in the spare tire area as I checked the stud near the tail light and it was a suitable ground. I have a Sears smart charger which I used to use on my other fun car. It has been on GREEN since I put the car up on the lift for winter. We're due for snow again tomorrow so it looks like it will be another week or two before I take it down to start it up. It is interesting as to why Jaguar recommends hooking up the negative terminal to the stud but my bet is it is for safety . I think they want you to attach the ground away from the battery so that any potential spark won't cause the battery to explode (vapors) . If you have a sealed battery that should not be a concern but if you have a vented wet cell battery that could be an exposure. As far as up stream or down stream from the control module I don't think that is an issue. By the way for those who have the Torque Pro app take a look at the voltage before and after the Control Module (CM) as it is pretty surprising.

The instructions for hooking up the negative lead to an outside ground was specific for 2010 XK+ models. It seems these models had a battery module installed and hooking directly to the battery interferes with it's functioning properly. I had it hooked directly to the battery initially and then changed once I heard of the Jaguar recommendation. Better safe than sorry, especially when there is still a warranty in place. So far no electrical issues other than my Ipod and USB not functioning properly with my music and that isn't the end of the world for me.
 
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Old 02-02-2015, 03:08 AM
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Rechecked with my Jag Dealer not Pentland. Spoke to the Service Manager and he confirmed should be no problem but checked with his Jag Techs and they confirmed there should be no problem connecting direct to battery terminals. They did emphasise you should not Jump Start through battery terminals. I am having no problems with my ctek charger to date. I may add I have had all my Jags serviced and repaired at this Dealer and had nothing but great service.
 
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:09 AM
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I connected my ctek right to the terminal posts, car sat for 3 months, and started like it sat for 2 days. Nothing to reset... Same on my Lotus; ctek worked brilliantly!
 
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Old 02-02-2015, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Jagst
Rechecked with my Jag Dealer not Pentland. Spoke to the Service Manager and he confirmed should be no problem but checked with his Jag Techs and they confirmed there should be no problem connecting direct to battery terminals. They did emphasise you should not Jump Start through battery terminals. I am having no problems with my ctek charger to date. I may add I have had all my Jags serviced and repaired at this Dealer and had nothing but great service.

Personally, With all the newer and sensitive electronics, I would not have any modern day car jump started.
 
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Old 02-02-2015, 06:16 PM
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I have had the CTEK charger connected directly to the battery terminals of my XK for almost 3 years. No problems of any kind with either the Jaguar or the CTEK unit.
 


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