I absolutely agree, though I am confident that cost comes first, followed by comfort and that performance comes in pretty close to the bottom as far as priority to the bean counters (Ford) and is just enough to elicit some oohs and ahhs for the marketing team and showrooms and test drives.

That said, I also agree that the stock intakes are probably pretty good in stock form but that does not mean there isn't room for a little improvement.

My design is based on feedback I've received from race car builders and research I've done on forced induction motors for improving air flow in and out (air pump), I do not in any way think I know anywhere near as much as the Jag engineers who designed these intakes.

 

Hi Cee Jay.

I respectfully disagree, if you want to see cheap as possible go drive a new base model F-Type. I spent some time with a low mile 2017 F-Type and compared to my XKR the interior feels and looks cheap and after seeing the materials used for the body (I never knew it has a plastic body instead of aluminum) with door seals hanging loose I was amazed at the overall cheapness! Heck it only had 2 seat control buttons,WTF!!

The bottom line is I think some of us really need to go drive some "other" cars every once in a while to help gain some perspective about "make it as cheap as possible". LOL

Cheers,

Dave

 

I am all about "more" also and I have been know to dabble a little in Air Flow and deviate from stock. I have spent my life and careers "improving" just about everything. :-)

Stock..


More.....



and even MORE...






Have a great night!

Dave

 

Thank you Dave, those are beautiful! Maybe you should adapt them to fit our cars. Did you do any performance tests, before and after dyno, etc?

 

Thanks, that means a lot coming from you!

Yes, all sorts of tests, bench flow tests, 100s and 100s of dyno testing. I have dynoed just about every combo you can think of, even without filters. hood open vs closed with forced air in the front to simulate air flow on the road etc, etc.. When I did dyno tests I didn't go there to do a few runs, I always rented the dyno facility by the DAY, and sometimes it went into the night!

FUN STUFF!

Dave

 

Hi Jeremy,

You just reminded me of something, in all the years of running dyno tests here is the only real incident I ever had. It is amazing what a tiny pebble in a tire will do at 140mph!







Cheers,

Dave

 

Simplest way to test if your intake adds extra flow is with a digital monometer. I tested factory setup by sticking a the tube on the driver's side intake breether tube hole, got nearly 20inch of restriction at WOT on one side , which is around 1.5psi on both. so I would not say factory setup flows that well
would love to see you test it Jahummer

 

It’s funny you bring that up and not to divert from the thread topic but I recently did a test drive with the F-pace as we’re in the market for a new mid size SUV. It was a very nice ride no doubt but I was sickened by the interior materials from the Premium trim all the way to the S trim, hard hollow plastics throughout, much like a Fiat or Mazda product, not at all becoming of a JAGUAR!

Many positive comments have been made about the Tata takeover but, and this is purely conjecture on my part, after trying out the F type and F pace models, I can’t help but feel perhaps they haven’t made a better Jaguar than Ford did, they made a more profitable one...

 

Funny you mention that... we had a similar experience in a '14 XJL Portfolio vs. a '16 XF. I can't recall the trim the XF was, but it didn't have ACC or cooled seats, so it was probably the base trim. But wow, what a difference between the two! The interior of the XJL was top notch, in line with what I've grown accustomed to in my XKR or maybe even a step above. But the XF? Decidedly low rent. Decent by every means, but very clearly built to a lower price point. That pretty much sealed the deal for her wanting an XJL Portfolio.

Anyway, back to what matters... I like what you're doing here. Do you have any pics and/or video that represents how much louder it is?

 

Here are the final fabricated aluminum intakes. More pics to come.

 

Well, the pics were there...?

 

Jahummer looking good! Anyway you can test the flow on these with a monometer? Easy to do with the breather access hole on the driver's side. I was able to achieve some restriction reduction by cutting out extra holes on the bottom of the stock air box and removing the plastic grill in front of the filter. We can compare numbers so you don't have to test your stock air box for references as I have those already

 

Sure but I do not have one. Is there one you would recommend?

 

This is what I have seems to work pretty good has a recording feature where it will track your max pressure during your WoT run. https://www.walmart.com/ip/LCD-Digital-Manometer-Differential-Air-Pressure-Meter-Gauge-2Psi-13-79Kpa/374871745?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=14098& adid=22222222228000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=424 23897272&wl4=pla-51320962143&wl5=9031332&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl1 0=117879123&wl11=online&wl12=374871745&wl13=&veh=s em

 

That's ugly, here is the shortcut;


https://www.walmart.com/ip/LCD-Digit...13=&veh=s%20em

 

Or perhaps this one?


Don't know if I will receive it quickly enough as I’ll be running the Jag at Sebring but it would be a good time to do it if I can. How did you attach it to the breather on the intake?

 

You don't. The pressure difference would rip the guts out of the sensor. Manometer is good for very little different in pressure across an orifice. The measurement is typically inches of water column so put some water in a clear hose formed as a 'U', blow / draw on it and read the difference in height. Since you don't have a calibrated orifice and pressure gauges you are just checking the difference in pressure from in front of the air filter to the Y before the throttle body, not absolute flow through the filter and tubing (both paths in parallel). You'd probably need to drill and tap a test port on the back of the Y. The manometer would look at inches of water column pressure difference between the points.

I assume you could use the meter to read from one MAF to the other MAF to see how much imbalance tolerance they have before tripping a code. Might be easier to read versus pick the data off the OBD dongle.

I have a 4" needle style from work that I think reads up to 15" of difference. I really haven't done much with it other than toss it on the shelf for later.

 

Simple to connect, you will get a metal attachment with the manometer , its slightly narrower than the breather hole on the driver's side, simply get some duck tape , tape around the metal attachment so it will fit snugly in the hole. Close the breather hose up with some paper wrapped around with plastic or rubber to make a tight seal. Tape the instrument down to it won't move around. Set to record with Max reading . Go do some Wot runs, mine are usually in second gear. That's it, check your max reading.
The one one Amazon looks identical, I'm.sure they mass produced in China with different brand labels, but function the same

 

Here you go

 

A little whine for you...