Help with issue managment. This poped up with CEL.
CEL used to go away after few days, now lasts few weeks and returns after error delete. No symptoms, as ussual. Engine runs fine. Last service (incl.air filters) was 10 tkm ago (ca 6200 ml). What is recommended interval for filters, should I start with them?
Car is stock except resonators delete + x-pype. But CEL used to light here-and-there before that.

 

Doesn't sound as simple/cheap as an air filter change as suspect you have a defective/clogged blown Catalytic Convertor on Bank 2

You could fit a spacer between the cat and the sensor but that's only a short term fix IMO

Am going to guess the original catalysts from 2007, so do tell how long you expected them to last as 14yrs is pretty good.

 

So you think I should start with cats first?
Ok. But I'll also change air filters and spark plugs. Hopefully maf isn't blown too

 

This.
If you have access to an infrared thermometer, you can take temp readings before and after the cats and compare readings. That will show if your cats are okay or not. The readings aren't right now in my brain-hole, but the comparison should show something.

 

Thnx guys for the info. I'll keep you posted about the progress

 

Do not start with the CATS. P0430 is a symptom, not a cause.

P0101 and P010B point to an intake/vacuum leak. This causes a lean condition and does damage to your CATs, hence the P0430.

Check your fuel trims to confirm the lean condition.

Since you have a 2007, I would check the rubber connector between the T-pipe and throttle body ... its probably shredded and causing an air leak. It will most likely shred anyway when you take it off - you should order a replacement before removing it.

Then you can do a smoke test on everything past the throttle body to check for vacuum leaks. Search for the recent 'vacuum leak' thread to see a list of possible sources.

Eventually you will have to replace the CATS, but fix the lean condition first.

Search the codes in the repair manual to confirm everything I just said.

 

Well, just as you said, these is definitely part of the problem... 😂

 

Air filters last 14-16000 miles

 

Following , what is that rubber part called where do you buy?

 

Changed them anyway (after 10 tkm) Spark plugs too, original where still in, car has ca 90 000 ml.

 

That is connection between T-pype and throttle body. Apparently, as gkubrak stated above, in older cars most of them are disintegrated.

 

Yes Yes you can just use a silicone coupler instead , I think I paid 20 30 bucks online

 

^ ^ ^ ^
That's what I did. Paid like $9.99 for a Spectre coupler which came with worm clamps. Hadda use something else on it also, but can't rightly remember what it was.

 

Glad to hear . Had they been changed before ? This seems to be the problem , owners not fully maintaining their cars then they sell it on some poor sod then has to spend a lot of bucks in getting the car up to par , plugs should have been changed at 10 years old or way before , but like I have said lots of times very few on here are on top of maintenance

 

That's what happens when carmakers are force to use more and more biodegradable and recyclable materials in the their new vehicles.

 

Nope, spark plugs no, but car has service book and was regularly serviced, every 2 yrs or 20 tkm. It is actually not in bad shape, just some issuses common with high milleage cars

 

I found the rubber in plumbing store ofc. Did a short test, everything seems fine. But, intake is actually very hot, doubt this rubber will hold long 😒🙄

 

So, first impressions are definitely positive, car feels more alive, less need for gear change, consumption dropped immediately. I was very happy, no CEL. But, when I arrived home I searched for codes anyway and here is what popped out; I can definitely pinpoint source of problems to MAF sensor since all of this codes are related to IAT sensor which is embedded to MAF. However, I read posts from one forum memeber who bought new one and got errors anyway and problem was bad connector, so I'll try that first. Any thoughts?

 

Did you reset the battery after fixing the issue? You have to give the car a chance to re-learn MAF, temps, vacuum, etc...

These are all 'Pending' with no CEL light on. I would reset the battery, let the car idle till its warm, then drive around for a few days. If the CEL doesn't come on, you're good.

Also monitor your fuel trims to ensure there is no longer an air leak.

 

Nope, I didn't reset the battery. But I'll definitely try, it costs me nothing, tnx for advice 😉