Just wondering if anyone had changed their coolant to a waterless type like Evans. I know some of the older Ferrari cars went to it for it's coolant properties as well as it's life so knowing that these cars have a coolant change in their maintenance routine I was curious if anyone made the switch.

 

The issue has been beaten to death here if you do a search. You'll see my admittedly strong views on the product. I consider the product to be a significant downgrade and a step backwards. The heat rejection properties are far inferior to standard coolant.

No car that is sensitive to overheating and coolant loss should go anywhere near the stuff.

 

I use Evans in my Drag/Barely-Streetable Mustang. It had a horrible habit of overheating and blowing out freeze plugs. Plus, drag tracks prohibit the use of glycol-based antifreeze. Regardless of what some people may say, the temperature of my car is now lower since I swapped in the Evans. Plus, since it doesn't boil until like 375 F, there is nearly zero pressure in the system. I can take the radiator cap off at 210 degrees and it just sits there. I like to freak people out by doing that.
Even though it works fantastically in my race car, I would not put it in my Jaguar.

 

I have used Evans in my '07 XK for about 1.5 year. I monitor coolant temp with a scan guage. Before, my cruise temp was about 202-205F with conventional coolant. With Evans temp is slightly less at around 200F. I have seen temps as high as 220F with both Evans and conventional coolants under high heat and dense traffic. The Jaguar system handles heat very well with either coolant. Chemically, Evans is harmless to our coolant systems as is conventional coolant.

I use zero coolant pressure with Evans. Most coolant leaks and water pump failures are due coolant under pressure finding leaks. This results in potentially extended service life for coolant hoses, water pumps, head gaskets, etc. Hard to measure, but no doubt Evans is easier on the system just because it is not presururized.

So far, I am unable to see any downside with Evans. True, it initially costs more, and it takes some time for all the water to purge from a system.

Many owners of antique autos have used Evans - sometimes because their original system was not designed for pressure.

 

Any change in observed coolant temperature would not be due to the type of coolant with either better or worse heat transfer properties as the system is governed by a thermostat.

It is a fact that waterless coolants have inferior heat rejection properties, roughly half that of water. This means that much of the cooling system operating margin has been lost, the last thing an owner would want in a car that doesn't have much to start with.

The other aspect of claimed of it being 'pressureless' defies physics. All liquids (no exceptions) expand with increased temperature. Waterless coolant and conventional coolants expand at more or less the same rate up to (obviously) their boiling points. Conventional coolant does not each it's boiling point during normal operation of the engines so it develops little pressure. About the only time full system pressure is achieved is after shutdown when heat soakback becomes a factor.

The higher boiling point of waterless coolants is of no practical use as the engine would have long been seized with the usual warped heads and blow head gaskets.

 

Mikey, I now want to watch you take the radiator cap (not degas cap or reservoir cap) off a running, up-to-temperature engine. I will however do it from a safe distance so the scalding hot mixture will not burn me, only you. Water UNDER PRESSURE has a higher boiling point. If there is ZERO pressure it will boil at 212F, dependent on altitude. The instant you remove the cap and lower the pressure, the coolant will boil and expand greatly.
Please get yourself informed before you start to spout drive.
Evans under NO pressure does not boil until 375F. As I stated in my previous post, I can SAFELY take the cap off the RADIATOR at full operating temperature, about 210F, and nothing happens. Do the same with your car and video it. Once you exit the hospital, please post that video.

 

Nobody said straight water. I specifically stated standard coolant.

 

Regardless, take the cap off and you will be doused with steaming hot liquid. As soon as the pressure i released, the temperature will rise. You will have 250-300F COOLANT all over your face.
Evans DOES expand when hot, about 0.2%, if even that much. Almost zero system pressure IS very beneficial for coolant lines, gaskets and other components such as water pumps and control solenoids. How could a water pump leak if there is nearly no pressure to push coolant out? Hoses won't rupture. Gaskets won't blow out.

One downside... if you're out somewhere and get road debris damage which drains the radiator, you cannot refill it from a stream or **** into it, not compatible, so you'd be stuck.

 

See whats happening Mikey, experience will always trump theoretical.

Ceejay are you suggesting that non-believers try taking the radiator cap off with uric acid in the tank.

 

Evans work great in Jag engines. One local indy Jag shop has used it in tens Jag engines during last three year. No issues. The boss just told that that hoses have to be in perfect condition.

 

Except for the considerable pressure created by the pump forcing the liquid through the system. This exceeds the amount of pressure created by the expansion of the coolant by a good margin.

This is all old hat- beaten to death years ago on the S-type board. Conclusion? Waste of time, nothing tangible gained and a lot of money spent in the process.

I don't know what school of physics you went to, but liquids under pressure do not increase in temperature when that pressure is released.

 

Mikey, Do you Troll EVERY thread? I've read all the new threads in X150, and you seem to take a lean towards disagreeing with everyone who posts, regardless if they are right or wrong. Nearly every time "they" are right, and you.... well.... not so much.
"Considerable Pressure" from a water pump? Sure, directly at the output of the pump, and then maybe a bit enough to force the water through the system to a point. Thing is, to create PRESSURE in a closed system, there also must be an ABSENCE of pressure at another point to stabilize. Equal and opposite forces and all that SCIENCE nonsense that you don't seem to care about. Just as how water under pressure doesn't boil until a higher temperature is reached. Considerable pressure with a water based coolant. Have you ever read the PSI spec on a radiator cap? You do realize what that means, right??? Per Square Inch. A three inch diameter radiator hose has approximately ten square inches of area. Multiply that times the 15 PSI of rated pressure, and you end up with One Hundred and Fifty pounds of force on that one hose. That's just from the increased temperature of the water (and coolant).
So go back under your Troll Bridge and bother all those Billy Goats Gruff. Leave the serious conversations to the Adult Humans.

 

Cut him some slack for creativity. I know my way around an engine and he even had me thinking- does water go shooting out from the hose when I have the water pump on and the coolant is cold- no it doesnt. Another Mikey science.

 

You need to take into consideration that psi is 'pounds per square inch'. It's the total load per square inch or cm or acre that expresses force, not the total load over the entire surface.

If this was NOT true- how could a sail on a large yacht possibly endure the the typical total loading of over 10 MILLION pounds of force since it's only made out of cloth or thin plastic? Go do the math.

For reference, the typical pressures measured in an S-type system at normal operating temps is about 7 PSI. Most of that pressure is from the coolant pump, measured just before the raditator matrix and is nothing to do with to expansion of the coolant. Those are facts.

Call me a troll if you like, but you were second man in on this discussion and have again come out with a lot of really bad science.

If you enjoy parlour tricks on being able to take off your rad cap with a hot engine and not have the coolant gush out, that's great. I think the OP was looking for something a little more applicable to the cooling of his engine.

Yes, people can get waterless to work. Does it offer any usable advantage on a street driven car? No.

 

^^^^^

 

Instrumental in my decision to use Evans was its endorsement by John Fitch. John Fitch was one of automotive's true greats - in just about every area. Check him on Wikipedia. I believe Fitch worked on developing Evans, even though his name is not on the product. Fitch was not a huckster. He was always understated, and never veered from his enthusiasm for Evans.
Installing Evans on my XL was stupid easy. Just drain radiator - ez/pz. Add Evans product which absorbs water in system. Drain radiator again and add Evans. There will still be some residual water in the system. To purge this just leave the cap off the coolant recovery tank. You will see vapor rising, which is the water evaporating. Over time you will need more Evans to make up for volume loss. In my case it was about a qt. over 6000 miles. Now I leave the cap loose. Haven't added more Evans in last ten months.

 

Not offering any opinion, but those with an interest may find the following informative:

Cooling Faq, Part 2: Coolants - Better Living Through Chemistry


.

 

Thanks for posting. I had read it several years ago and had forgotten where.

The paragraphs discussing specific heat and latent heat clearly illustrate the point being made of the greatly inferior heat transfer properties of waterless coolant. This (aside from cost and inconvenience) is the biggest drawback for this type of coolant.

Later paragraphs illustrate that none of the coolants expand in a significant manner until they reach their boiling points.

 

If I remember correctly, for every pound of pressure on the cooling system the boiling point of water goes up by about 2 deg f. The converse is also true, for every 1000 ft above sea level the temp water boils goes down by approx 2 deg f, so water boils in Denver at about 202 deg f.
Every radiator cap is a pressure cap, it relieves all pressure above its rated pressure. It also has a small valve to let air back in when the system cools down. If it didn't, there would be a vacuum in the system and all the hoses would be sucked flat. I've seen that many times when that small valve sticks. Proof that the cap does indeed vent pressure in excess of its rated pressure.
Regards,