OK but you aren't going to get back those 40+ hours of enjoyment in driving the car. I may be surprised if someone else comes up with the solution as all that come here for convertible top advice go to Whitexkr. Good luck.

 

I remember reading in the owners manual that a bolt, plug, something needed to be turned a couple turns on the pump, if you needed to close the top for some reason manually, I'm assuming this is let the fluid go wherever it needs to and this allows the cylinders to move. When I had my problem I thought the previous owner had stopped in mid cycle and left it for a minute which allowed the top to "bleed" down. After following the instructions in the manual to a tee I had to go through the setup seven or eight times which I started questioning if this was going to work or not but it started to function somewhat. I thought I was going to wear out the allen wrench that closes the header over the windshield. After it started to work electrically I also had that problem with the J hook fitting properly over the drivers seat but I pryed it over, it slipped into place and has worked great ever since (maybe I need to adjust it). I think white xkr is pointing you in the right direction just sit back have a beer and start at square one with no rush in mind and i'm sure you will find the problem.

Randy

 

Thanks so much V8duce,
By your handle I can see you have mechanical experience. You have given me inspiration to attack another suspected culprit. I have suspected the problem lies with why I cannot manually close the soft top. I did return to my original measurements of the (as you properly called it), J hook. I took a day off to mow my lawn today and back away, to think. After another hard reset (over night) no change. Something has to be causing the disconnect and I believe this may be it. I just need to understand it. Which is why I am asking for any manual closing experience.
Thanks again, any other experience with manually closing is appreciated.

 

This is the top latch lock and tension rod (file photo, not mine). Clearly the "J-Hook (thanks V8Duce) is an integral assembly. You can clearly see the screw adjuster but not necessarily how the allen screw makes its adjustment. Or, how, or IF the electrical movement uses the screw to open and close or does it by pass the screw? Perhaps the silver "latch slider" is used unless manually adjusted? The work shop manual is woefully lacking regarding this. Anyone with any ideas? Thanks to all who have helped to this point. It is a brain twister for me.

Moderator, This thread may have played out and perhaps I should repost?

 

I think I am narrowing down my issue, though I fear I have lost any support from the forum. The tension rod on my top is tight, as though the top were in closed position with the latches closed . I believe they need to be opened, but turning the allen wrench (counter clockwise on manual access panel at header) doesn't seem to do anything, even after many, many turns. I am quite hesitant to attempt using the power option, (top down switch) for fear of unintended consequences, though perhaps it could electrically open the latches. In order to reset the synchronizers, the top must be open and stowed under the tonneau. To open and stow the top without the tension rods being released will "pop out" the J-Hooks (both sides) and hence still not reset, though the top can be stowed. So, has anyone successfully manually opened their top? If so, do you recall how many turns or any other factors that could help. The above photo (my previous reply) shows the right side latch I believe and the threaded rod no doubt used to manually open or close. Seems to me like it should be relatively straight forward. I must be missing something.
Thanks again,

 

OK, I tried the switch down and indeed it turned the allen head screw. But the latches never retracted. Interesting.

 

You're already way beyond anywhere that I'd be helpful. New territory, maybe even beyond where White XKR has ventured. Not much help FROM the Forum, but maybe beneficial TO the Forum???

 

When I had trouble with mine I did the up and down thing many times always checking the fluid level,I never had a time when the pump wouldn't run so I'm not much help with that problem. Turning the allen screw on the header took many revolutions a guess would be around 20? I even thought about using a electric drill ha ha but eventually the power took over and once the computer got all its ducks in a row the top started working but I still had to go through a couple more resets after I pryed the j hook into position. I couldn't find any videos on opening the top manually I did find this one that the fellow changed all five rams and said the pump was self venting to get all the air out. Just a thought could one of the top rams be pushing or pulling more than the other causing the top to try to open crooked and causing the j hook to become misaligned?

Randy

 

Interesting video. It does look like they're providing an alternative. The 3 year warranty is good, but offering a 5 or 7 year one would really be the deal maker. Since they're indicating their products should last a lifetime, why not show that in the warranty?
Unfortunately for several here, the front latches are not discussed at all.

 

New Development, I think I have solved my issues. I am going to try and attach photos of the header panel removed so all can see the "Cable Routing". Their is a right side and left side cable that turns. Allen Wrench or power. Eureka! My right side was knackered. Though not to obvious, it was and as such Right and Left work in tandem. One goes out of sync and nothing else will work. So new cables to be ordered and if I say my prayers and hold my mouth just right, the Jaguar Gods may smile upon me. I guess all told this particular issue cost me more hours than I care to admit. Experience is a great teacher, though the school of hard knocks is a bitch!



Center

Right

Left

 

Cool that has to be a good feeling, hope everything works out.

Randy

 

Well, lots of humble pie on the menu today. With replacement of both tension rod cables, the Root Cause of my synchronization problems (and the tension rod cable knacker) after replacing all 5 of my lift pumps was self inflicted. I suspect many in the future will travel my path, so here is the post mortem. I finally cried uncle and enlisted my Indie to help bail me out. Out of the 5 hydraulic pumps that manipulate our tops, 3 (all right hand side) have travel sensors. Per "Top Hydraulics YouTube video" (excellent, though less than step by step accurate) he says the sensors can only fit one way due to the lengths of the wires. Not so. I managed by not paying close enough attention*#@ to reverse the main lift travel sensors, not once but twice! This also happens to be the most difficult one to access by the way. But, I am now an expert on what not to do when replacing your hydraulic lift cylinders!

OK, what I can add to Klaus's excellent YouTube video is the following. To remove the roll pins on both main cylinders (left and right, behind rear seat side panels) requires the removal of a single torqx bolt (it is the only silver colored bolt (galvanized), other are dark) to allow the forward roll pin the necessary space to allow cylinder removal. This confounded me for quite a bit and is not intuitive. Removal of the hydraulic hose "slide clips" for me (2 per cylinder) was a bitch. Even after more times than I care to admit, these clips can be a bitch and as far as I am concerned the most difficult part of this job. Suggest yo purchase a couple extra as they are easily lost. Had I been concerned about the obvious importance of sensor locations, I would have been much more careful in documenting this. So having said this, I can hole heartily recommend Top Hydraulics as a great source for rebuilt cylinders and this job, though not for the faint of heart, is definitely doable.

I suspect many may travel this route in the future as you will likely find few independent shops willing to tackle it and as our cars age, failure is likely. Not just a Jaguar problem by the way. Convertible top mechanical experts are few and very far between, unless you live in FL. So, pardon me while I finish my humble pie.