Latest water pump part number
Hi all, Since our water pumps have been updated so frequently it's not always easy to get the latest part number for the 2010 XK 5.0 water pump. Is it C2Z31587 or as another post has it for AJ813909? Also, what are the most common plastic parts that dealers replace in addition to the pump? Thanks everyone for your help.
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10XKR and MarkyUK....I noticed that after I posted this thread you guys had answered my question. Thank you. It seems that AJ813909 is "presently" the latest updated water pump. Hopefully it will be the last.
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Agreed. The latest water pump is AJ813909. Here's the history, from my thread in the XJ Forum:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-132537/page6/ https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c4ed3dd21f.jpg |
Thanks all! My XK is in for water pump replacement right now as well. Will keep an eye on the part number. My dealer suggested not to swap any other parts than the water pump when I asked. Also not the front cross over pipe. Keep in mind my 2011 car has less than 10k miles on the odo. As per my request, the coolant liquid will be entirely renewed. Serpentine belt... they didn’t mention it. Br ter |
Btw I can confirm that my new water pump is part number AJ813909, according to the info by my dealer. Br, ter |
New pump mounted. Slight smell of coolant persists after 5 mile drive home from dealer. Lets see how it continues over next couple 100s of miles... br ter |
Originally Posted by Ter11
(Post 1953192)
New pump mounted. Slight smell of coolant persists after 5 mile drive home from dealer. Lets see how it continues over next couple 100s of miles... br ter |
After a longer drive today: Smell seems significantly less than before. Will monitor it, same as the coolant level. @Bocatrip - so you also have your car back with replaced water pump now? Result? Anything else changed in parts? br ter |
I mentioned in the other thread also.... I had a slight coolant smell for about 1 month after water pump replacement. The dealer that did the work did rinse off the parts and the underbelly but residual coolant obviously remained, probably in the nooks of the engine valley. That's ok though as the coolant level did not change once it bled (about 2 days after I had to add about 5oz).
All that said, ~6 months later, I get an occasional faint wiff after I pull in the garage and shut down the motor. I check the coolant level weekly still. Coolant leaks and remnants of it are the devil for those of us who stress over the little things (me) ;) |
Originally Posted by Ter11
(Post 1953533)
After a longer drive today: Smell seems significantly less than before. Will monitor it, same as the coolant level. @Bocatrip - so you also have your car back with replaced water pump now? Result? Anything else changed in parts? br ter |
Originally Posted by bocatrip
(Post 1953732)
Dropped my car off at a different Jaguar dealership after 4 years using the closest one to me. Asked for an oil change and told them about my coolant smell and having to add coolant (very small amounts of a few ounces). Called me and told me pressure test showed no leaks. Told me my brake fluid was very dirty and I need tires even though they have 7/32nds left. My brake fluid was changed 2 years ago. Dirty?? Ha ha. Need tires because they are 8 years old? Yes I know tires should be replaced after 6 years but there is no sign of dry wall cracking and always garaged. Looks like dealership wants to perform a Walletetectomy? My car now has 10,400 miles on it. I guess I'll have to live with the coolant smell and keep an eye on my level. I've exhausted my options as I've taken it to 2 Jaguar dealerships and one Indy who had also checked the weep hole and found no evidence of crusting or coolant. With the amount of driving I do...(500-700 miles per year), I'm sure I'll pick up on it if it progresses. I have 1 1/2 years left on my Easy Care extended warranty but don't think I'll be using it.
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Hi all Update - More than 3 months and about 3k mls ago my waterpump was changed. Reason: I noted faint smell of coolant and the coolant level was decreasing very slowly. Now, despite the new pump, unfortunately the smell and the very slowly decreasing level of coolant continue basically as before. The coolant loss is however really quite minimal, i.e. about 3mm. No need yet to add coolant. The dealer who replaced the pump is not extremely helpful; they don’t seem to know where the issue comes from. When they pressurize the system, there is apparently no leak visible. Not very happy with this... Br ter |
Originally Posted by Ter11
(Post 1999003)
Hi all Update - More than 3 months and about 3k mls ago my waterpump was changed. Reason: I noted faint smell of coolant and the coolant level was decreasing very slowly. Now, despite the new pump, unfortunately the smell and the very slowly decreasing level of coolant continue basically as before. The coolant loss is however really quite minimal, i.e. about 3mm. No need yet to add coolant. The dealer who replaced the pump is not extremely helpful; they don’t seem to know where the issue comes from. When they pressurize the system, there is apparently no leak visible. Not very happy with this... Br ter |
Mine went in for it's first annual service with me two weeks ago.
When doing the safety checks they advised that mine is showing no signs of leakage so It would be best to leave alone :D So do tell, how does a new purchaser of a vehicle with little service history (apart from the Jag stamps) tell whether their car has had a new one installed by an Indy, or even DIY, can a visual inspection identify? Ask as remember reading somewhere that the pump physically needs to be removed to check the part no...which seems a little farcical :( |
Try UV Dye
Ter,
Coolant circulates throughout your car and can leak from many places including, but not limited to, a hose, cylinder head gasket, radiator or cap, overflow tank, and heater. The most likely culprit, the water pump, may not be the cause. It may be so small that it wasn't detected by a pressure test. Many auto parts stores sell UV dye and light kits. You can place the UV dye in your engine coolant and drive your car for a few days to make sure the dye circulates through everything. Then, park your car in a very dark place and use the UV light to search for your leak. The dye will show up very brightly under the UV light and should provide a path to your leak point. Don't forget to look inside your car after you've turned on the heater, since that's just a small radiator located under the dash and could be leaking. Good luck finding the leak. Stuart |
Originally Posted by Stuart S
(Post 1999020)
Ter,
Coolant circulates throughout your car and can leak from many places including, but not limited to, a hose, cylinder head gasket, radiator or cap, overflow tank, and heater. The most likely culprit, the water pump, may not be the cause. It may be so small that it wasn't detected by a pressure test. Many auto parts stores sell UV dye and light kits. You can place the UV dye in your engine coolant and drive your car for a few days to make sure the dye circulates through everything. Then, park your car in a very dark place and use the UV light to search for your leak. The dye will show up very brightly under the UV light and should provide a path to your leak point. Don't forget to look inside your car after you've turned on the heater, since that's just a small radiator located under the dash and could be leaking. Good luck finding the leak. Stuart My suspect no 1 is the front cross over pipe. But no proof so far that this is really it. If anyone has a suggestion where exactly to look for the leak, pls advise. Br ter Br |
Originally Posted by Ter11
(Post 1999155)
In my case, while the actual leak could not be found so far, the coolant smell comes clearly from the front of the engine. As far as one can tell mostly from the area below where the black air intake hoses join, i.e. above the water pump. My suspect no 1 is the front cross over pipe. But no proof so far that this is really it. If anyone has a suggestion where exactly to look for the leak, pls advise. Br ter Br |
Originally Posted by Ter11
(Post 1999155)
In my case, while the actual leak could not be found so far, the coolant smell comes clearly from the front of the engine. As far as one can tell mostly from the area below where the black air intake hoses join, i.e. above the water pump. My suspect no 1 is the front cross over pipe. But no proof so far that this is really it. If anyone has a suggestion where exactly to look for the leak, pls advise. Br ter Br |
Guys may I offer an alternative way to not have any coolant worries.
This is one of the cars where a leak does not matter- and we may have been brainwashed into believing it catastrophic...bear with me. One one hand you have folks who cant find the leak despite extensive testing- on the ulcer chart I give this a 9. Then you have guys who have preemptively replaced the water pump with the correct one, and they still smell coolant. This is a 10 on the chart. So what we have irrefutably established is that even the attempts to cure the ulcer gives us no relief and does the opposite. There is a way it can be managed and nothing catastrophic can happen. Know that this engine can run a minute with no coolant and no damage. Enough time to pull over. So it seems to me it would be easier to simply be vigilant. Monitor the engine temp. Check the coolant level. Check the oil** If something blows, it will do you a favor and show you exactly where the problem was. ** if you notice coolant low, once every 4months siphon out the oil and check for water, put it back in. 3 of my daily drivers loose coolant, even the ones I have changed the water pump on. Doesnt bother me. Now if I ever saw a drop on the floor, I would make sure to track down the cause and fix it, as it will kill someone's pet. |
The Q&C way...pedal to the metal and a new air freshener hung on the rear-view mirror. All will be just fine...until it isn't just fine. :)
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Come on, thats is the opposite what I said.
I said the worst that can happen if you are diligent, (opposite of negligent) is that you have to replace the water pump or some hose. The worst that can happen when you precautionarily replace something is to find it was something else. The logic is right in front of you and not so easily dismissed. |
Talking 5.0l engines: Is there actually an XK out there that doesn’t have a slight smell of coolant in the engine bay? Because earlier this year when I was looking at various XKs and XKRs from 2006-2014 there was not one XK that didn’t have this smell. Not XKRs however - the two of them that I had a closer look at didn’t. Coincidence maybe or a result of a somewhat less plasticy cooling system of the XKR. Best regards, ter |
My '10 XKR smells of coolant, especially when the ambient temperature is hot.
It had the water pump changed around 8 months ago and doesn't seem to lose any coolant. It has also been pressure tested and passed so I am just living with it for now but keep a close eye on the coolant temperature with my OBD gear when I go drag racing. |
Ter11, I have the same symptoms as you, slow coolant loss and smell of coolant/antifreeze after a drive. No sign of coolant on the garage floor and a friend looked at the pump for me and declared it to be a new one (I've only had the car two months so far) so I guess it's not that. Suspect it's something that only "leaks" once it's properly heated up, i.e. short trips or pressure testing when the engine is not up to operating temp may not show it, or not enough to be detected.
Right now I'm taking the Q&C approach as detailed above, watching the coolant level every couple of days or so and paying attention to the car for noises, smoke, smells etc. Next time it's in the garage I'll have them check it out. |
A few things to keep in mind is to check the fluid level both cold and hot. When cold fluid should be at the MIN line and at hot no higher then the MAX line. Also either have your pressure cap check or replaced. They don't last forever anymore. If you have the energy and someplace to do it (on a lift) then take the time to remove the belly pans and do a search. Also after a hot run when you stop just pop the bonnet and look around the pressure tank.
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Originally Posted by Ter11
(Post 1999412)
Talking 5.0l engines: Is there actually an XK out there that doesn’t have a slight smell of coolant in the engine bay? Because earlier this year when I was looking at various XKs and XKRs from 2006-2014 there was not one XK that didn’t have this smell. Not XKRs however - the two of them that I had a closer look at didn’t. Coincidence maybe or a result of a somewhat less plasticy cooling system of the XKR. Best regards, ter |
Originally Posted by XJ8JR
(Post 1999478)
Every Jag I've ever had smells like coolant from time to time.
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Dear all From experience with other cars in the past and also going trough the coolant loss check list of the workshop manual: slow coolant loss may also be caused by very small cracks in the engine block. In fact in our family we had a car many years ago where the engine was replaced under manufacturer warranty because of slow coolant loss that was diagnosed due to a small engine block crack. However that particular engine model was known to have these issues. For the x150 I never found reports about such trouble with engine block developing cracks. Anyone else did? br ter |
My 2010
my 2010 XKR is on pump #3 now & they also found a crack in a hose somewhere on the bottom of the car. I’ve put about 5k miles on with no coolant smell. Even after pump #2 I had the faint smell so the hose was probably leaking the entire time. It’s nice to finally not have that smell. I only hope it lasts! |
Originally Posted by Rick7311
(Post 2022678)
my 2010 XKR is on pump #3 now & they also found a crack in a hose somewhere on the bottom of the car. I’ve put about 5k miles on with no coolant smell. Even after pump #2 I had the faint smell so the hose was probably leaking the entire time. It’s nice to finally not have that smell. I only hope it lasts! Br ter |
Originally Posted by Ter11
(Post 2022578)
Dear all From experience with other cars in the past and also going trough the coolant loss check list of the workshop manual: slow coolant loss may also be caused by very small cracks in the engine block. In fact in our family we had a car many years ago where the engine was replaced under manufacturer warranty because of slow coolant loss that was diagnosed due to a small engine block crack. However that particular engine model was known to have these issues. For the x150 I never found reports about such trouble with engine block developing cracks. Anyone else did? br ter |
I’ve had the coolant smell since day 1 of ownership some 5 years ago with 4,800 miles on my car. I’ve read about some plastic lines in our cars being replaced with metal ones. It would be nice but highly unlikely for all the plastics in the vulnerable XK 150 to have upgraded metal replacements. It’s not if the plastic lines will fail but when......... not to mention the notorious water pump. The cooling system being the weakest link in XK 150 ownership |
Having just completed a coolant pump change in my 2010 XKR, the latest revision I found was AJ813909. After a couple hours research looking for the hard (brittle) tube (B in graphic) and the little Y shaped part number (A in graphic) connecting the pump bypass and the throttle body to the heater return, I realized the design had been changed to a simpler and more reliable configuration. The Y part is no longer available, nor is the hard tube. They are replaced by a new design that has a thick rubber tube coming off the large coolant tube (C in graphic) thermostat to upper manifold. As my car is a daily driver who has put about 60k of the 120k miles on my XKR, I try to minimize unecessary downtime. As I do my almost all of my own mechanical work, I would definitely recommend at a minimum changing those parts (for about $100 US) and save yourself the extra hours of labor that will be needed when they deteriorate from the inside out simply due to age. The new design requires replacement of the large coolant tube and the Y part, but eliminates the brittle plastic tube, and you get a new plastic bleeder connection to plug into the coolant pump, which is another common failure point that will cause you to have to go to the new design.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...63fc16c7fc.png OLD DESIGN - 5.0 S/C https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...16f79a0f35.jpg NEW DESIGN - 5.0 S/C (you can just see the new grey colored "Y" part at the top of the picture.) |
Originally Posted by riverman
(Post 2022934)
Having just completed a coolant pump change in my 2010 XKR, the latest revision I found was AJ813909. After a couple hours research looking for the hard (brittle) tube (B in graphic) and the little Y shaped part number (A in graphic) connecting the pump bypass and the throttle body to the heater return, I realized the design had been changed to a simpler and more reliable configuration. The Y part is no longer available, nor is the hard tube. They are replaced by a new design that has a thick rubber tube coming off the large coolant tube (C in graphic) thermostat to upper manifold. As my car is a daily driver who has put about 60k of the 120k miles on my XKR, I try to minimize unecessary downtime. As I do my almost all of my own mechanical work, I would definitely recommend at a minimum changing those parts (for about $100 US) and save yourself the extra hours of labor that will be needed when they deteriorate from the inside out simply due to age. The new design requires replacement of the large coolant tube and the Y part, but eliminates the brittle plastic tube, and you get a new plastic bleeder connection to plug into the coolant pump, which is another common failure point that will cause you to have to go to the new design.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...63fc16c7fc.png OLD DESIGN - 5.0 S/C https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...16f79a0f35.jpg NEW DESIGN - 5.0 S/C (you can just see the new grey colored "Y" part at the top of the picture.) |
Originally Posted by bocatrip
(Post 1953732)
... told me pressure test showed no leaks.
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It's not. The large coolant tube "C" is shorter in the non-supercharged by about an inch. The diameter is slightly smaller too.
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Originally Posted by riverman
(Post 2025856)
It's not. The large coolant tube "C" is shorter in the non-supercharged by about an inch. The diameter is slightly smaller too.
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Originally Posted by bocatrip
(Post 1999009)
Welcome to my world! I'm still driving with my original water pump and although I can smell coolant after every drive and do notice some coolant loss, no Jaguar dealership or independent shop has been able to locate the origin of any leak. The weep hole at the water pump is dry with no crusting, and after pressurizing the system over night, it always holds the pressure. I've learned to live with it, and also am not crazy about having the dealership taking things apart, especially when they aren't able to find the cause.
Or... I purposely slightly overfill the reservoir, hoping after running the right amount gets corrected through expansion/contraction. Obviously there is a short period of odor. A habit from older cars. |
Originally Posted by guy
(Post 2025904)
heater core? Or... I purposely slightly overfill the reservoir, hoping after running the right amount gets corrected through expansion/contraction. Obviously there is a short period of odor. A habit from older cars. |
Originally Posted by bocatrip
(Post 2025927)
Smell is never on inside of car. Always on outside after a drive. That should eliminate the heater core. After so many inspections and pressure tests there has never been a single sign of any crusty coolant anywhere. Of course in reality it only takes a few tiny drops of coolant to cause the smell. If the culprit can’t be found it can’t be repaired. |
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