My 07 XKR Coupe has done this twice now, although about 6 months apart. I fire up the car in the garage, travel about 8 miles, once to get groceries, once to get gas.

I leave the car with locked doors, come back and the door unlocks but window won't drop. Once inside, nothing works at all, can't close the door, no interior lights, nothing. Using the emergency blade, I get into the trunk, (interestingly, the lights are on there). Pull the battery cover and disconnect/reconnect the battery and the alarm goes off. Once silenced with the fob, all is well again.

I have seen the usual freeze up on the nav screen issue several times, and the other gremlins the 07 seems to have, but this one has me stumped. If nothing else, I may try to put in a quick disconnect so I don't need to tear the trunk apart when things go wonky.

My car doesn't sit, it's a daily driver locked and asleep while in the garage overnight. Battery checks out fine and was replaced less than a year ago.

Thanks for looking and making any suggestions!

 

This might sound silly, but have you tried simply relocking and unlocking with the key fob? I ask because every time I get in my car, I have to do a relock and unlock in order to have my iPod and/or USB ports work. There is something wrong with the initial unlock, as all systems don't always turn on.

 

In a 2013...seriously?

 

This issue only started after I mostly stopped driving the car for the winter. It's very consistent, though. Happens every time I get in the car now. Thankfully I discovered the sure fire remedy. I'll take it in once I start driving it again in the Spring and see what the issue is.

 

I stated the door won't close because the window won't drop. So a lock / unlock will not happen with the fob.

 

The only thing that readily comes to mind is......maybe the battery terminal fittings on the battery are not tight or are corroded and not making good contact.

I'd GUESS the light in the 'trunk' works because it does not draw much amperage vs all the other lights. Hey, if this occurs again try turning the headlights ON and see what happens. Probably won't light. Leave them on then go to the battery and wiggle the fittings on the battery and see if the headlights come on or not. If they do then to me it's bad terminal connections on the battery.

 

Interesting theory about loose battery connections/bad terminals. It would make sense.

 

Sorry, not the case, the terminals are as brand new and they are secured correctly. I probably have to reboot the car every 2 months or so. :-) Very familiar with how things are in the battery compartment.

I'm starting to lean towards the security system. But with it being this intermittent, I'll have some real troubles figuring out what it is.

 

Any small chance the key fob needs to have its battery replaced? Mabe carry both fobs with you and try each.

I had something similar happen to me four or five months ago. Visited my brother and when leaving the start button did zip. I don't think I had locked the doors prior to this.

To get the car to start I put the fob in the armrest Smart Key Dock and started it that way.

In fact if you have not already tried this, maybe the next time put the Smart Key in the dock and start or try to start the car.

Sad part of this is that when I got home I turned the car off and then started the car numerous times using the same fob without changing the fob battery. That said, if I were you I'd try that Smart Key in the Dock next time it happens and see how it goes.

I'm not too sure how this would work out if the car had been locked up and the door would not unlock. The part you mentioned about how your door opened but the window did not come down the inch or so it normally does caught my eye. How hard was it to get the door open without breaking the glass??? I'm not going to try this on my car 'cause I'd probably break the glass. I guess there is enough 'bend' in it to get the door open.

 

New fob battery, but I hadn't thought of trying the fob dock, thanks! If or when it happens again that would be a great data point or possibly cure.

 

I don't suppose this could be your problem?

Unable to Unlock Vehicle / No Electrical Power - Repair Procedure

JTB00147 AFFECTED VEHICLE RANGE: XK (X150) VIN: B00001 - B32964
Model Year: 2007 - 2009

CONDITION SUMMARY:
Situation: An issue has been identified where after returning to the vehicle less than 10 minutes after locking, the customer is unable to unlock the vehicle with the remote handset and, after using the mechanical key to enter the vehicle, the engine will not crank. After 10 minutes the vehicle will recover and operate normally. This may be caused by a software issue with the Central Junction Box (CJB) and Auxiliary Junction Box (AJB).

NOTE: If the vehicle is eligible for Service Action K013: XK Enhancement Program, the CJB and AJB will be updated to the latest software as part of that Repair Procedure and the SRO in this Technical Bulletin may not be claimed.

Action: In the event of a customer concern of the above, refer to the Repair Procedure outlined below to reconfigure the Central Junction Box and Auxiliary Junction Box.

1. Connect the Midtronics PSC-550 Vehicle Power Supply to the vehicle battery. NOTE: IDS must be loaded with software release DVD116 Patch File 3 or later.
2. Connect the IDS to the vehicle and begin a new diagnostic session by entering the correct VIN for the current vehicle.
3. Follow the IDS prompts to read the vehicle configuration.
4. Select 'No' when prompted 'Do you wish to read diagnostic trouble codes?'
5. Select 'tick' to continue.
6. Select the 'Vehicle Configuration' tab when Content Model is displayed.
7. From the Vehicle Configuration menu, configure the 'Central junction box' by selecting from the drop-down menu:
'Module programming' > 'Configure existing module' > 'Software enhancement program' > 'Central junction box (body control module)
8. Select 'tick' to continue, following all on-screen instructions to complete this task. IDS will return to the Vehicle Configuration menu when completed.
9. From the Vehicle Configuration menu, configure the 'Auxiliary junction box' by selecting from the drop-down menu:
'Module programming' > 'Configure existing module' > 'Software enhancement program' > 'Auxiliary junction box (body control module B)
10. Select 'tick' to continue, following all on-screen instructions to complete this task. IDS will return to the Vehicle Configuration menu when completed.
11. Exit the current session.
12. Disconnect IDS and the Midtronics PSC-550 Vehicle Power Supply from the vehicle.

 

This problem has happened to me, not only on the Jaguar, but also on two other cars. My conclusion is that a good-appearing battery connection may not be so.
Battery posts are slightly tapered; and in order to have full/complete contact the male and female connections should be absolutely flush at the top.
When the cables are removed they naturally relax and flex at bit towards a closed position. When reconnected it is easy to gently press the connector downward as far as it goes, and then tighten. Sometimes, this is not far enough and one has just a slight contact point, which can cause these problems.
The short answer is to force the jaws of the female connector open while disconnected, so that it slips on easily over the male post and then tighten when the two posts are flush.

 

I want to say that you have a battery that is not fully charged because you are having it sit through winter. Once the battery is weak, these electrical issues start to happen. Have you tried a new battery yet?

 

I understand you stated the battery was replaced less than a year ago and also that it checked out fine.

Did you have load checked? Also, is it a regular lead-acid battery? Your issues really seem to point to low voltage/current draw issues with the battery.

There have have been many discussions on the board about batteries in these cars. The best battery to have is an AGM battery. Regular lead - acid batteries do not last very long in thee cars and really are not suitable to maintain the necessary stable voltage/current need of the electronics.

 

I have replaced the FOB battery, put it in the slot...nothing.

I have a new battery for the auto coming Monday. Interstate AGM. I'm rather p!ssed off that my charger claims the present battery is fully charged and yet I have nothing lighting up on the car.

 

I'm hoping that when you find the fix you'll post what it was on this thread.

Curious. Have you looked at the water level in the battery by removing the six plugs and taking a look? I did this on my 2007 XK two days ago out of curiosity and the water level was quite a bit low in each cell. I did this out of curiosity and not because of any electrical problem. Should have done this the day I bought the car.

My batt has a date of May/08 on it. Jaguar stickers on its back side indicates probably a Jag install.

I know this post is of little or no help to you. Just a response.

 

Interesting! Almost 5 years on this battery is pretty good - no very good. I don't have the facts to back this up, but from what I have read and my experience going all the back to the 99 XK8 I had for 13 years, I would say anything over 3 years is very good. I've never had one make it to 5 years, but I do make a lot of short trips.

 

While waiting for Monday to roll around, you might do what Andrew did and pull the cables off the battery and reinstall them and see if the car now starts or not.

I think that would be good info for what ails these cars. Wouldn't take much time to do and would be of value to others. Thank you.

 

Sorry to have missed the last few replies until today, I've been here pretty much daily, but missed the posts.

The TSB looks promising, I will try the 10 minute wait next time to see if it is that issue. My VIN does fall into that range. I might just have them do it if it's not too dear, next time I go to the dealer.

I absolutely know my battery is OK. I have a Sun VAT 40 charging system diagnostic machine.

 

I will give that a shot this morning and report back. TSB?