Changed out my radiator and tstat. Everything worked perfect for a few months and then the check engine light came on with a small vac leak. Opened the hood and had lost a little coolant. It's leaking enough now I get small little puddles in the garage. My problem is I can't find the leak. It's coming down right over the oil filter. I've felt all the way up for coolant but I can't feel any. The closest thing I could feel that might be the culprit is around what I'm assuming is the water pump. Is that something that would leak? I've never had that issue with any car. If not, maybe it's above it and I just haven't found it yet.

2007 xk

 

Water pumps on all 5.0L models are well-known for premature leaking and failure. But that's not so with the 4.2L engine - they are quite reliable, although anything mechanical can fail.

A pressure test should pinpoint the source of your coolant leak. There are many possibilities including, but not limited to, a bad water pump, hoses, and a cracked plastic radiator neck. Using a flashlight, you may be able to see the tell-tale sign of dried orange-red coolant on the engine block.

How many miles on your 2007 XK?

 

Don't forget the heater core, thermostat housing or any of the many smaller coolant passage lines.

 

When mine leaked it was that hose that attaches with a snap ring right in front of the tstat housing, due to a bad o-ring. I'd check that one out.

 

78k miles on it. I've replaced the radiator and tstat recently and both those areas have been checked. I've had my hands on pretty much every hose at this point. The only area I can feel that's wet(hard to tell because it's also very dirty) is in the front of the engine right in the middle.

 

Seems to point in the direction of the water pump. But a closer inspection is the only way to know for sure before replacing parts unnecessarily.

 

I'm going to go rent a pressure test tool from Auto Zone to see if that will show me what's leaking.

 

After doing a pressure test it appears to be coming from the coolant outlet assembly. There's an end piece on the drivers side that looks like it might screw in.(I know it's just an end piece but looks like it would screw) Any way it's leaking from right there. I've got a lot of the coolant hoses off so I can see down in there but it looks like I have to take quite a bit off to get to the top screws in the assembly. Argh!

 

Are you talking about the 'octopus' that holds the thermostat?

 

Yes, I guess you could say octopus. It was the end of it. The end had popped out a little and that's where it was leaking. While changing it all I had a few other brittle pieces break. One of the lines out of the throttle body broke so I had to replace it along with a small electrical box that broke when I tried to figure out how the line went into it. I bought new pieces, put it back together but the car is saying my emergency brake isn't working.

I have a brand new tstat and housing for the tstat if anyone wants a good deal on one. I had just replaced mine but when I bought the "octopus" I had to buy another one because it was all one package.

 

That's because they're so related, right? 🤔

There is a parking brake reset procedure you could try (little hard to find it from my phone right now).

 

This? (from JTB00084 - Electronic Parking Brake: Diagnostic Aid)

PARKING BRAKE CALIBRATION
NOTE: After carrying out any work on the parking brake or rear brake calipers and discs, the
parking brake requires calibration.
1. Carry out a 30-second power reset on the EPB Module:
• Switch the ignition 'off'.
• Remove the EPB Fuse (check wiring diagram in GTR to confirm which fuse to remove).
• OR disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. After replacing the fuse or reconnecting the battery, start the engine.
TECHNICAL BULLETIN NUMBER
JTB00084
Page 4 of 7
3. Confirm that the message 'NOT CALIBRATED' or 'APPLY FOOT AND PARKING BRAKE' is
displayed on the instrument cluster message centre. This indicates that the parking brake is in
calibration mode.
4. Firmly apply and release the foot brake five times.
5. Lightly hold your foot on the brake pedal.
6. Apply the parking brake by using the EPB switch.
7. Release the parking brake using the switch.
8. Release the foot brake.
9. Confirm that the brake warning lamp is not illuminated on the instrument pack and that the 'NOT
CALIBRATED' or ' APPLY FOOT AND PARKING BRAKE' messages are no longer displayed in the
message centre.
10. Apply and release the parking brake five additional times using the EPB switch to ensure no error is
present.

 

Shemp, I went thru the calibration but I still get "cannot apply park brake" message.

 

I'm putting a fresh charge on the battery just in case.

 

Well crap. This is the kind of thing that pisses me off. I take time and money to fix something and when you're done something else is wrong. How the heck could the emergency brake get messed up when I wasn't even using the car. I'm guessing a normal code reader won't read my brake fault?

 

yea this sucks. I assume the brake is off so it's drive-able?

I saw on the S-Type forum the the reset include a 30 second battery disconnect. Maybe try that if not already? I'm throwing guesses out as I don't know much about these cars yet.

I have a OBDII reader if you want I can stop by....

 

It's off but there is a loud beep, kind like when you're driving without the seat belt on.

Hey I meant to ask, how is that Bluetooth adapter working out? I think you said you were getting one for the middle 30 pin apple connection in the center console.

 

ah yea that beep could get annoying.

Yea I bought this one. Works great so far with my wife's iPhone and my Android. Sometimes I have to toggle between USB and iPod on the console to get sound but I think that's an issue with the car, not the Bluetooth device....
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Ada...pro+coolstream