So.
I'd noticed since I bought my car (used), a shudder-vibration on left turns from a stop (across traffic, etc.). Nothing definitive on the the forums about this, a few folks have a similar problem but no answers.

I bring my car into my dealer shop before my Big Cross Country Trip. (yes I will post more photos)

First: my car had very low miles but was too old to CPO. So I went with an aftermarket warranty from a company the dealer worked with, Fidelity. I got what I call the "Super-Duper-Awesome" plan, which covers as much as a warranty can cover, for six years and up to 100,000 miles, with a $100 deductible anywhere.

Second: I have nothing but good things to say about the service department at Rusnak Pasadena. Smart reps, good techs, they'll work with you on price and what needs done.

But... when I brought the car in for the 30K service and "fix EVERYTHING that needs fixing," I mentioned the shudder/vibration and they couldn't find it on a test drive. Fine.

I head out from LA to NYC. Somewhere around Memphis I get this yellow "E-DIFF SYSTEM FAILURE" warning. Scary. But the car's driving fine, so I reach out to a friend-of-a-friend at Jaguar Memphis. Bad news: they can't see the car for two weeks. Good news: "how does the car drive?" I'm asked. Fine, I tell them, and he tells me not to worry, in essence I now have a "normal" differential, whatever was fancy in the Jag diff no longer works, no worries. Dynamic mode won't work (he's right) and take it easy until I can get it to a dealer.

Fast-forward: I make it, but now the E-Diff warning light is on all the time. I take it to Jaguar Great Neck.

They call in a few days: the car needs a new differential. The problem may be minor, but.... get this...

JAGUAR DOES NOT ALLOW FOR REPAIR ON THE E-DIFFERENTIAL. All they will do is replace the entire thing.

I tell them my warranty company is "pretty good." They're skeptical. The E-diff itself is, I'm told, around $10,000.

What happens? Indeed, the E-Diff is no good. The warranty company will pay ABSOLUTELY ALL OF IT, INCLUDING RENTAL TRANSPORTATION.

So now I've got a brand new differential. No more left-turn shudder.

My cost? The $100 deductible.

I've attached the invoice, which does NOT include the differential itself. (The mysterious $580 in "handling" is the cost to get the differential to NYC.) I am told the warranty company bought a differential directly from Jaguar in Coventry at a cost of $9,500.

Thus far the warranty has paid:

injector (1)
coil (1)
rear fog lights (2)
front bushings (2)
supercharger rebuild
transmission mount (1)
computer module
and, of course, the new differential.
The cost to the warranty company? Well over $14,000.
I don't know what I would have done without it.

 

Wow, that is a CRAZY story. Looks like your long trip finally flushed out the issue. Great move buying the protection plan.

 

How nice to see a post re a company that stands behind their product.

 

Wow dude, excellent decision!
Ok, so how many are calling Fidelity this morning? (I see their phone number on the receipt.)

 

THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING YOU DO.

Here's something back at you and you can make $3000

IMPORTANT: Get your original back from the dealer- many would give their right arm to have one. (yes its repairable- by experts) [I had the same problem with GM Suv, which ironically I bought new in LA- went through 2 new entire rearends under30k miles. Then I took it to a pro who actually fixed it]

If you need help with the transportation and storage, I can easily have the guys at my factory take care of it all. There will be a crate right there- its simply needs a calltag and we have tons of space.

 

Incidentally, the 3rd time when I had it rebuilt as opposed to replaced- we found what was wrong with the 2nd brand new rearend that the dealer installed.

It had a manufacturing flaw from Timken Bearings. The $20 bearing had holes, air gaps in the metal. The kind you get if you dont get the air out from a casting. Manufacturing defect by the supplier.

 

This is great news for you!

Also, I have to say that $1300 isn't too bad for a new E-diff installed at a dealer IMO. (less that crazy high shipping charge of course).

 

Well done - Full name and contact info for warranty company please.

 

A few questions:

1. What was the cost of the extended warranty?
2. The invoice shows a cost of $1,849. I understand your obligation was just the $100 deductible?
3. I see that the car now has 35K miles per the repair invoice. You listed a long list of repairs funded by the warranty company - how many miles were logged by the car during your ownership?
4. I agree that in retrospect it appears it was a good idea to buy the extended warranty - but perhaps not a good idea to buy that particular vehicle given its repair history subsequent to your purchase?

Thanks.

 

3rd time? Is this something particular with the 2010 XKRs? I'm particularly interested because I am picking up one the end of this week. 2010 XKR coupe, Black/Caramel just under 21K miles. Maybe I should look into the Fidelity warranty?

 

My 2010 XKR has over 60,000 miles, not problem one with the rear.

 

Will all carriers do this? I'd think they'd do the same thing themselves to recoup the loss. They do it with whole vehicles, just curious if they do with high end parts.

 

Perhaps it was an issue with some and not all. Maybe a range of VIN numbers where it was an issue an others where it wasn't?

 

My XKR does the left turn from a stop shudder too, but goes away after the diff and trans have warmed up about 3 mins later.

 

if you look at Q&C's previous post, he was talking about a GM SUV that had issues with the rear end. Not his XKR.

 

Thanks all! Went off the grid for a bit - road trip!
NEWS: new E-Diff works perfectly, so far-- and no more shuddering on left turns from a stop!
Individual replies to follow...

 

EVERYONE - even my dealer in LA - said they "couldn't notice the problem." I knew there was something. Not to be a bearer of bad news, but I think it's a when-not-if thing.

(HINT: if you do decide to go the warranty route, do NOT mention it. They will never pay for the hated Pre-Existing Conditions...)

 

These are all excellent questions. Here you go:

1 and 2) About 3500, I think. Don't remember now. I financed and we negotiated/haggled it in. It's good for 100,000 miles/6 years with a $100/$0 deductible ($0 deductible if I have Jaguar San Diego do the work - where I bought the car, $100 everywhere else). So yes my money out on this was $100. And I could have had a rental car the whole time, on their dime. I am in NYC so there's really no need for a car anyway.

3) I bought the car with a little under 8,000 miles on it. I am the second owner of the car. Orig owner traded it in at the dealer where he bought it. According to the dealer, he just never drove it. It was six years old when I got it so that's pretty true.

4) You know, I think that myself sometimes. I still sniff around for newer XKR's. I'm still most concerned by the injector and coil issues (different cylinders, BTW), which were the first thing I brought the car in on-- it suddenly went into Limp-Home mode and wasn't THAT a surprise. Everything else - including the e-diff - seem from reading this forum to be things that happen to these cars. (especially the transmission mount and front bushings).
My MAIN feeling is... this is a confirmation of my belief that the first few cars off the assembly line of a new model (which the 2010 model year almost is for XK's) are sort of beta-testers. This car's in-service was early summer of 2009 so it was a brand spankin' new 2010. That was my main reservation when buying this car.
FYI: I've also paid, on my own dime, for the A/C whine to be fixed, as well as a pre-emptive fix on the AC drain/duckbill issue mentioned elsewhere. My dealer in LA gives me a two-year warranty on all elective issues, like those two. So far, they've worked perfectly post-fix.
So the only thing left is the water pump and I'll have run the table...

 

I noticed the shudder-on-left-turn-from-stop shortly after I purchased the car. It was subtle. I just figured it was an XK thing. It became steadily more noticeable as time went on, and began happening on right turns as well. Above 10mph it was a non-issue - never felt it. (It's SPECIFICALLY a strong left turn from a complete stop, as when you're cutting left across traffic into a parking lot or the like.)

Obviously this doesn't happen on most XK's. So I'd say: if you don't notice it now, you're probably OK.

 

I'm a little confused with your conclusions here, as they seem contradictory.

Did the dealer seem to recognize it as a known issue with the 2010+ MY e-diff? If so, it's a disturbing prospect even if covered by warranty. It would almost be something you hope to encounter early so that it's covered, but what's to keep it from happening again if it can occur in cars with as few miles as yours? Or did they suggest it was an early production gremlin that's been addressed so that your replacement e-diff shouldn't be susceptible?