Strange. The wiring diagram shows the correct part number:

 

Your running 650 hp in a 3000 lb car and only getting 11.5 ?
I run an LS2 with about 520 in a 4200 lb 95Impala and pull down 12.1

You dragging your feet
and yeah pn for the connector is correct in the diagram , just wrong in the service manual.

 

Unless it’s gone on a diet, it’s closer to 4000 pounds and rear traction sucks for the hook up.

 

Jahummer pretty much summed it up. Traction is not the best off the line on these cars. I would have liked to try drag radials but didn't want to stress the drive train too much so I have stopped before something expensive goes ping!

The prep at the local track wasn't great either as it is part of a race circuit so only the first section had any prep done to it and they didn't put much effort into that unless there was a national race being run.

The tracks in the US seemed to be prepped for the whole quarter mile and a lot of the videos I see are taken at night when the air is cooler which makes for a happier supercharger.

 

OH CRAP, I just noticed NZ LOL Petone / Wellington here , Had a house on Beach Street in Petone. Back in the States now. I see your Issue. Put steering wheel on the RIGHT (LEFT) side and your Good to Go. LOL

 

Bill you still with me ?
Let me approach the issue from a Logic point.

YES I agree with your analysis.

What I was thinking
1. The vehicle is at rest.
2. Key ON
3. EPBM checks for specific Resistance
4. No command is given to either release or apply the EPB
5. Actuator does not run = no current drawn
6. No DTIC occurs.
7. EPB switch can never be moved. Must be Immobilized
8. If it is Moved , Resistor will Pop. Setting DTIC
9. Replace Supply fuse of 30A with a 5 or 3 amp one

Let me know your thoughts.

BTW , I am running the 12v test to the actuator today. Will Post results.

 

What would you do when the park brake needs a reset either from battery disconnect for service or other reason?

 

fuse

Batt disconnect is not an issue. No command has been sent to turn the actuator on.

The service thing , basically what I am trying to do is eliminate the activity. Should the occassion arise where the PBs are serviced for some reason, Yes the fuse would pop , just replace fuse , 3 or 5 amp, and good to go.

At least this is my rationale, I may be all wet.

Bill ?

 

Sorry I wasn't clear. Every time the battery is disconnected or if it goes flat of for certain other services, the actuator MUST be run before the car can even be driven, it's not an option.

 

STOP the Presses. Dang Actuator is running fine. DUH

So Why am I getting a C1785-00 Electric Brake Motor Output Open Circuit ?????

After running the actuator in and out, rechecked the resistance and its reasonable at 0.9 or so.

Back to circuit checking.

 

CV007/1 to CA050/14 disconnected at both ends 0.2 OHM good
CV007/6 to CA050/7 disconnected at both ends 0.2 OHM good

So Now what ????????

 

Change the tread title to RESOLVED. We have Liftoff.

Forget the resistor Idea, just an old mans fantasy. Delete Rewind Delete again.

After doing the electrical checks and confirming that the actuator did indeed work. I put all the connectors back together and reran the scan. Probably got 20 -25 DTICs.

Did a full erase. Turned ignition Off. Turned it back on and started the engine. The usual messages popped up on the screen with 1 exception. Now I see Apply Footbrake and Parking brake where before I got message cant comm with EPBM.

Applied brakes and Voila brakes are working !!!
I hear the actuator run , feel the cables tighten up and Brake message on screen.

Rerun scan and 90% of the DTICS are gone. Remaining ones are Audio and Nav which are a separate issue Im working.

Tomorrow is Test Drive. Biggest issue has been tranny jerking. Hope this cures it.. Pretty sure the whole problem was the EPBM.

EPBM scan does not report any DTICS or issues just a "+" in the results column

Thanks for all the help.

 

So was the issue solved by replacing the module with the borrowed one or the original?

 

Fantastic news! There's a small chance the shifting behaviour needs clearing up with a transmission adaptation reset.

 

So, it appears that the actuator may have been driven too far with manually applied 12v to accomplish PB release during the "unauthorized use".
Your "test" likely returned the actuator to within normal bounds.
Congratulations. It's great that your XK will be working properly and a bit safer.

I have given thought to emulating the actuator, so used the excuse to order a DC clamp-on ammeter and accessories.
Thanks. I need a push!

best regards,
Bill

 

Sean, as far as replacing the module , yes its my opinion that the original module is bad, However,

Bills comment has merit also, if the hall sensor was driven out of range that would explain a possible effect.

Time will tell.

Now I gotta put all the stuff back in that I took out. LOL

 

More on EPBM function from SDD 150.03 Measurement Function, 206-00, Countback Pulse Counter:

"The countback pulse counter shows the electric park brake countback counter input status for the previous application or release of the EPB.
The module will count the number of actuator revolutions on application or release and is able to calculate the electric park brake actuator position. Normal value: Minimum: 0, Maximum: 999."

Explains how manually driving the actuator with 12V and getting out of sequence mucks things.

Sean may be on the right track too. One bad module can provide a wealth of error codes.

I say "wealth of codes" because without SDD, you will spend a lot of money and/or time to resolve issues.

SDD is challenging but fun, once you get the hang of it.

You have a great following, keep us posted.

Bill

 

Follow up

Put about 30 miles on today, runs good, shifts good,
Still some minor DTICs to address. I will post as I go along.


Just wanted to thank all that posted , the amount of help and information available here is amazing.

 

WAY off base here, but I am about to do a battery reset in order to allow the e-brake to re-learn position after a rear brake R&R. If I dis-engage the battery cables and touch them for 30 seconds, then re-connect, is there something else that needs to be done? I'm new to Jags and have no clue what an actuator is, or where...

 

No need to worry. You will see a message on the instrument cluster. It tells you what to do. IIRC it's just putting your foot on the brake pedal and applying the e-brake, then you're set.