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New to snow , any suggestions with coolant and chains XKR 2010

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New to snow , any suggestions with coolant and chains XKR 2010

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Old 12-29-2018, 09:46 PM
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Default New to snow , any suggestions with coolant and chains XKR 2010

i just moved to Santa Fe , This is the 3 Rd time ever driving in snow , sadly my car is parked outside in the snow no garage , sucks but as soon as my house is built Iíll have garage again , Iím in a RV lol , anyway I have been you tubing misc , putting Vaseline on the rubber door jams and I bought snow cables for the back tires , if anyone has suggestions on anything winter and snow related Iíd appreciate it , I drove in a blizzard at 5 miles an hour ,Happy I didnít skid out but close , my restricted performance has been coming on Lately especially when itís cold and and funny enough itís happens a lot going down a slight hill near the police station hmmm very strange , I never know if itís electrical since I have many false readings .. Thanks
 

Last edited by Candyrock; 12-29-2018 at 11:26 PM. Reason: Spelling
  #2  
Old 12-30-2018, 06:54 AM
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I'd not drive mine in snow as seen in your picture, you just don't know what's underneath it.

I lived in Clovis (where my now ex is from) for 6 months and spent some time in SF, thankfully it was Summer though

1) healthy coat of wax to bodywork
2) take a couple of PSI out of your tyres (some disagree with this)
3) get a set of rubber car mats
4) fit a screen cover when car's parked up and snow's forecast
5) switch to winter mode
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 09:16 AM
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+1 on Marky's advice. Also:
  1. Get a combination snow brush/ice scraper with a long handle to clear your windshield, but never use it on any other part of your car as it will scratch the paint. Also, never use hot water to melt the snow as it will crack the glass.
  2. Fortunately, you have a 2010 XKR, the first year for the limited-slip E-Diff. So, instead of just one rear wheel spinning aimlessly in the snow, you'll have both going nowhere - unless you take it slow and easy.
  3. Keep several small bags of Play Sand in the trunk, preferably the kind in a thick plastic bag, and a small shovel. That additional weight over the rear wheels will give you more traction. If you get stuck, you can spread the sand in front of your rear wheels to help you get going again.
  4. Speed is your enemy; momentum is your friend. A newbie driving in snow can get into trouble fast, particularly when going around a curve. If you're going uphill and approaching a stop sign, slow down but don't stop because you might not be able to get going again. Stay at least 50 feet behind a vehicle in front of you. If another vehicle is too close behind you, turn on your emergency flashers to tell him to back off.
How do I know this? That's how I spent the winter of '65 at Mt. Snow, Vermont and never got stuck driving my '60 Vette (4-speed, 4.11 Positraction, and 6.70-15 bias-ply Firestones with no chains).


Better still is to cover your XKR and rent a 4WD until your home is completed or buy a cheap used 4WD beater for the winter.
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Candyrock View Post
Restricted performance has been coming on Lately, I never know if itís electrical since I have many false readings .
So other than being kept outside, used in snow and salt, snow chains mounted, few false readings that the car will die; Its been immaculately cared for.

If its your only car...
Trade it in while you while you will get something for it. You are about to destroy it.
  • Restricted Performance doesnt mean what you think it does. Its not throttling back as you go by a police station. Its a polite British way of saying 'limp home mode'. Its significant. Or allowing you to get to mechanic without tow.
  • Call a car rental company, like Enterprise, and see if they will let you put chains on their cars that they normally allow to be used as trash cans, they wont- cause you can destroy a car with chains- if you dont know what you are doing. And on those low profile tires- you dont know what you are doing. Chains have to be constantly put on and removed- in the snow. Can you jack that car in the snow?
  • This is not the car to learn winter driving on- for many many reasons
In New Mexico even if you were an experienced winter driver your car will get trashed, cause they throw that lava rock on the roads and the roads are not well maintained. I am passing through Albuquerque on I40 in a truck, and snow plow is blowing snow (with those rocks mixed in) in the opposite lane, away from the road- till a strong gust comes from nowhere and I get the entire top half of my truck sandblasted free of charge.

I took the effort to warn you because I care for the car and company.

 
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Old 12-30-2018, 11:45 AM
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Good advice.
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 11:46 AM
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Restricted performance could be because the cats do not get up to temperature in the combination of cold and slow driving.

You need to plug in to your car and see what is up ASAP on that one.
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Stuart S View Post
I spent the winter of '65 at Mt. Snow, Vermont and never got stuck driving my '60 Vette (4-speed, 4.11 Positraction, and 6.70-15 bias-ply Firestones with no chains).
Cause you knew girls would push you out of the ditch if it came to it.

Man you yanks were so much luckier than us. Hardly no one in their youth could afford a car, let alone a super hot sports car.
You know what I had to do to have your fun- fall real hard on purpose and make sure the skis fell a good 3 minutes away.
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 12:31 PM
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Tall skinny tires, fat ones will put you in the ditch...
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 12:37 PM
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Park the Jag, get a 4X4 beater with a good heater and tires and you'll be ok. It will also give you time to fix the restricted perf issues too.
Oh, keep in mind that nothing works well at all if the road is ice covered.
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 12:38 PM
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We have winter mode? Doubt it will help. Not built for snow
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 12:44 PM
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"Winter Mode" is a fancy name for "Valet Mode". I engage it whenever I give my car to a valet. It does make quite a bit of difference.
 
  #12  
Old 12-30-2018, 02:53 PM
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Default Thanks guys , just wondering about coolant too

i was researching the coolant to water ratio , seemed like in snow to use less water so itís stronger ? Iím not selling the car itís almost paid off ,Hell its cheaper to buy a whole new engine then go buy a crappy yuck car .. Iíve had it since it was new and Iíve taken very good care of it , being from warm climate places in my life , I did use common sense driving and did all those things that were suggested lol and Iím a Girl .. just putting those cables on are a bitch . I think no matter what car Iím in itís the ice thatís the scary part and itís in spotty places so Iím hesitant on even driving at all .. cheaper for me to stay in and not work then to go blow money on other cars , this snow is unual for over here , hopefully itís for a short time , at some point I will get a 2 nd car or SUV .. thanks for all your advice more is welcome , as for restricted performance some times itís comes on but I donít feel that limp mode when it slows down , ever since I changed my battery at the 4 year mark I had electrical issues and false readings even if you get it diagnosed by plugging that thing in most of it is wrong .. about 6 months ago I put a new Alternator in cuz the car battery would die after four days , so far the car is doing well and going on 100,000 miles .
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 03:13 PM
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Ok.
There is nothing you need to do mechanically to drive in the snow.
Traction is the only concern and other drivers.
Secondarily, the salt and trash, and potholes that will be covered with snow.

One thing that I would do given the conditions you put forth: Buy a second set of cheap wheels, you can get them for as low as $700.
Mount the best winter tires to them you can- they will be much better than chains. Forget chains. I guarantee you they will cause you many thousands of dollars in damage.
You can take the wheels off (and you must) once snow and ice are gone. Good snow tires are damaged when there is no snow on the ground.
The wheels you have now are too fragile for NM and snow.
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 03:20 PM
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Here is an example. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/market/209872
I believe these will work for you. And as you can see he was doing the same thing I suggested.
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 05:59 PM
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Instead of buying winter wheels and snow tires, put that money into a 4X4 beater. You can probably sell that beater for what you paid for it; not so likely for used wheels and tires.
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 07:02 PM
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Default Thank you , thatís a great suggestion


Iím wondering since I use the company discount tire if warranty covers any damage with chains or cables? they are not open till wed Iíll call find out and or look at my warranty , mine are cables I got them on so I can at least get out of the spot I was in , this winter snow I believe is temporary according to the residents here ..



Nothing on the front only the back

Cables







Originally Posted by Queen and Country View Post
Here is an example. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/market/209872
I believe these will work for you. And as you can see he was doing the same thing I suggested.
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 07:45 PM
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Good for you and you're a real trooper. Better then us pansies who store the cars for the winter. LOL. Good luck and stay safe.
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Candyrock View Post

Iím wondering since I use the company discount tire if warranty covers any damage with chains or cables?


Their warranty and liability is simple- if you only use these chains (they are also called chains(except in Colorado), but not as robust) on snow and ice only and never exceed 30mph.
So if you do that you will be fine. What happens is that the road surface disintegrates them rather quickly, and if you are driving normal speeds that chain will fly out like a missile.
That's why you wont see them being used in places where it snows all the time. You will see truckers putting them on and taking them off as soon as they hit dry road. They are very temporary and not a good solution for sports cars.

Here are to a slightly better cable/chain- they have the automatic tensioner in the middle that avoids some of the problems mentioned above. But the instructs should be the same for your chain.
https://www.peerlesschain.com/wp-con...Z6_install.pdf
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 08:40 PM
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Default Awesome ,more great info

I totally appreciate that info , I was taken by surprise by the snow , there was barely a sprinkle last year and Iíve only lived here a year . I know next year when I have garage I will have all the goodies to be prepared and hopefully a beater SUV with snow tires ..
 
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Old 12-30-2018, 09:57 PM
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As someone who drives in the snow a lot, I put my Jag away for the winter. You want clearance, dedicated winter tires, and all wheel drive. Get used to having winter car and summer car.

Chains you have are for when you are surprised by very early or very late out of season snow storm and have to drive without winter tires - it is like driving on a spare tire. More so, by putting them only on rear wheels you are creating dangerous situation - your rear tires will maintain grip while your front wheels will lose grip. This means you will lose steering input while maintaining throttle input.

Also, snow also means road salt. Your nice car will rust in a hurry. You need to do drip oil spray for any car to have a fighting chance against rust.

If you read nothing else, please read this: Get winter/snow tires right away and get rid of your chains.
 

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