New XKR owner - ticking engine & intermittent lumpy 1500RPM
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2021
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From: cheshire
Thank you.
The car is 2010 XKR 5.0. 106k miles & has documented history up until 82k then stamps, then a stamped book from there in. All services done within 10k miles of each other. Last service was done at a local garage it seems so who knows what they have used in terms of oil etc. There is also no documentation regarding the water pump, which I believe should have failed before 82k miles.. so either it didn't fail or some items have been missed through its history that have actually been replaced (hopefully).
This garage is a Jag specialist, although a large garage so I'm unsure as to how much effort they have put into diagnostics at present as I had to deal with a reception staff member, albeit he sounded knowledgable.
The garage said that the carbon is excessive, and that the front cats got very hot in the past. Excessive carbon means something isn't working the way it should down there, some moving part within the cat.
Can you tell me the differences between replacement of the snout and an overhaul? I believe the labour is the main cost here.
It only happens when the engine is warm (ticking noise)
I'll get a video and post that up too. Thank you
The car is 2010 XKR 5.0. 106k miles & has documented history up until 82k then stamps, then a stamped book from there in. All services done within 10k miles of each other. Last service was done at a local garage it seems so who knows what they have used in terms of oil etc. There is also no documentation regarding the water pump, which I believe should have failed before 82k miles.. so either it didn't fail or some items have been missed through its history that have actually been replaced (hopefully).
This garage is a Jag specialist, although a large garage so I'm unsure as to how much effort they have put into diagnostics at present as I had to deal with a reception staff member, albeit he sounded knowledgable.
The garage said that the carbon is excessive, and that the front cats got very hot in the past. Excessive carbon means something isn't working the way it should down there, some moving part within the cat.
Can you tell me the differences between replacement of the snout and an overhaul? I believe the labour is the main cost here.
It only happens when the engine is warm (ticking noise)
I'll get a video and post that up too. Thank you
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2021
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From: cheshire
Its not booked into the garage until a month. It maybe worth me giving it an oil change just to see if that effects anything anyway.. but could that be more money thrown away if I need to get the snout done at some point anyway..
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Very good,
Most probably the carbon cleaning will need to get completed. I do not have the DI engine, but I do have the same mileage and the car engine is smoother and “settled” following that job.
As I understand it, the 5.0 is much more particular about oil weight than the 4.2. But I can discern immediately when the wrong weight was on 2 occasions put in mine.
I enjoy reading about the 5.0... and how some seem to focus on a particular issue with their car and assume it is a global pandemic
.
I for one would not replace a water pump until I am certain there is an issue.
Ditto for timing chains and guides.
Ditto for...
Many overlook the importance of replacement of actual expected replaceable parts. Belts, bearings, tensioners all fall within this category. I add injectors, spark plugs... because I’m **** that way.
Again the dealer has the knowledge database. And this is much more useful than just reading individual tech notices.
You are right about the snout issue. It is a known issue and the DIY people do the overhaul. It will take marginally more time. There is a coupler wearing on the inside. I on the other hand would just bite the bullet and get the new snout. But lets be clear : Is the rattle and tick from the snout or from some other area. It will be very clear to the professional. Those without the experience play this game of replace this and that until by some coincidence things SEEM magically fixed.
Professionally I am an Enterprise Software Architect. The value of the knowledge database trumps all technotes.
Most probably the carbon cleaning will need to get completed. I do not have the DI engine, but I do have the same mileage and the car engine is smoother and “settled” following that job.
As I understand it, the 5.0 is much more particular about oil weight than the 4.2. But I can discern immediately when the wrong weight was on 2 occasions put in mine.
I enjoy reading about the 5.0... and how some seem to focus on a particular issue with their car and assume it is a global pandemic
.I for one would not replace a water pump until I am certain there is an issue.
Ditto for timing chains and guides.
Ditto for...
Many overlook the importance of replacement of actual expected replaceable parts. Belts, bearings, tensioners all fall within this category. I add injectors, spark plugs... because I’m **** that way.
Again the dealer has the knowledge database. And this is much more useful than just reading individual tech notices.
You are right about the snout issue. It is a known issue and the DIY people do the overhaul. It will take marginally more time. There is a coupler wearing on the inside. I on the other hand would just bite the bullet and get the new snout. But lets be clear : Is the rattle and tick from the snout or from some other area. It will be very clear to the professional. Those without the experience play this game of replace this and that until by some coincidence things SEEM magically fixed.
Professionally I am an Enterprise Software Architect. The value of the knowledge database trumps all technotes.
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Junior Member
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From: cheshire
Thank you, it all makes sense. I took it to the Jag specialist after learning from my own life experiences in trying to fix things "on the cheap" and it ending costing more, therefore I bit the bullet and went straight in. They say that there is a rattle when the engine is turned off (I listened out for this when purchasing the vehicle and didn't hear anything then nor now, but they obviously can) which points to the supercharger. I would expect they should have a good indication, but they did say that the "ticking" may need more investigation once the above jobs are done. I presume that could mean replicating many man hours, and to help avoid this I'll get a video of the main ticking noise and try to isolate exactly where it is coming from, and post up here.
Do you know where I can find out which belts, bearings, tensioners are included in the maintenance, and are you aware what else I can replace whilst the snout is being done?
I was actually looking for a 4.2 but this one came up for sale. I got it for a little over £13k in the end which seems very cheap, therefore didn't expect it to be perfect. Albeit if I spend much more on it then it would be getting to what I could have got a pristine lower mileage example. I do love the car though, its almost too effortless Also I got 32mpg coming home, which is nuts. Its back to 14mpg now though as I can't keep my foot off that pedal. Currently too scared to drive it too far until I get a few more bits sorted (the thought of dodgy oil in there isn't ideal)
Do you know where I can find out which belts, bearings, tensioners are included in the maintenance, and are you aware what else I can replace whilst the snout is being done?
I was actually looking for a 4.2 but this one came up for sale. I got it for a little over £13k in the end which seems very cheap, therefore didn't expect it to be perfect. Albeit if I spend much more on it then it would be getting to what I could have got a pristine lower mileage example. I do love the car though, its almost too effortless
Also I got 32mpg coming home, which is nuts. Its back to 14mpg now though as I can't keep my foot off that pedal. Currently too scared to drive it too far until I get a few more bits sorted (the thought of dodgy oil in there isn't ideal)
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From: Somerset UK
Amoor as a matter of interest what were the emissions readings at the last MOT?
Mine at last Thursdays MOT as follows:
Fast
HC = 10ppm
Lambda = 1
Natural
CO = 0.20
These were also the readings before I had a Terraclean carbon clean and GDI clean and have been ever since. Yep it drove better, but was it worth the £350 I spent...probably not.
Natch the above probs not going to mean much to those on t'other side of the pond.
Best I've had is 34mpg* on a 300 non-stop drive (Somerset to Cumbria), but the only way to effectively test the accuracy is with brim to brim fills and not the trip computer which can be a little optimistic
* equates to 28mpg for the US gallon which is 17% smaller
Mine at last Thursdays MOT as follows:
Fast
HC = 10ppm
Lambda = 1
Natural
CO = 0.20
These were also the readings before I had a Terraclean carbon clean and GDI clean and have been ever since. Yep it drove better, but was it worth the £350 I spent...probably not.
Natch the above probs not going to mean much to those on t'other side of the pond.
Best I've had is 34mpg* on a 300 non-stop drive (Somerset to Cumbria), but the only way to effectively test the accuracy is with brim to brim fills and not the trip computer which can be a little optimistic
* equates to 28mpg for the US gallon which is 17% smaller
Last edited by MarkyUK; Apr 9, 2021 at 07:46 AM.
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Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 522
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From: Durham, NC
Hi and thank you for your wonderful forum. I've spent many hours reading previous threads, and there is some fantastic advice and people here.. so thank you and looking forward to being a small part in future.
I have just purchased my first XKR 5.0 after spending a long time looking. It was the cheapest I'd seen (wasn't expecting to get into a 5.0), 105k miles, full service history every 10k miles but lacking documentation relating to major maintenance (water pump etc) other than some recent mechanical work. Therefore I'm going in with eyes open and lets say that I like a 'punt' now and then, which it seems many of these are anyway no matter what the mileage.
I've 2 potential issues at the moment which weren't obvious when I was buying the vehicle.
Firstly - ticking engine when warm idle (sewing machine), and every few seconds the revs dip slightly before going back up. The ticking is tied to the engine speed (it increases in tempo as the revs increase). This is INTERMITTENT so doesn't happen that often. It goes away after a little drive or left to sit there for 10/15 seconds. Sometimes I get another slight lumpy sound which continues through the exhaust too which is around 3 times per second in rhythm, slightly lower knocking noise. I'm overly exaggerating the sounds, its a noisy engine anyway and maybe others won't think there is an issue, but it certainly sounds very similar to the timing tensioner issue in other topics.
Am I right in thinking that the order in which I should try to find out if there is an issue is to get it plugged in, and also give the engine a flush? Then get the oil checked (and check there is money in the bank account :/)
I may be jumping the gun here, but if it is timing chain tensioners should we change the chain and other components and are these still readily available? Is there a list in which other components to change and does anyone know a rough idea of parts costs for the whole job? (I won't be doing this myself but have found elsewhere some estimations of labour hours)
Secondly - On the way home I changed gear manually doing around 60 mph and then at around 1500RPM it lumped forward and backwards, like it was running out of fuel or just had issues maintaining the timing. Once I changed gear it went away, only happened twice and I couldn't get it to replicate it again. Does anyone have experience in what this could be related to (obviously I'm guessing its tied into the above issue but also read about other causes in other topics)?
Thanks in advance, obviously I'm not that mechanically minded therefore please excuse any mistakes.
and looking forward to being a small part in future.I have just purchased my first XKR 5.0 after spending a long time looking. It was the cheapest I'd seen (wasn't expecting to get into a 5.0), 105k miles, full service history every 10k miles but lacking documentation relating to major maintenance (water pump etc) other than some recent mechanical work. Therefore I'm going in with eyes open and lets say that I like a 'punt' now and then, which it seems many of these are anyway no matter what the mileage.
I've 2 potential issues at the moment which weren't obvious when I was buying the vehicle.
Firstly - ticking engine when warm idle (sewing machine), and every few seconds the revs dip slightly before going back up. The ticking is tied to the engine speed (it increases in tempo as the revs increase). This is INTERMITTENT so doesn't happen that often. It goes away after a little drive or left to sit there for 10/15 seconds. Sometimes I get another slight lumpy sound which continues through the exhaust too which is around 3 times per second in rhythm, slightly lower knocking noise. I'm overly exaggerating the sounds, its a noisy engine anyway and maybe others won't think there is an issue, but it certainly sounds very similar to the timing tensioner issue in other topics.
Am I right in thinking that the order in which I should try to find out if there is an issue is to get it plugged in, and also give the engine a flush? Then get the oil checked (and check there is money in the bank account :/)
I may be jumping the gun here, but if it is timing chain tensioners should we change the chain and other components and are these still readily available? Is there a list in which other components to change and does anyone know a rough idea of parts costs for the whole job? (I won't be doing this myself but have found elsewhere some estimations of labour hours)
Secondly - On the way home I changed gear manually doing around 60 mph and then at around 1500RPM it lumped forward and backwards, like it was running out of fuel or just had issues maintaining the timing. Once I changed gear it went away, only happened twice and I couldn't get it to replicate it again. Does anyone have experience in what this could be related to (obviously I'm guessing its tied into the above issue but also read about other causes in other topics)?
Thanks in advance, obviously I'm not that mechanically minded therefore please excuse any mistakes.
Last edited by Barry Leftwich; Apr 10, 2021 at 04:19 AM.
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From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Quite right Barry. And thanks for providing that info Marky.
To your question Amoor, the service manual lies out those components to be checked or replaced. I go a little further and replace belts, bearing and tensioners the moment I hear a sound I don’t like.
Barry has a point. fyi, I am on my 3rd set of catalytic converters. There’s a reason for this. Think of the purpose of a cat. It will be restricted overtime. And a mal or mis functioning injector will aid this inefficient situation. Unlike many others I prefer to respect mother nature and would never dream of removing them. But around 50000 km mark I do replace them... of course there was that one time at the Montreal GP... what a fun night... with the unexpected immediate costs associated with the necessary replacements of overheated cc’s. Worth every penny.
To your question Amoor, the service manual lies out those components to be checked or replaced. I go a little further and replace belts, bearing and tensioners the moment I hear a sound I don’t like.
Barry has a point. fyi, I am on my 3rd set of catalytic converters. There’s a reason for this. Think of the purpose of a cat. It will be restricted overtime. And a mal or mis functioning injector will aid this inefficient situation. Unlike many others I prefer to respect mother nature and would never dream of removing them. But around 50000 km mark I do replace them... of course there was that one time at the Montreal GP... what a fun night... with the unexpected immediate costs associated with the necessary replacements of overheated cc’s. Worth every penny.
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2021
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From: cheshire
Thanks Guys
The garage checked the codes and said they were all historical and not of any relevance, small issues. Should any issues with the Cats and also fuel injectors pop up on the reader? Otherwise how would i get them checked? I've an independent mechanic who I can use for smaller jobs so will also ask there.
I wouldn't want to get the snout changed, carbon clean, then be told they need to dig deeper to find this other ticking which ends up being another job thats even bigger.. not sure what other options there are atm. Will get more opinions, waiting on a different specialist to get back to me. Thanks again and will keep you updated
The garage checked the codes and said they were all historical and not of any relevance, small issues. Should any issues with the Cats and also fuel injectors pop up on the reader? Otherwise how would i get them checked? I've an independent mechanic who I can use for smaller jobs so will also ask there.
I wouldn't want to get the snout changed, carbon clean, then be told they need to dig deeper to find this other ticking which ends up being another job thats even bigger.. not sure what other options there are atm. Will get more opinions, waiting on a different specialist to get back to me. Thanks again and will keep you updated
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,689
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From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Glad the mechanic checked the codes. I’m one who records “insignificant historical” to identify trends.
Absolutely, there are codes for most? or all? sensors and components. This includes the two O2 sensors on the cats.
Out of interest, and not suggesting this is a cure or maintenance requirement; when’s the last time you ‘punched’ it?? An Italian tuneup. If there are insignificant or your “aged’ codes to be thrown, undoubtedly it will be during this event??
Absolutely, there are codes for most? or all? sensors and components. This includes the two O2 sensors on the cats.
Out of interest, and not suggesting this is a cure or maintenance requirement; when’s the last time you ‘punched’ it?? An Italian tuneup. If there are insignificant or your “aged’ codes to be thrown, undoubtedly it will be during this event??
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