The challenge is, even if you could find air with 10% humidity, your compressor will turn it into 100% plus. Because it spits out air and water separately.
You could start with a clean tank and clean it after each tire ....or just keep a tank of nitrogen, its dirt cheap ($10), now you got compressed air for sensitive electronics and lenses, and air filers.

 

 

Instantly reset itself. Never came on since.

Normally when I air up the tires myself to get rid of TMPS errors, it takes a while for it to adjust and get its bearings.
Must be the complete deflate- inflate and repeat cycle that did it.

 

 

Any Costco, they are everywhere.
I dont understand what everyone is saying about green caps??
They just put air in the tires, no hardware change.

 

You bring up an interesting bit.

Oxidation.

Oxygen doesn't need a hot date, a cold one will do, just takes longer.

 

 

Did you follow the prescription. Deflate- inflate- deflate- inflate?

 

(75n + 25a) = 100 <------ where 100 is full inflation
(75n + 25a) - 20% = (60n + 20a)
(60n + 20a) + 20n = 100 = (80n + 20a)

Unless you had your tires 100% professionally purged before you added nitrogen, you merely increased the percentage marginally, about 6%.

 

 

Just curious here is there certain years in which there are more TPMS issues then other years. Also has this been with OEM original sensors before a tire change or after a tire change. How old have the sensors been in the tires and have the batteries been tested. Are most of the problems related to weather change either cold or hot. Has anyone either had a dealer or indy or yourself check that the antenna's are OK and in place. Are all of the tire pressures at the door sticker recommendations as well as the tire size . So far I have had 1 TPMS trigger on my 2012 and it was due to a low pressure relating to a nail in my tire. On my Lexus it happened once when I had a bad sensor battery.

 

My TPMS comes on at the same time every year without fail.
My TPMS has never been wrong. Its all original.

 

Jagtoes….I'm sure this has been asked before because you've talked about your sensor, but I couldn't find the model. Please let us know. My Ruby, although not giving any TPMS units (except when I had a nail) never gave me a fault, but they are from ~2010.

Best,
~WRAIR

 

 

I assume all have either looked it up or know that the TPMS sensor battery life is between 5-10 years. Also considering tires usually make it to 4 years it is recommended to change the sensors when buying new tires. As an example my 2010 Lexus had 1 battery failure so far with 2 others now registering low battery. I don't believe it is a mileage issue but an age issue.

 

My local indy was doing some work on my XK8 a few years back and had just acquired a nitrogen flush/refill machine (proper job) and gave me a fill for free so I ran it for a while (20" rims, 4.2L 2005 model) and at that time I was doing a weekly commute of about 200 miles each way. What I found was - No. Difference. Whatsoever.

My conclusion? Snake Oil.

 

I believe the purpose of this thread is not to tell you that will notice a difference; but that you could notice a difference.

Similar to taking a vacation on a cruise ship that doesn't have life boats; it may not be at all different from one that does.

Although this illustration is more drastic; "Air" is far more variable than nitrogen.

What one person's air supply may be might not be the same as another's.

The information is being provided for our benefit, take it or leave it as needed.

 

When a person buys their first lottery ticket, they improve their chance of winning infinitely.
Buying a SECOND ticket DOUBLES their chance of winning.
A third ticket merely increases their chances by fifty percent.
etcetera, etcetera...

Going to 100% nitrogen only removes 25% NOT-nitrogen.
Worth doing? Maybe.
Worth my time right now? Probably not.

Besides, nowadays with all the lunatics in charge of stuff, atmosphere is like 20% carbon anyway.

 

I have an Autel TS501 TPMS sensor tester. It will program their sensors which cost $28 each. It also will plug into the OBDII port and interrogate the TPMS module allowing for moving sensor ID's to any location on the car. It also can turn off the TPMS light on the dash and it will test the battery life of your key FOB.

 

Having thought about this a lot since this thread started, I think the only benefit is that the moisture is removed from the air.

No moisture may indeed make the TPMS sensors last longer, perform better, if they are degraded or affected by moisture or water, which is likely .
No moisture will ensure that liquid water does not condense and roll around inside your tires, possibly affecting the balance of your tires.
No moisture means that the tire pressure will change with temperature, but not to the same degree as if water was condensing out of the gas.

Lastly, the point about oxygen being present may affect the rubber. How, I am not sure. But, the rubber will also be affected by the oxygen on the outside of the tire. I suspect that the wear by driving will far outweigh the effects of oxygen on the rubber.