I like to do some basic maintenance on my cars. Changing the oil is a regular maintenance task that I like to do in my garage to get to know and appreciate how lucky I am to own one of these fine cars. My Jag is a 2011 XKR 175 with less than 4,000 miles. I have a few simple questions before I do my first oil change.

1. What is everyone using for oil. I'm thinking about Castrol Edge titanium 5W-20 which meets Ford WSS-M2C945-A.


2. Where is the drain plug. I've read somewhere the oil needs to be extracted with a special tool which seems weird.

3. There appears to be no dip stick to measure filling level. Do you leave the car monitor switched on and read the electronic gauge to indicate oil level until full and also keep an eye on the gauge as you approach the required oil amount.

3. Location of oil filter and recommended brand.

4. Any special tools required to remove and install oil filter.

5. Does anyone else do their oil change.


Thanks for your help and merry Christmas.

 

I don't think you'll be able to perform the change yourself without some proprietary equipment from Jag.. I believe the 5.0 lacks a traditional drain plug. I've the workshop manual for to 2010+ XK/XKR and it doesn't say much. I'll go have a look for ya. If I find anything I'll post it up!

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BTW: I'm changin' my oil today, as I was told that my '07 XKR lacked a plug, etc... I was elated to find otherwise! So, I'd be happy to help a fellow wrencher! (Last change at Orlando Aston/Jag left my cabin smelling like burning oil for weeks, so I'll be handling this one. Plus, some euro shop stripped the threads out of my oil pan on my previous Jag, and didn't bother mentioning it to me. I found out upon investigating a slow drip from the plug weeks later; there it was staring me in the face: a helicoil. Oh god.) No sir, not happening to this Jag!

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-change-86896/

Many thanks.

 

I can see why Jaguar put an oil extractor tube in the 5.0 engine oil fill. I guess I'm kind of old fashioned because it seems better to gravity drain the old oil and [hopefully no] sludge] from the bottom of the pan. And yes the engine has a drain plug. I found the parts diagrams and the Part Number is: AJ88461. It's like $14, but I don't think I'll be using it very often, because....

When I put the car up on the lift to see whats what; it turns out there are 21 separate torx bolts & 2 screws just to remove the radiator splash shield. Plus to reinstall, you have to line up the two (2) air guides and their fasteners with the shield's brackets. The panel comes off OK, and the oil pan drain bolt is easily accessed; but it is such a PITA and removing the radiator splash shield will take about twice the amount of time as it would to drain the oil the old fashioned way, not counting the time to get it in the air.

It appears the underbody panels were engineered into the front end body structure for rigidity and support, primarily for the facia. There's probably some air management flow going on as well. Either way its more part of the body than just an access panel.

So it's time to get an oil extractor. Another tool to make life easier in the garage.

 

[QUOTE=GordoCatCar;1712703]I can see why Jaguar put an oil extractor tube in the 5.0 engine oil fill. I guess I'm kind of old fashioned because it seems better to gravity drain the old oil and [hopefully no] sludge] from the bottom of the pan. And yes the engine has a drain plug. I found the parts diagrams and the Part Number is: AJ8846. It's like $14, but I don't think I'll be using it very often, because....

When I put the car up on the lift to see whats what; it turns out there are 21 separate torx bolts & 2 screws just to remove the radiator splash shield. Plus to reinstall, you have to line up the two (2) air guides and their fasteners with the shield's brackets. The panel comes off OK, and the oil pan drain bolt is easily accessed; but it is such a PITA and removing the radiator splash shield will take about twice the amount of time as it would to drain the oil the old fashioned way, not counting the time to get it in the air.

It appears the underbody panels were engineered into the front end body structure for rigidity and support, primarily for the facia. There's probably some air management flow going on as well. Either way its more part of the body than just an access panel.

So it's time to get an oil extractor. Another tool to make life easier in the garage.

If you still want to drain from the pan you can cut out a hole in the plastic panel and attach a Fumoto oil valve . Then fabricate a patch panel to cover the hole . Shouldn't be a problem.

 

That's a stellar idea Jagtoes....I'll look into that. Thx

 

Gordo,
This will be a test of your patience. It was for me too, especially when we love our method and tools. I had mentioned earlier that the intent was to save you trouble, not cause it.

Few reason to enjoy your new purchase:
The lowest point on the oil is where the siphon tube is and not the drain plug.
The oil contamination factor from just few ounces of the old to the new is way greater on this engine- you will discover later.
Now the thin oil will make new sense. That thing takes forever to siphon 10weight oil.

Reminder: save a quart of the oil you pull out- should you have problems in the future, you will be able to tell from this quart a whole bunch of things.

 

6 AJ88461 Drain Plug
Lower Oil Pan Drain Plug
5.0 W/O SUPERCHARGER

 

1. What is everyone using for oil. I'm thinking about Castrol Edge titanium 5W-20 which meets Ford WSS-M2C945-A.
It is not clear that the WSS-M2C945-A spec supercedes the WSS-M2C925-A spec for this engine. I have not found any documentation that shows they are interchangeable. In an email exchange with Mobile 1 tech support they said they do NOT have an oil that meets the WSS-M2C925-A specs. I know these engines are very sensitive to volatiles in the oil. The PCV valve puts these into the intake manifold and they gunk up the valves. Since these are direct injection engines the fuel is introduced directly into the combustion chamber and does NOT clean any oil junk from the valves as on the previous engines. The WSS-M2C925-A oil MAY be less prone to gunk up the intake valves so that is what I use. (Google "direct injection engine problems" and decide what you want to use.) The only place I found the WSS-M2C925-A oil [Castrol Edge Profesional OE] is on ebay. Some say Jag dealers will sell it. Others say they won't.

2. Where is the drain plug. I've read somewhere the oil needs to be extracted with a special tool which seems weird.
I think there is a drain plug but it is a PITA to get to. I use a 12V Flojet LF pump and some tubing from Home Depot to suck the oil out. You can find the pumps on ebay for less than $30. It is a LOT easier than crawling under the car to remove a plug.

3. There appears to be no dip stick to measure filling level. Do you leave the car monitor switched on and read the electronic gauge to indicate oil level until full and also keep an eye on the gauge as you approach the required oil amount.
I measured the oil that came out on the first oil change and put that much back in. It will be a little low because some came out with the filter. Top it off using the dash gauge.

3. Location of oil filter and recommended brand.
Under the engine shroud - top center. Look an Amazon. There are not too many choices. I personally don't think there is any significant difference in them but everybody has their favorite.

4. Any special tools required to remove and install oil filter.
Strap wrench.

5. Does anyone else do their oil change.
In almost 50 years of driving, and 13 Jags, I have done EVERY oil change on every one of my cars myself. It takes me longer to drive somewhere and have someone else do it than to just do it myself.

 

Agree w/ davchr on all points in response to DGL inquiry.

Would like to add, there are three (3) basic opinions on which brand of oil maybe used:

1.) Those owners with cars still under warranty. The Castrol Edge Pro has an ultraviolet additive which easily allows dealer techs to confirm the specified oil is being used by the owner thereby validating the Jaguar Warranty. If you're still under warranty, this is your choice. No leeway here.

2.) Those who feel that Jaguar has for whatever reasons specified that only the Edge Pro is will properly protect their engine; and consequently the proponents of this group will only use the Castrol Edge Pro. They argue its not that much more in cost, so why tempt fate with brands that are not specifically approved by Jaguar for our engines. For those off warranty owners who continue using dealers to change the oil, this is a non-issuse. For owners who wish to change their oil, the issue becomes where and/or how to procure Edge Pro, since its open market availability is limited, and even its purchase at Jaguar dealers is not guaranteed.

3.) Those who feel that other brands and blends of oil, meeting Jaguar specifications are acceptable substitutes. The issue then becomes the translation of the Jaguar proprietary specification into industry wide commercial standards. Unfortunately, Jaguar is not clear or forthcoming about the the acceptable equivalents. The closest they come is to recommend the Ford spec, if Edge Pro is unavailable. The lack of clarity is significant in that Jaguar doesn't authorize its use as an equivalent; but merely allow it use as acceptable [when owners can not obtain the Edge Pro}. So rather than provide documentation which could be used to select other brands, Jaguar's seemingly reluctant recommendation only serves to compound the the on-going debate on what other oils can be used.

 

I looked at my Castrol Edge Professional OE oil with an ultraviolet light and could see NO difference between it and Mobil 1 that I had on the shelf.

 

A. You don't have the correct authorized Jaguar special-kind-of light to see the secret additive.

B. The Jaguar secret additive as seen by the special-kind-of light is a hoax perpetrated by unknown forces. Probably the Illuminati.

 

I vote for B.

 

I dont know what you are doing but its clear as day under ultravoilet.
It fact its been to keep fake oil off the market and it has for the most part.

 

Bull. Your "Fake Oil" is Fake News.

Lets put this to bed once and for all. Here is a photo under ultraviolet light of Castrol Edge Professional OE, meeting the Ford WSS M2C925-A spec as specified in the Owner's Handbook, next a drop of Mobil 1. The ink markings under the oil dots are UV ink and clearly glow under the UV light.


Here is a photo of the oil container specs.

 

Dave, I am going to request that you be banned, this is a break from protocol using empirical data. Not acceptable, not at all!

Clearly the label says it all, "IT'S MORE THAN OIL. IT'S LIQUID ENGINEERING". We all need close our eyes, slow our minds, and accept what we are told.

 

I suspected you were doing something not right.
Only because it is important to others.

Its not meant to glow as a drop. They would have to put needless amounts of dye to make a drop glow, on white paper no less.

The bottle below that is glowing like uranium is new sealed oil. Castrol Pro OE.
The bottle thats not glowing is full with the same oil that is used. No need to even compare with Mobil 1 and others.


Now with a half bottle of new oil and a full bottle of used oil. You can see the oil glowing clearly.

 

Incidentally if you could demonstrate that the Castrol oil doesnt glow- you could win millions suing BP for advertising 'the oil that glows'

 

I should be banned for pouring cold water on fantasies

 

If the 'used' Edge Pro does NOT glow; then how can a Jaguar technician verify the oil in the crankcase is Edge Pro?

Isn't that the defined purpose of the dye? To confirm that the Jaguar specified oil has been used in accordance with terms of the warranty?

Something is not right here. gordo