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On my '07 XKR I just wired a switch across fuse 19 so that I could depower it. The switch lived under the arm rest and the wires ran from the back of the centre console and under the hump between the rear seats to the fuse box. Very quick and simple to do.
Did you have to drill any holes in the arm rest / console to get the switch in there? I am considering doing the same thing so I can power it back on for long motorway journeys.
No. If you pull the rubber tray at the bottom of the arm rest compartment out you will find some holes. I just fed the wire through one of those then put the tray back.
The switch just lay loose in the bottom and I could raise the console lid and flick the switch while driving.
When I say wire the switch across the fuse, I mean the fuse holder obviously and with the fuse removed, otherwise you won't achieve anything!
I used something like this to extend the circuit then fed the wire from the switch into the other side of the socket via an inline fuse:
It was then very quick to swap back to factory standard when I sold the car.
Yes I know what you mean, I used one of those for an extra power outlet in the armrest a while ago.
My point is, your switch doesn't actually control the opening/closing of the exhaust valves. It just controls power on/off to the vacuum pump. The ECM still opens/closes the valves in your setup.
Not sure why you think that. With the switch live the ECM will control the valve as per factory. With the switch off the exhaust valves are depowered so permanently open which is what I thought people were trying to achieve?
Not sure why you think that. With the switch live the ECM will control the valve as per factory.
i believe what he's saying is, he's bypassing the ECM for this very reason, so the new switch puts the valve state directly under his control.
when you say "wire the switch across the fuse" you're talking about the circuit tied to the ECM, not a separate switched one. it might be wise to have some fuse in the circuit sure... but not fuse 19.
Rigged 2 wires going from the control valve 12V supply and connector back towards the fuse box and center console. Then I grounded the other connector wire. Looks something like this:
Still trying to figure out if the ECM opens or closes the circuit to open/close the valve. I may have to reverse the polarity or modify the valves later on. Guess the only way to find out is to test it.
Also had the exhaust out so it was a good time to cut the valves out. Just waiting on a silicone coupler tube to avoid having to weld anything.
hmm... not sure i would have chopped those out. pulling fuse 19 has the same effect and is nondestructive so the part could have been sold later. but, then, you'd still need a pair of cutouts. i suppose adding aftermarket cutouts where you plan to move these to might be too troublesome, i don't know.
but, now, if you flip your switch to the quiet setting... it isn't. the previously un-chopped-out valves are permanently gone, which is the same as the open state of the stock configuration. so your switch is "loud" and "louder," yea? suits me!
as for the logic on the ECM circuit, given how fuse 19 works, doesn't that necessarily mean the circuit opens to open the valve? i think to be certain of exactly how it works, you can put the wheels in the air, a multimeter at the valve's solder points, and observe whether a throttle input that you know will open the valves changes voltage; i think it probably does.
hmm... not sure i would have chopped those out. pulling fuse 19 has the same effect and is nondestructive so the part could have been sold later. but, then, you'd still need a pair of cutouts. i suppose adding aftermarket cutouts where you plan to move these to might be too troublesome, i don't know.
but, now, if you flip your switch to the quiet setting... it isn't. the previously un-chopped-out valves are permanently gone, which is the same as the open state of the stock configuration. so your switch is "loud" and "louder," yea? suits me!
as for the logic on the ECM circuit, given how fuse 19 works, doesn't that necessarily mean the circuit opens to open the valve? i think to be certain of exactly how it works, you can put the wheels in the air, a multimeter at the valve's solder points, and observe whether a throttle input that you know will open the valves changes voltage; i think it probably does.
Wanted to use the OEM valves instead of buying aftermarket ones. The point is to move them upstream of the muffler, so yea, 'loud' and 'louder'.
And yes the plan is to run everything so I can check voltages and see if the valves open/close on the switch.
Not sure why you think that. With the switch live the ECM will control the valve as per factory. With the switch off the exhaust valves are depowered so permanently open which is what I thought people were trying to achieve?
My next project. How cool would it be to turn the active exhaust on/off with the useless ASL switch??
I sketched out the wiring for each and it looks possible. I'll upload the sketch when I'm home.
Eventually I want to relocate the active exhaust valves further up and install cut outs near the mid pipe.
Just want to know:
- If I disconnect the ASL switch, will my check engine light or 'Cruise not available' come on?
- Is there an internal sensor in the vacuum pump that controls when to stop/start the pump? It looks like there is only a power and ground going to the pump, no ECM signal. The solenoid has a wire that goes to the ECM to tell it when to open and close.
