Hi all,
I seem to be posting a lot, I'm finding myself in need of more sage advice. I realise some of these questions may seem "mundane" to anyone who has done the supercharger removal, just I am stuck...
I am in the process of removing the supercharger to replace the valley hoses. It has been time consuming so far, mainly from reading, looking, trying and failing
I am down to the last few strokes and would appreciate any feedback on the last few steps, which, despite looking at for hours, trying various approaches, I can't seem to conquer.
I promise that I will doscument my experience for the benetit of others when I'm finished....
So, I am at the point where I am trying to get to the rear supercharger securing bolt. The two front are simple but the rear, what a pain in the bum.
Here is what I believe I need to do

1. Remove the EGR valve assembly to allow the throttle body elbow to be able to move (four long bolts securing the elbow to the s/c are removed). - DO I REALLY NEED TO REMOVE THE EGR ***'Y?
2. Release the really short rubber hoses that connect the throttle body intake plenum to the s/c intercoolers - ANY ADVICE HERE ??
3. Once they are removed I can remove the dump valve assembly and get access to the third bolt for the supercharger - IS THAT CORRECT ??

The EGR valve assembly is really tricky to get to and the nuts/bolts on each end of the EGR to exhaust manifold assembly are all immovable, heat cycles must have welded them in and I can't get any leverage to loosen - ANY ADVICE?
Attaching a few photos to make sure I am clear.
Thanks in advance


How the heck do these come off? The retaining clips basically restrict any flex in the rubber hoses.

I can't get these bolts to release - so, wondering if the other end of the EGR flex pipe is the way to go ?

Loosening these nuts - to remove the EGR assembly, will this work ?

 

I've always had to remove everything as it'll be in the way no matter what you try do do. Those bolts NEED to come out. The bottom two MAY help get everything out, but that pipe is pretty dang rigid and won't want to go around anything. I'd say, a longer breaker bar for the top one. Could try to douse the open thread end with Break-Free or similar many, many times to help.

 

Thanks Cee Jay, I appreciate your help. I am basically down to getting the charge air cooler rubber pipes off and the "upper" EGR bolts.

I will figure out the EGR bolts, they are soaking with break free. While I get the "longer breaker bar" idea, the issue is there is no room for the breaker bar to rotate to loosen the bolt. With a long breaker bar, I'm lucky to even be able to get the socket on the nut, turning it one or two degrees is about all i can manage. But, as I said, I will manage it.
With respect to the two charge air cooler rubber hoses, do you recall how you were able to get them off?
The manual has very little on it

How to.... after releasing the spring clips, there is so little maneuverability for the rubber hoses. Any advice?

 

Extensions and floppy-joints to get things to break free, and for the short and fat rubber tubes, just pinch the upper clamps and push them lower on the tubes so they don't hold onto the top parts. They will pull off when you yank on stuff. Easier to reinstall that way also. MAKE SURE THE CLAMPS DON'T ROTATE! They have to 'face' rearwards so you can pinch them open on the reinstall.
Seriously though, it's been several years since I did all this crazy stuff. My old brain may disremember things once in awhile.

 

Well, the worst has happened, one of the bolt heads on the upper connection of the exhaust flex pipe to EGR valve body has rounded off. (was a 10mm, the one visible on the top of the body)
Truly no diea what to do now as the access to that bolt head was a major issue to start with.
I guess I still have the chance to maybe get the two Torx bolts out on the "side" of the EGR assembly. Those are going to get three or four doses of break free before I even try to access them and wrench on them!
Begining to think "why did I start this". Maybe a stiff whiskey and a fresh day will inpsire me?

 

Well, THAT sucks.

 

I believe in updating the forum, given all the support I and others get, posting my learnings may help others.
For the EGR assembly removal, I ended up buying the bolt extractor tool kit of amazon (shown in tis thread). Using that and gently hammering the nut remover, with liquid wrench, I was able to remove the EGR bolts that connect to the flex pipe assembly.
To gain better access to these two bolts, I did remove the windshiled cowl and brace that goes from the top of the strut to the firewall. It made a world of difference in terms of access.
With the EGR assembly loose, the intercooler to throttle body elbow hoses were much easier to remove (I think the correct name is charge air cooler to throttle body elbow hoses).
With those off, I was able to move the throttle body elbow back sufficiently to access the third, rear, supercharger bolt and then remove the supercharger.
It was with that out that I then removed the throttle body elbow, under and through the charge air coolers, the actual EGR solenoid was still in place on the EGR assembly. I guess I answered my own question in the inital post - "you do not need to remove the EGR solenoid from the EGR valve assembly to gain enough space to release the last supercharger bolt" - maybe useful for others to consider going forward, particularly because those Torx bolts that release the EGR solenoid from the body, which face the firewall, are a SOB to access.
Hope this helps others

With this set I was able to remove the 10mm bolt from the EGR to flex pipe assembly