Trust me they look fine but theyre not. Smooth bore and a small amount of wear makes the car knock when you rock the steering wheel back and forth driving slow in a parking lot. I replaced many many on all jaguars every year. The diag is always rocking the car and listening, not a visual thing

 

Good to know.... I'm glad I went ahead and did them then... I have the rear swaybar bushings coming as well so hopefully by the end of next week I will have the car back together, so I can go get an alignment and see how she drives...

 

Agreed with Brutal...the sway bar bushings always "look" fine when they're really not

 

and...… havent had rears ever make noise. Go figure. Now if you didnt like doing the fronts you will hate the rear.

 

Yeah I kinda figured that, but at least the rears I don't have to remove a bunch of stuff just to get at them, since I am already in there doing the CA's. The fronts I had to remove my front spoiler and under pan just to get to them...

 

Well I finally got my bolts for the front uppers... The two front bolts were a fast change out after cutting the old bolts, the two rear bolts were not as easy. I had to unbolt the coolant reservoir to allow room to install bolt on right side and had to remove a few bolts on some modules to gain room on the left side. In all not too bad , but not just simple change like the two front bolts. I still think it was better than having to remove the front shocks and springs... I took the new bolts and cut off the end that has the small bend, so that I would have a flat washer to install on the inside of the engine bay. Still waiting on the rear sway bar bushings to arrive, but I did receive the rear lower CA's yesterday, so will install them next, they should be pretty straight forward swap. As you can see in the pics they appear to be the exact replacement of the originals with the Jaguar name sanded off...

 

So after searching the forum and reading quite a few older threads, here is the list of parts with pricing at this time that I have sourced for my suspension update. I have used all OEM replacements with the exception of the rear sway bar links which are MOOG and are same as stock just a little thicker diameter.. Thanks to the guys before me that helped with sourcing some of these parts... Total for everything was just under $1000.00 for parts, but I saved a ton on labor and time not having to press bushings...

Parts List:
Front Upper CA's - Amazon Online
MCSOE38 $135.00
MCZOE39 $170.00

Front Sway Bar Bushings - Rimmer Bros
C2P13649 $30.00

Front upper CA bolts(if cutting old ones) - SNG Barratt
C2C5694 $8.00 each

Rear Upper CA's - Amazon Online
6W4Z-5500-AA $140.00
6W4Z-5500-AB $140.00

Rear Lower CA's - FCP EURO
C2P16879 $150.00
C2P16878 $150.00

Rear Sway bar Bushings - Rimmer Bros
C2P18877 $25.00

Rear Sway Bar Links - Amazon Online
MOOG K750340 $30.00
MOOG K750339 $30.00

 

Well I finally got around to doing the rear sway bar bushings... Brutal was right, they are a PITA also...Took me a couple hours just to replace these two bushings... Very limited space, and for some reason I had a difficult time getting the bolts restarted when reinstalling... And to add insult, after finishing I looked down to start cleaning up and there is my new bushing. Yep I removed the old bushing on the right side and sat it down and then picked it right back up and reinstalled it... I almost kicked the dog... So I got to redo the right side twice... Rear bushings definitely had some wear...

 

I have done this before!!!! (on another project not related to bushings...) I think I cried

So, after all this, is the "loose feeling" fixed?

 

Well I still need to put the plastic belly pan and wheels back on and take it to alignment shop, but should know how she drives soon. I will update when that happens...

 

dont feel bad, i have done that a couple times over the past couple decades. At least we both noticed

 

Well car is back together and had alignment done this morning. Car is driving great, without any problems as of now. No more Lane Change Shimmy... I will say when driving it to get the alignment I purposely drove across lanes to see if I had fixed the problem, The car felt much more stable and did not jump around like before. Now keep in mind the alignment was obviously way out of wack after I had done all the work, but the looseness was gone. Now after the alignment was done the car feels great and is driving like it should. In the end I do think it was a combination of worn bushings and a car that was out of alignment that was causing my problems.

 

So is it safe to say these numbers are valid for the 07 - 09, 11-14 also?

 

I don't think there were any changes in suspension throughout the X150, other than the changes that are on the XKR-S and XKR-S GT... All these parts should work for all other XK and XKR's any year...

 

Thanks. Kind of what I thought but with the intro of the e-diff in 2010, I didn't know if there were also changes to the suspension bits.

 

Thanks for your help offline Aaron. I changed out the front uppers and just cut the bolts like you. My guess is the OEM that have the tab on the on end are there so one person can install. I can think of no other reason for the tab as a nut and lock washer or nylon nut would do the trick. I Replaced them with 3" stainless steel Marine bolts. My son was able to get the drivers side "rear" bolt in by just undoing the relay box and one of the harness connections. I left the ECU in place. (skinny hands)

On the passenger side, we were able the get an open end wrench on the nut and turn it without having to remove the coolant reservoir. I put the passenger side "rear" bolt in from the wheel well side. The boot covering the strut had enough room and I pried the spring a little with a breaker bar to get the bolt to go in straight.

The wheel knuckle bolt was torqued to 62 ft lbs. I just picked up a 3/8 drive torque wrench for the bushing bolts. They torque @ 44 ft lbs with the car on the ground. I'll torque them in the morning. My bones are too sore right now.

Thanks again for the help.

 

What tool did you use to cut the bolts, an angle grinder or ?? Would a 4-1/2" angle grinder wheel fit?

Thank you for providing suspension part numbers. I have 90K miles on my 2007 XK and the rubber boots on the front upper control arms have split, so I ordered the Motorcraft equivalents from a southern CA Ford dealer.

What about the nuts that accompany the upper control arm bolts - the repair manual says to discard them. Did you order new nuts or reuse the originals?

 

I used a band saw to cut tab off, then a grinder to smooth out the cut, but you could use whatever you have available to you. If you don't have access to power tools, you could use a vise and a hacksaw then file to deburr... I cannot remember if I bought new nuts, good chance I reused...

 

I appreciate your prompt reply. What did you use to cut the original bolts while they were installed in the inside fender?

 

Once nut is removed I pulled bolt thru until it was almost bottomed out of spring, I held bolt with adjustable pliers and used a sawzall - reciprocating saw with a very good blade...