So, possible specifcs? 4.2 NA two stage adaptive, vs 5.0 NA multistage adaptive? Either in R versions? That's four variants. Then there's more.

Below is a partial capture from my '13 JEPC, so some numbers have been superceded. But there's a lot of variants.

 

pretend the 2010 vehicles do not exist

STR, 09 XF Supercharged, 07-09 XKR = Green Sport CATS only

07-09 XK NA = Black Comfort CATS or non-CATS

swapping them between vehicles is a matter of springs and top seats

 

Spring rate is also going to affect handling and comfortably
all three xk/xkr/xkrs (4.2) are going to have different characteristics not to mention the aftermarket springs range also.

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Front springs & thickness - eibach 15.2mm, xkr 14.8mm, xk 14m.

 

Thanks, Steve. I used the original springs for this '07 XK coupe base.

So I installed the front bilsteins, pn 20-114411 ($323 ea), as well as the strut mounts ($63 ea) and a few relevant bolts/nuts. At 80K mi, the previous ones were worn out (about the usual for Bilstein B4 grade on today's roads). Part of doing it now is that these struts have been backordered a lot of places, and I don't want to get a No Longer Avaliable (NLA) and get stuck with paying Jag's absurd parts prices if I wait.

4 hour job, taking my time. I used a lift, but you don't need one for this. Easy garage or driveway job. Compared to others, these struts are very easy to R&R. Tip: For the right front height sensor, I found it easier to unbolt the two top 10mm that held the bracket, rather than try to otherwise disconnect it. You have to disconnect it from the suspension, otherwise it'll get deflected too far when you move things around to get the strut out. Easy for it to get flipped and no longer work until you flip it back.

Yes, use a torque wrench and replace all the nuts the manual asks for -- this is the stuff that keeps us pointing the car where we want to go...(;\) All the torque values are in the maintenance manual, in the procedure.

BTW, nothing involved in replacing a strut requires preloading the suspension, as far as I can see.

Also, if you're willing to de-install active damping on your 4.2, regular dampers are available from Bilstein for around $150 each. Guess I'm a purist.

Seemed to make a difference, but struts take a couple of hundred miles to fully break in.

Rear seem to be widely available, so I'll do those in six months.

Next I'm doing the bushings on the lower front "banana arms". Jaguar arm with bushing: $700. New Jaguar bushing pushed into existing arm: $43. Two bolts to remove, and access to a press, so should be a simple job. Have to preload this one. I'm using stock, since I don't want to stiffen up the suspension, just make it tighter after 80K miles. That should finish the front end work.
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@panthera999 I'd like to better understand the height sensor and what getting it flipped means. Does it mean the middle "knuckle or pivot point" would be down rather than up?

 

That's right. The "elbow" should be up -- if you look at the geometry, the arm needs to deflect up to accurately reflect the movement of the arm its connected to. You might recall my headlight calibration problem. I caused it when I was installing suspension parts and flipped the elbow to down when pulling the rotor/knuckle out and down to get some room. Good news is that removing the bracket, flipping it to the right position, and reinstalling the bracket is an easy job.

 

Be interested in your take on the dampers after they’re broken in. Replaced mine with used off of eBay. Right now they’re fine, but not sure how much life is left in them.

 

Kj, A week later and the Bilstein 20-114411 are breaking in. The improvement is noticable. I was suffering from the "crashing" over railroad tracks and speed bumps you can get with worn struts. It was closely followed by the thunk that sounded like a loose exhaust system. I'm guessing a total of 70-80Kmi should be a reasonable lifetime for these, unless you're doing all highway driving. If all superhighway, they'll probably last much longer.

It appears both were related to bad struts, and likely bad strut mounts. Action over bumps is relatively smooth now, and no followon thunk. Interesting to me that I retorqued the front suspension (including the strut mounts) without an improvement in the thunk, but replacing struts and mounts fixed it.

I'm not surprised: getting 80Kmi out of Jag-labeled Bilstein B4 grade in combined city/highway driving is about right.

Next, new thrust arm bushings*, $35 each, and in six months, rear dampers, for about $650 the pair.

*compared to $1500 for a pair of thrust arms (banana arms) from Jag....

 

If you have a press or reasonable access to one, no problem. I get charged by the hour for the shop near me to press them and the smaller bushes can't be replaced (though they take much less wear). So I got these. Will put them in when the weather starts to thaw

https://www.partsgeek.com/jyl3c99-ja...=Ad+group+%231

$200 I'm ok with it but would go your route otherwise.

 

From my understanding S-Type, xj and xf all use the same style arms I have access to a press im a mechanic and it was only a few bucks more to get the entire arm then to press in the bushes and ball joint living in Australia we really get hit hard with postage .

Funny enough we call them front radius arms here

 

I guess I'm a fan of Lemfoerder, the OE maker of the front radius/thrust/banana/front lower arms. Trying to keep that, without getting r****d by Jag.

The risk to just repalcing the front bushing is wear on the rear of the arm, not replaceable. But it's a press fit with a clamping bolt, not as some think, a balljoint. For this one, both ends have a similar clamping fastening structure, on a more or less perpendicular axis.

AFAIK, Eurospare is a fine manufacturer of the arm. Just my preference.

BTW, I found a pair of Jag arms on a Swedish breaker's inventory. Claimed 6K Km, about $85 each at the current exchange rate.

 

Had access to a press, so changed the front-lower control arm bushings. The details are in the X150 manual. Easy job, needs a good torque wrench for 60Nm and 175 Nm. Cost for bushings and nuts: $110. DIY garage time: $100. Compared to Jag dealer $1400 for parts @ $700 for each arm and who knows how much they'd claim for a 60-90 minute job. Old bushings had cracks, about normal for 80K miles. Carefully examine the orientation of the old ones to the arm, and match the fitting when you press them in. I also marked the position of the cam on the bushing bolt, so I could return close to the proper alignment setting.

I did it on a lift, but this looks like a pretty straightforward jackstands job.

Be watchful -- the control arms (banana arms) can install flipped over without any trouble, meaning they curve outward instead of inward as they should be. Noticed it as I started to fit them. Would give you about 6 inches of steering wheel rotation. Surprised that it was possible. My experience with BMW's was that they only fit one way. So, spare yourself a dope slap when you install them wrong.

Cheers. Running out of things to fix. Rear shocks next, then noise damping material.