Jag Owners,
5 weeks ago, I purchased a 2010 XK Portfolio Coupe 5.0L normally aspirated. At the time it had 59K + miles showing. I have since driven over 600 miles in limited use.
On 3 occasions I felt the car was revving but was not coming out of first gear as I pressed the accelerator (maybe 2nd gear but believe 1st gear). On all 3 occasions
the scenario was basically the same in the sense that I am trying to hurry and get up to speed. For example:
1) accelerating from a freeway on ramp to merge onto the freeway.
2) accelerating from a gas station to get onto a busy street with cars approaching.
3) accelerating from a parallel parking spot to again go onto a very busy street.
In all 3 cases, I backed off the accelerator entirely and began to gradually press on it again with normal gear shifting and speed travel.
When arriving home after the first 2 incidents, I hooked up my OBD II scanner but there were no codes detected.
When purchased, Carfax did indicate where the car was serviced by 2 dealerships since it was originally placed into service. Both were kind enough to
share with me the services that each had performed. Of all the work done, there was no transmission or throttle body work indicated. Just routine stuff.
However, when I first looked at the car, the battery was dead and needed to be jump started. It is a relatively new Interstate battery as of July 2018.
I regularly hook up my volt meter to the battery terminals and read 12.89 volts non-started and 14.6 volts after starting. I have not had any obvious electrical problems
since owning the car. But considering how sensitive these cars are to weakened batteries I am considering the purchase of a new battery. I am not saying
that will solve the stuck in 1st gear problem. I just wanted to throw the battery into the mix just in case someone else might have a similar experience.
Any thoughts anyone??

 

With 59K miles, you ought to be looking at changing transmission fluid even though you're told the nonsense about "lifetime" for the fluid. My car has well over 150,000 miles, and no transmission work except for twice changing tranny fluid. It may help but not always and sometimes makes it worse. But get it diagnosed before you beat it to death.

 

I would try a battery reset.

 

Hard reset as advised by Peter V, also look to get the tranny fluid changed as recommended by tberg.

If you bought it from a dealer then look at getting them to pay for any repairs if the above doesn't remedy.

 

Get this, as with so many other car manufacturers who first said one thing, like dont worry about changing oil for 2 years, and then said, shame on you if you did not change in 6 months if you lived in a big city....
ZF is now saying if you have gone over 8 years, you are fcked!! No joke!
They are even showing the DIYer how to change the trans fluid.
https://www.zf.com/unitedkingdom/en_...hange_oil.html

 

A hard reset will not do anything to the transmission control module (TCM) settings. It will just allow the ECU to relearn. So if the ECU is confused, a hard reset might help. It's certainly harmless to do one.


ZF changed their "sealed for life" recommendations back in 2013. Attached are their recommendations. I would get the fluid changed.
See post 8 for their recommendations:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ooting-191572/

it says the following:
ZF automatic transmissions are filled with specially developed semi-synthetic oils.
At very high operating temperatures, the oil ages faster than under normal conditions. Examples:
 Many trips at high speeds.
 Many trips with a trailer in tow.
 Sporty driving.
Depending on the driving style, ZF therefore recommends a transmission oil change every 80000 to 120000 km, or after 8 years at the latest.

Also, post 2 has a troubleshooting guide which may help but probably not without SDD.

 

If you don't meet the above criteria then when would you have to change the fluid.

 

Am now at 50k miles (so over 80000km) no issues but will be doing the fluid change soon, I have installed this:

https://www.diesel-performance.co.uk...ox-flash-tool/

Did make a noticeable difference to lower gear changes

 

Well... mine is 12 years old on original fluid and with 44,000 miles, guess I'm FCK'D... Not, but I do agree my fluid needs changing now.

 

Does in only do this with the gear selector in DRIVE?

Does it do this in SPORT mode? Does it do it when you try to use the paddle shifters?

What about reverse?

 

Unless you want all 19 of them to be 15 mile radius cars.

 

This is very interesting, seems like it might be of interest to anyone that may struggle with the "ZF lurch"??

 

Thank you Marty.
I find this interesting. Can you expand on your opinions on this? Any lessons learned?

 

Thanks to all for your replies and advice.
GKUBRAK asked a question that I had not addressed before. I have only driven the car in D mode; no Sport, manual, dynamic. I have never used the paddles yet. I just wanted to wait until I had complete confidence in the transmission before getting into the fun stuff. Reverse gear has not been an issue to date.
A notable update today: I drove over to an indy mechanic's shop. Even though my OBD scanner had not detected any codes, his professional scanner reported all kinds of codes. I was overwhelmed as he was showing them to me. It was almost as if every possible code was being reported including engine codes, transmission, ABS codes, door codes, parking brake codes and on and on. I can not remember them all. So he cleared all the codes, detached his scanner, started the car, shutdown the car, restarted the car, reattached his scanner and verified no more codes were reported in 15 categories checked. He then recommended that I drive for 2 weeks and return to his shop for another code scan. This I will do and give another update. I am suspecting that with the battery being dead when the car was purchased, that may have set off all those fault codes. In the meantime, I will do a hard reset as others have suggested.


2010 XK Coupe 5.0L NA

 

It defo does away with the previous lurch, changes are smoother and less noticeable.

I did that mod before gitting their pedalbox+ and power control unit, as to see the difference in stages.

With all three fitted and the pedalbox turned up to 'sport' the take off and m'way driving is gorgeous. For town/urban driving i turn the pedalbox down to 'city' mode as the pop and crackle may annoy others

 

They do not list the N/A versions only the R's.

 

What your describing happened to me when I first started looking into turning my rear camera on. The shop I went to did not have SDD, they had some other scanner/programmer and my car that I had no problems with started giving all kinds of codes. They cleared them and when I got back to where I parked my car, my car wouldn't even start. I had to do a hard reset on the battery terminals and everything went back to normal.

 

Good idea.
Also schedule a transmission drain and fill per ZF recommendations, as you are due. You can also do a full flush which is preferred by most of us on this forum. Depends on how light you want your wallet to be afterwards. Note that our transmissions are used on several vehicles (Hyundai, Audi, BMW, etc,) so any reputable tranny shop will be able to job.
Can you please ask that Indy what tool they used to read and clear codes? If they have SDD then they can likely refresh your TCM IF NEEDED.

please follow up and keep us in the loop.

 

Contact them on their website, to my (albeit limited) knowledge its the same tranny on a 5.0r as a N/A

Also they bespoke flash the tcu to suit the transmission, so have a chat with them on the messenger on their website

 

Thanks Marty, good info.

I've pretty much eliminated the little bit of Lurch that I had by braking a little firmer. Seems to have really smoothed-out the downshifting but this product maybe a good fix for the Lurch in general.

Didn't know if the factory shift points are different for N/A vs. R.