When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I go on the local Porsche Club rallies and one of the fun award categories of the car show afterwards is 'best exhaust tips'. So I thought I'd dress mine up a little with some red paint.
#36 (it wasn't in bad shape) to remove the hairline scratches, then a second pass with Chemical Guys #38, followed by a final pass with a new (to me) product from them called "
. Hopefully, the product will actually last the full one year it's purported to provide the desired paint protection.
But it was about 100 degrees in the garage - even with both sets of doors open - and I was just beat when I was done with the project. Even with an orbital polisher doing all of the hard word, it was still a lot of hand buffing with the microfiber towels in between each pass. Hard work for us older guys in the hot, humid Nebraska summers.
Kurt, hows the shine with that Jet Seal? I use the same compounds as you in the past. I have the Jet Seal in my wish list but they have so damn many products for those of us who don't ceramic coat, I get lost in the minutia.
Try that First there's some really talented repairers out there
+1
Had two bad bends in one wheel from hitting two pot holes that were rain filled. Two places said they couldn’t fix it, found another that said ‘no problem’, and they came through.
Wheel came out great, and I continued to use it for another 10 years.
Cosmetic rim repairs including severe curb damage usually aren't a problem. But rims that have been "remanufactured" including welds to repair holes or cracks are not safe because welds compromise the structural integrity of the metal alloy. Ask any qualified metallurgist. Some welds might never fail, but you never know if that next pothole will hit that welded spot and ... you've reached the end of the road.
Your car, your money, your life, your choice. Is saving a few hundred bucks worth the risk?
About a month ago, I brought the car in and had a paint restoration done. Washed, claybarred, Compound 1, Polish, Compound 2, Polish, Rewash, wax and touch up paint and detail entire car. It was about 15hrs labor, about $400. Well worth it, it removed the scratches and touchups. I've been using Griot's Speed Shine and happy with the results. Tried using their Best of Show hard paste, but don't like it. Took the sticky off the buttons today with hand lotion trick. Worked great..All thats left is to one day replace the headlamps, as they don't match.
About a month ago, I brought the car in and had a paint restoration done. Washed, claybarred, Compound 1, Polish, Compound 2, Polish, Rewash, wax and touch up paint and detail entire car. It was about 15hrs labor, about $400. Well worth it, it removed the scratches and touchups. I've been using Griot's Speed Shine and happy with the results. Tried using their Best of Show hard paste, but don't like it. Took the sticky off the buttons today with hand lotion trick. Worked great..All thats left is to one day replace the headlamps, as they don't match.
$400 for all that? That's a fantastic price. Looks great!
Not today as such, but over the last two weekends I've replace the front and rear discs (rotors for those on the wrong side of the water) and pads.
I used black painted MTEC grooved and drilled discs and EBC red stuff pads. Happy with all the parts, everything fitted just fine with one exception. The EBC rear pads have a different anti-judder spring than factory which prevents the wear indicator from being re-fitted into the pad. I just cable tied it out of the way.
A good few hundred miles on and the black paint is all scrubbed off cleanly, the pads have bedded in, all feels good. The main difference is the lack of brake dust compared to stock pads and of course just how much better the drilled/cross drilled discs look.
P.S finding a 9mm allan/hex key for the front callipers was a challenge... I ended up grinding down a spare 10mm to fit.
Sometimes finding those hex wrenches can in itself be a challenge but ceramic pads are the way to go.....no more dirty wheels after each drive! What tool did you use to rotate the rear pistons back in with? I found that if the anti-rattle springs that come with the brake kits don't fit properly they pop off. It happened to me on a road trip after my last change. I wound up going back to a Jag dealer to purchase new springs to replace both sides. Lesson learned, reuse the old springs.
Sometimes finding those hex wrenches can in itself be a challenge but ceramic pads are the way to go.....no more dirty wheels after each drive! What tool did you use to rotate the rear pistons back in with? I found that if the anti-rattle springs that come with the brake kits don't fit properly they pop off. It happened to me on a road trip after my last change. I wound up going back to a Jag dealer to purchase new springs to replace both sides. Lesson learned, reuse the old springs.
I had bought a brake wind-in tool a couple of years ago for my old XJR but it didn't really fit quite right I remember having to faff around to get the pins to line up well enough. So for the sake of £15 or so I bought a complete kit this time off Amazon. Worked a treat and now I know I've got all the various adaptors needed for virtually any vehicle.
The pads that came off the car had an anti rattle/squeal mechanism attached to the back of the pads which was designed to grip the calliper piston itself, never seen the like before. The new ones had a small black spring which is designed to be compressed and place the pad under constant pressure by the calliper body when it shuts and is bolted in. I did try to see if the old mechanism should be re-used, but the plate, with attached tensioners, was riveted to the back of the pad and couldn't be removed without wrecking it.
I'll keep an eye on the springs, can't see how they could come out, but nothing would surprise me!
About a month ago, I brought the car in and had a paint restoration done. Washed, claybarred, Compound 1, Polish, Compound 2, Polish, Rewash, wax and touch up paint and detail entire car. It was about 15hrs labor, about $400. Well worth it, it removed the scratches and touchups. I've been using Griot's Speed Shine and happy with the results. Tried using their Best of Show hard paste, but don't like it. Took the sticky off the buttons today with hand lotion trick. Worked great..All thats left is to one day replace the headlamps, as they don't match.
08-09-2018, 12:54 PM
