Hi - loving Life and the best car ever - but does it give white hair....

Suddenly sitting in the car talking with a collegue - foot on brake engine ideling in 2 degrees to 0 - and woops.:
warning msgs:
1. Cant apply handbrake
2. DSC fault
3. CATS fault
4. ABS fault

couldnt move the gearstick - switched engine off(might have been stupid..) to see if codes/messages would clear.. as engine/TPMS usually do..

suddenly when pressing the stop/start - nothing happened - no crank.. ABS light stayed on.. cant apply handbrake etc.. but.. could move gear stick now as normally..

tried again.. no change.. no crank
took negative wire off the battery terminal for 90 secs+.. no change..

had it shipped on flatbed
mechanic says
1. tried the +/- cable fhard reset - no changes
2. have tried the hard press of brakepedal and realese of parking barake 5 times.. no changes
3. battery shows 12.6-12.8volt - and always performs.. same results after a full nights charge on workshop charger
4. tried the second remote - all blinks/turns off even the red led as they are supposed to - no changes
5. can easily be pushed in neutral so no sticking in gears or similiar
6. when ignition is on.. still ABS-light - still no crank - hand brake can be released and heard to do so.. all lights, clima, radio, etc works *** normal.. but NO CRANK
7- tester shows extreme high internal ABS pressure in ABS-block/module.. has anyone had these rebuilt(read that rebuild was the choose and best way for the Xj and XF 4.2 engines.. ).. can anyonegive hint/nodd that this seems to be a truthful way to go??

it runs and has doen so brilliantly.. during my 5 year ownership it has only ed me down
1. when battery failed in may 2020
2. 4-5 times when wouldnt crank.. retried and it did and ran liek a dream
3. once a few weeks ago where it would almost not crank.. like coughning.. kept trying and it came.. lik4 on 6 cyl.. and 3-4 secs after all 8 and has been runnign beautifully till now..

hope someone can help out.. as not interessted in just swapping/replacing ang thumbeling in the blind.. and in Dk.. proff jaguar repaimen.. are not to find if car is less than 5-6 years old.. (then they are exported due to our high new car prices.. so 99.9% jags are leasing cars age 36-72 months and then out of the country...

Cheers

Ken

 

You said battery is 12.6-12.8, but every one of your complaints states BAD BATTERY. Just because it has volts does not necessarily mean it has Amps.
Have your battery load tested at about any auto parts store and then when they tell you it's bad you can buy a new one. Then CHARGE it before you install.

 

Thx Cee Jay - really appreciate your fast reply (and others i have seen from you) - but did you see the note about extreme high internal pressure in ABS-module/block?

Mechanics claims - usually i will do it myself - but due to hospitalization in and out currently cant - that they have done a "load test" - not saying they havent - but.. as really appreciating your replies to me.. AND Others - do you mind explain exactly how YOU will do it.. so i can get one to drive me there and check they do it EXACTLY as you say - please :-)

 

kenbg60, FYI: """I just release the EPB before shutting the car off. No problems bleeding. But you do bring up another issue with brake bleeding? The ABS system traps a small amount of brake fluid under highpressure to be used to supply emergency braking. This is completely isolated from the normal brake system. So when you bleed the brakes you are NOT changing the fluid in the ABS. Many people are VERY confused on this point and will insist that you can "force" brake fluid thru the ABS. It does NOT work that way!!"""

some info....Sony2000

 

"7- tester shows extreme high internal ABS pressure in ABS-block/module."
Do you have a code?

 

Why would pressure in the ABS keep the car from starting? If that is a problem I think it's a separate one.
Good point from sony2000. I have given up arguing with people who insist that yes you can force brake fluid thru the ABS. No you can't.
.
.
.

 

I think the concern is based on this from the manual -

"The CJB also controls the engine crank request. If the transmission selector lever is in the park position and the driver presses the brake pedal and simultaneously presses the start/stop switch, the CJB interprets this as an engine crank request.

Before the engine crank request is allowed, the CJB compares a brake pressure signal received from the ABS module. The brake pressure signal is compared to an internally stored threshold value within the CJB. If the signal is greater than the stored threshold value, a crank request signal is sent to the ECM on the high speed CAN bus."

Also -
"check the CAN network between the ABS module and the CJB. The CJB uses the CAN_BrakePressureTMC signal to determine if the brake pedal has been pressed in order to allow an engine crank. The CJB uses a value of 0x03, if the CJB sees a value less than this, it will not enable the Crank Request Output. "


Not saying it's the problem but not sure it's unrelated to the OP's concern.

 

just saying the mechanics say there is a very high pressure.. not saying that is the cause.. i was asking IF that could be a reason.. or if all still points to what Cee Jay says.. still a battery problem.. as i am NOT at the car.. cant due to current help issues.. thx..

 

- as said.. and thanks for the reply :-) i will ask.. just mentioning this given from mechanics.. as i again... "due to current health issues!" is not on/at the car my self for the first time in years.. i will ask monday when they are back.

Thank you :-)

 

A friend's X100 would not start, he burned up $2000 in an effort to start it. The solution was he needed another transmission cable!

 

thx :-) but trannycables and starter are ok.. :-)

 

OK when you get to your car, and hoping you get well soon, you need one other person and a multi meter. The process is simple. Set the voltage on your meter to 20V DC. Hold the test leads to respective positive/negative on the battery. You want 12.6 volts minimum there before moving forward.

Next, watch the meter while someone starts the car. The voltage will drop, as you're putting a load on the battery (obviously). If the voltage remains above 9.5, your battery is ok. (assuming the resting voltage is 12.6 or higher. Anything lower is a fail.

Get better and keep us apprised

 

kenbg60, to prove to yourself it is not a battery problem, borrow your wife's battery and add it to yours for testing the car. Hope you have some sort of charger, big or small, at home.

 

Finally got time of of the hospital to do/ovrlook work/testing done..
1. NOT battery - tried two brand new fully charged from various suppliers(Varta and Bosch)
2. replaced the brakeswitch at the pedal - there were brakelights but.. as a two point/level replaced) no success
tester on and following fault codes came - especially the one about the extreme ABS pressure annoys me.. like it is the ABS module itself and then "sending faults on"
- the one about the Airbag doesnt bother me - :-p

but the rest..

anyone tried these before??

i have been in contact with a well-established Dutch company abotu repairs/control of the ABS unit - sadly i MUST (legal reasons) go through their swedish distrbutor who understands zip.. he has these pics too and started the convo by saying"sorry we do not repair screens" - then oh send unit in when i asked if they had experience with the abs.unit being able to block the car from starting due to extreme pressure internally(10k bar..it shoudl explode with that pressure..) and at the same time giving him these test esults.. then he said he coudl only fix the ABS unit partno below mine and the one above..

Due to my experience in repairing Mercedes/AMG and VW/Audi - my knowledge tells me that when the letters at the end onf the part number changes it is usually the exact same item . but with minor updates - resulting in that these parts can be interchanged - consists of the same components - is this the same with jaguar?

Does anyone know IF it can be the gearstick/shiter incl. box/unit under/attached to the shifter itself that might cause this non-starting (ig.. coudl it be due to the faultcode that it might "think" it is still in gear despite being in neutral and hence will not start??

 

I'm not positive about the 4.2 cars, but the 5 liter ones will tell you if the transmission isn't in gear. I'm sure the older ones are similar.

The rest of it, I have no idea as I don't speak Danish.

 

And those are not complete codes.

 

thx.. gearbox should be the same.. on dashscreen it claism to be in gear.. but tester says no.. hence the q
Codes are as follows(same code in English - but here is the description - sorry)
Enginemanagment:
U0415 - ABS . CAN-signal
P0504 - Brakeswitch A/B - function fault (hence i switched the brakeswitch the two step one above the speeder) - but no difference
ABS:
C0044 - brakepedal switch - signal outside area (second pictures says brakepressure is almost 11000bar - which is not possible)(as above - but no difference)
Parking brake 2:
C1D15 - brakepedal switch - signalplausiblesation wrong - no idea what this means... sorry
U0401 - ECU - CAN information - function fault
Transmissioncontrol:
- U0416 - CAN communication with component - "drivingdynamics-controlunit" - signal invalid
AIRBAG - they have been switched off - so will report faults
Centralelectronics:
B1009 - Ignitions - signal-palusiblisation wrong
B1026 - electronic steering coloumlock - closed - but still wroks..
Bremsepedalkontakt = brakepedlswitch - open - but is brand new and measuring on it.. it is as should be ohmwise and closed
Tryksensor = pressuresensor - 10923,0 bar - which is impossible.. it would explode..

so.. ABS-unit creating fault codes all over(DTC-handbrake not engaging- CATS- etc..) or the gearshifter incl. "box" for electronics??

any other ideas?? all is extremly welcome really really want this cat to be driving before i go back "in the doctors house"..

 

Ah, I didn't see that part. Maybe you should just punt and give your car to me.

 

If my gear shifter, when in Park, it must be all the way in and to the right. If it is 1/16" to the left, it won't crank, and I get a notice in the center or the panel. You may have crud stopping the shifter from hitting home.

 

thx for the offer Cee Jay :-) but car stays with me till the last day - then - unless dying in an accident - it ends in a Museum due to its past ownerships and equipment :-) so still looking for ideas/value to find the... reason to this all of a sudden happening..