Fuel low light = 3.5+ gallons left after recent repair
I was under the impression the low fuel light should only come on when you have 2 gallons left. My fuel gauge was shot when I bought the car nearly two years (PO had not disclosed that gem) and I only had it repaired a few months ago.
I have filled up pretty quickly when the fuel light goes on and have found I always have 3.5+ gallons left. Anything to adjust or notify mechanic about?
Perhaps good idea to keep 3 gallons in there so the pumps don't get strained?
I ran out of gas four times in the past 2 years, and the last two during winter. So I wonder if I strained them hard already.
I have filled up pretty quickly when the fuel light goes on and have found I always have 3.5+ gallons left. Anything to adjust or notify mechanic about?
Perhaps good idea to keep 3 gallons in there so the pumps don't get strained?
I ran out of gas four times in the past 2 years, and the last two during winter. So I wonder if I strained them hard already.
1.5 gallon differance in a fuel tank is not much change in level the sensder sees. Its not a "calibrated" unit per say and depending on how the metal arm got bent in production or transit can change alittle bit for this. That said 2 things come to mind.
1)no biggy dont worry about it
2) running any pump dry is damaging, so is running the tank low since the fuel cools the pump. I tell my kids do not run the tank down to empty all the time. Refill when it hits 1/3 or more. The largest number of pumps i replace have a 1/4 tank of fuel in the tank or less. Which is nice for me since its less to handle and syphon
1)no biggy dont worry about it
2) running any pump dry is damaging, so is running the tank low since the fuel cools the pump. I tell my kids do not run the tank down to empty all the time. Refill when it hits 1/3 or more. The largest number of pumps i replace have a 1/4 tank of fuel in the tank or less. Which is nice for me since its less to handle and syphon
Thank you.
Any suggestions where to get a picture of the power steering module with a 9 pin connector that is supposedly behind the glovebox?
Trying to install a switch for blue wire, connector pin 4 so I can have the heavier steering I prefer without disabling the climate control as I have usually lived with doing the driver side fuse removal method.
Any suggestions where to get a picture of the power steering module with a 9 pin connector that is supposedly behind the glovebox?
Trying to install a switch for blue wire, connector pin 4 so I can have the heavier steering I prefer without disabling the climate control as I have usually lived with doing the driver side fuse removal method.
Thank you.
Any suggestions where to get a picture of the power steering module with a 9 pin connector that is supposedly behind the glovebox?
Trying to install a switch for blue wire, connector pin 4 so I can have the heavier steering I prefer without disabling the climate control as I have usually lived with doing the driver side fuse removal method.
Any suggestions where to get a picture of the power steering module with a 9 pin connector that is supposedly behind the glovebox?
Trying to install a switch for blue wire, connector pin 4 so I can have the heavier steering I prefer without disabling the climate control as I have usually lived with doing the driver side fuse removal method.
If you install a Switch that interrupts the Blue Wire, the Steering will be "Easy" or "High Boost" at all times when the Switch is Open. When Closed, the Steering will change Boost with Speed (Factory Setting).
To enable "Hard Steering" or "Low Boost" at all times, you could install a Switch in series with the White/Blue Wire feeding the Module. With the Switch Open, The Steering would be "Hard" at all times.
Voltage to the Rack Solenoid causes "Low Steering Effort" or "High Boost".
No Voltage to the Rack Solenoid causes "High Steering Effort" or "Low Boost".
Last edited by Paul Pavlik; Apr 23, 2014 at 06:20 PM. Reason: Corrected Boost (Red)
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BrentGardner
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
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