1997 XK8 - VIN: ....014473 - 92k Miles

Hi Guys

I am about to replace all timing parts and have researched and obtained all parts and tools needed for the job - except the crankshaft pulley puller.

All videos, pictures and threads on this site seem to show a puller (homemade or purchased) that have 2 8mm bolts to attach to the pulley with a larger bolt thru the middle to exert the force.

I am looking at the pulley on my car now - and I see no 8mm threaded holes! Only smaller holes that presumably are for attaching the crankshaft locking tool - though I have to say they look a bit small for the amount of force that will be applied.

My question is - do I have some sort of earlier setup that requires a different approach - or am I misunderstanding something? Don't want to order the special puller if mine is different.

Also does anyone know the size of the crankshaft pulley bolt - as some sites suggest this renewed as it has been known to break on re-assembly.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Gareth

 

I recently did this on my 99 xk8 and I got puller from Autozone for no charge. Went online and searched for and found new bolt. I think it was about $15.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/111478787413 This is for OEM bolt

 

I had my crankshaft pulley/damper replaced 3 months ago. Loosening the pulley bolt will be the most daunting task you'd be facing rather than pulling it off the crankshaft, as the bolt will not move no matter how much leverage you can apply . My indy mechanic finally had to resort to calling upon the starter motor to deliver enough torque to crank the bolt loose.

Good luck with your crank pulley bolt removal.

 

The link appears to refer to a bolt for the 4.2 litre V8 rather than a 4.0 ???

 

Hi Dale
Thanks for reply - I have a general puller but several people have recommended using the Jaguar special puller as the damper can be a bugger to remove and people have reported bending and or breaking the bolts on standard pullers - this would particularly seem to be a potential issue if the small bolts used for the crankshaft locking tool are also used for the puller. If they knew it was going to be a 'hard' pull, why didn't they thread for some bigger bolts (rhetorical question!).

With regards to the link you sent, do you, or anyone else reading, know if the 4.0ltr engine damper bolt is the same as the 4.2ltr engine bolt.

Kind regards

Gareth

 

JEPC shows the same part # throughout (NCA1451AA) for the crank pulley bolt. Now superseded by AJ89909

HTH,
Mike

 

I think it's the same but don't know for certain. It's what I put in mine and it matched the one I pulled out. I also had to resort to using starter motor. I even pulled fans and radiator and applied 700 ft. Lb. air impact. It never moved and took several tries with starter motor. Removing pulley was a breeze in comparison. I used bolts that came with puller and was no problem. With fans and radiator removed I had room to tap on puller. I also presoaked everything with WD-40

 

This is the tool I have and at a reasonable price. You can remove or install the damper in 10 minutes instead of half a day. I use a 4 ft pipe over a breaker bar to remove amd install the bolt.

https://shop.ktcautotools.com/collec...ulley-tool-set

 

Thanks for the Bob and advice of others. Have ordered this tool - $119.

I love this site! Have just spent a couple of happy hours reading and looking through threads on this topic - many of them bat-**** crazy - Don't get me wrong, I think it's great to see the extraordinary lengths people will go to to save $50! It's so nice to see such enthusiasm But for my money, we are better off using the correct tools for the job.

I'll let you know how it goes - tool should be here in 4 days.

Many thanks

Gareth

 

Good deal. When you get done with the tool put it up for sale in the classifieds. There is always somebody in need of the tool.

 

Update and Question? I have now almost finished - the correct tool (described above) is great - came off really easily in 5 minutes. All chains and tensioners replaced now trying to re-fit the Damper Pulley. Mine has the split cone setup and this creates the problem.

Tighten initially with standard socket - but now engine turning - BUT pulley is still quite loose - so pulley locking tool useless at this time - since friction is insufficient to lock pulley on the shaft!

Now, I have read that it is possible - even desirable, to lock the engine in place by placing a pry bar/metal strip, on the torque converter 'boss'. To be honest, this frightens the crap out me - the worry is breaking the torque converter boss - which would be disastrous.

Can anyone provide information on how and where to apply this bar (a picture would be great!) - I am assuming it is a safe procedure when done properly, since it is the suggested approach in the JTIS manual. The key issue is "when done properly".

Any help/advice would be much appreciated.

 

PS: I should have said, the engine is in the car - and there is not enough room to get my 1/2" drive impact wrench in to initially tighten the bolt to give enough friction to use the pulley locking tool.

 

I put a pry bar on mine and only damage was to the pry bar. It bent. You should be able with bar to get tight enough for locking tool to work. I finally just pulled fans and radiator to use impact

 

I believe I still had my cam and crank locks still in when I put the damper on. The torque is minimal at first as not to put too much strain on the lock tool. Once the cone engages the damper takes the torque and the locking tool on the damper takes the strain. This is only my thoughts I don't have any other info to back it up.

 

Also I don't think a 1/2" impact will give you ~ 270lbs torque. I use a 4' piece of ppipe over a breaker bar. I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high.

 

Hi Guys - Thanks for replies. I would only have used impact wrench to tighten enough to get sufficient friction to enable use of locking tool. Have pulled the fan assembly buut was trying to avoid removing radiator and condenser assembly and having to drain/refill the a/c system. My question remains - where to place the pry bar to lock the torque converter. Is it on the front or the rear of the TC? There are Inspection plates on both sides? When you did it Dale, where did you put the bar?

Thanks again.

 

Oh, I should also say - all covers are back in place so using cam lock tool is no longer an option - though I think that would be a risky strategy - seemed to work for you Bob?

 

When you look at torque convertor from bottom hole you can turn engine and see boss to put pry bar. You only need to tighten enough to use locking tool

 

Ok - Thanks for that - I'm going to give it a whirl today and see how it goes.