I have a 1997 XK8 with somewhat shabby leather upholstery. It is too badly damaged to refinish. I'd like some advice on three subjects please:

• What is the procedure to remove the front seats so that I can take them to an upholsterer? I'd rather do that than leave the whole car at their mercy. There is a good shop in my area that I have used before, but it is pretty small and tying up their space would be a disadvantage to both of us.
• Is there a preferred vendor of replacement leather, perhaps in kit form? My interior trim code is AGD and I'd like to find out if that is Oatmeal, Doeskin, Ivory or what? Help with this puzzlement would be most appreciated.
• I am aware of a wrecked 1999 XK8 whose seats are available. Would the seats of a 99 fit a 97?

Thanks in advance for the help.


Don Elliott
Gig Harbor, WA

 

Don,

I've moved your question from Jaguar Forums Feedback & Suggestion Center to XK8/XKR forum.

Members here with the same model will be able to help.

Graham

 

Here is a Youtube video showing how to remove the seat!

 

topsonline.com has a replacement set for the seats and console lid at a very reasonable price. They advertise on ebay as well as direct. Installation is fairly easy, simple for an experienced pro.

If the 99 does not have separate headrests you should be able to swap.

 

As above, Topsonline is frequently recommended by Jaguar Forum members for new leather and AGD is the trim code for Oatmeal.


Stu

 

These replies are a major score. Thanks to all for their quick reply.

 

The included video was very helpful in figuring out how to get the seat out of the car, but there was one little thing. It advises to disconnect the battery to avoid accidentally deploying the air bag (what a good idea!). But the Sound System manual (p 5) says that if the battery is disconnected, the radio will no longer work until the special Security Code number is entered. I don't have this code. So the questions are:
1. Do I need to disconnect the battery to remove the seat or is that merely a general precaution?
2. How can I get the Security Code on a 19 year old car?

 

Hi Don,

The following thread has a lot of info. Post #4 tells how to get the radio code from Jaguar. The thread concerns the S-type, but may still be relevant.


Cheers,

Stu

 

Don,

Coded radios are a European feature dating back to the time when theft was a major issue. We have had a very small number of US members (less than ten that I can recall) report having vehicles fitted with coded radios so it is unlikely you will have one.

I've removed/refitted seats several times and have never disconnected the battery for this procedure. I think this is an example of Jaguar being over cautious to recommend battery disconnection every time any work is carried out involving unplugging harness connections.

Graham

 

I wondered about the need to disconnect the battery. My Rolls Royce manual says to disconnect the battery if you are going to jack the car up to change a flat tire. Sounds like similar overkill. I'm on my way now. Thanks for the hand holding.

 

Please post some photos of the new interior when completed.

 

If the car has side airbags it's a good idea to disconnect the battery, just like when removing the steering wheel airbag.

Of course, not necessary in this case.

 

A progress report on replacing the upholstery on my driver's seat:
The driver's seat has now been removed from my 1997 XK8 following the video instructions posted above, but I did not disconnect the battery. Not shown in the video was the need to wrestle a plastic cable tie out of its hole in the seat frame to allow the seat to be freed. The rest of the process was straightforward and corresponds nicely to the video. The four Torx fasteners require a T40 Torx bit and I found using a long T-handle extension on the socket was handy especially for the forward inboard machine screw. I could then sit in the seat and easily reach the fastener. The fasteners appear to have been installed with a dab of blue Locktite which was easily broken loose with a rap from a rubber mallet on the ratchet handle. There are very heavy washers between the seat frame and the body floor. Don't lose these as they are unusual.


The seat cushion, back and frame weigh a total of 55 pounds and are awkward. Since my car is a coupe I did not have the option of dropping the hood so I found it easiest to roll the folded seat back and cushion to allow it to be removed frame-first out the open door. A second pair of hands to manhandle the apparatus onto the bench was much easier than trying to do it single handed. Alas no winning lottery ticket or $100 bills were found under the seat, but it was clear that it had never been removed since the car was built.


Vic at www.topsonline.com was very helpful in placing the order for the replacement leather. He knew instantly that my interior code of AGD = Oatmeal and clued me in to the fact that there are two sizes of inner pleat patterns that were used. Mine is Style 1 that measures 14.5" from the back seam to the U-shape at the front. Style 2 measures ~16". One can buy leather for a single seat cushion, a cushion and a seat back, or a kit for both seats and the arm rest. I ordered both the cushion and the seat back to make sure of the match. It should arrive in a week. The prices are very competitive. I will have my local upholstery shop handle the installation once the leather arrives.


More later.

 

The new leather for the cushion and seat back for my 1997 XK8 from www.topsonline.com has arrived and appears very nice. The color is a very good match for my interior code AGD or Oatmeal and the grain pattern looks just right. These are "covers" which means that it is not a full seat upholstery that wraps all the way around the seat, but are the seating surfaces and sides. It was not necessary (or advised) to take the two halves of the seat back apart, and the upholstered back portion containing the pocket was left in place. The covers attach with hard plastic "inserts" (for lack of a better word) on the edges that are stuffed into the accepting channels just like the original. I puzzled how to do this, but my competent upholsterer in Tacoma, WA "Pyramid Upholstery" knew exactly what to do. In three hours the seat was finished and is ready for installation in the car. It looks fabulous.


But with our dreary weather, taking a photo was disappointing as while the color of the seat is spot-on, the camera could not handle it. Trust me it is lovely. For me total cost for the one seat was ~$600 for the upholstery and the installation.


Thanks to those who offered the tips. They were right on the money.


Now waiting for Spring.

 

Glad everything went well and that you are happy with the results.

 

Thanks for the write-up, Don. I attempted to replace my driver's side seat back with a new cover from Tops-on-Line, and after a day of struggle, decided it was best to deliver it to my local upholsterer. I wouldn't recommend anyone other than an auto upholstery shop do this job. It was a very expensive visit as I also ordered a new bed cover for the pick-up.

 

The seat back is difficult but using a heat gun to soften the plastic rib makes it possible to stuff it in with a wooden wedge. I had to round the back end of the wedge and wear a heavy glove, and still my hand was sore.

 

Thanks RJ. My problem was that the plastic ribbed edging was a lot thicker than the original, and was not going to fit. I like the idea of using a heat gun, though. Tops on line suggested I use the heat gun on the cover to smooth wrinkles after install. I never got to that stage.

 

The original covers on mine kept separating, and adding more clips didn't solve the problem. The heavier rib on the replacement covers solved that problem, but I don't think it's possible to install them without the heat gun.

Using the heat gun to shrink and shape the covers is important. The wrinkles disappear with a little patience, but it's necessary to wear gloves because the leather gets very hot.

And keep that heat gun away from the vinyl side panels, they melt easily.

 

I agree with RJ237 and Johns427. An evaluation of the procedure that was likely required for installing the new leather on the seat back and I made a bee-line for the professionals. They had all the tools and tricks well in hand and were done in 3 hours. For me, it was well worth the cost to avoid the headache.