My XK8 is alittle noisier then some V8s that I've owned. I wish I couuld listen to others to compare. Are they a little noisier than most V8s. I changed to mobil 1 10w 40 with no reduction of noise. After it warms up its much quiter. It runs very smooth. If a rev motor up with hood open over motor its even worse. Lots of valve train racket. Not i tight sound. Is this motor noisier then most?

 

Actually, my car is very quite. There should be no valve train noise.

First question is always 'do you have the metal cam chain tensioners?'.

If not, the noise is a signal that you about to destroy your engine.

Second issue is the Variable Valve Timing units that can make a clicking noise when cold. The noise has been described as a valve lifter 'ticking/clicking' sound. The fix for that is a heaver weight oil. Try a can of 'Restore' added to your new oil change and see if that quiets the noise. If so then a heaver weight oil in in your future.

 

To me what you're describing sounds like the dreaded timing chain tensioner problem. Do you know if the plastic timing chain tensioners that came with your car have been replaced with the newer metal ones? If not, or if you don't know, then you need to stop driving the car right now. Don't start it at all until you've taken off the covers and looked at the tensioners. If you're a little bit handy then this is a DIY job for a couple hundred bucks on a Saturday afternoon. If you keep driving it and the tensioner completely snaps, then you'll need a whole new engine, and on a 1998 that probably means that your car will just end up in the junk yard.

Seriously... I'm trying to scare you. This is that serious. If you're hearing that noise then you are probably on the verge of catastrophic engine failure. The engine in your car is an "interference" engine, meaning that the valves and pistons occupy the same space, just at different times. The timing chain is what makes sure they don't strike each other. If a tensioner breaks then the pistons on one half of the engine slam into the valves, breaking off the valves. The pistons on the other side of the engine don't know anything is wrong at first so they keep pumping away (for a few seconds, at least). The broken valves rattle around in the top of the cylinder, scoring the cylinder walls, punching holes in pistons. damaging the valve seats... It's a friggin disaster. If you're very very lucky when that happens the engine will stop before the it turns into a pile of metal chunks. Then you might be able to get away with spending $1500-$2000 rebuilding one half of the engine. Of course, you won't know if it's rebuildable until you tear into it. You might end up working on if for a day just to discover that it's unrepairable.

I was just looking online and you can buy replacement engines for about $2000. Keep in mind, though, that those engines might also need the tensioner upgrades and stuff. You could be looking at $2500 for the engine, then another $500 to $1000 to have someone install it for you. You can fix the problem now for $200-$300. Or you can wait a month (or a week or an hour) and spend $3500.

 

What Sam Said.

This is what could happen if Ignored:

 

Plus four, I wouldn't even start it till you pull the valve covers off and check the tensioners , It's a lot cheaper than an engine replacement, By the way mine has no noise on start up. either, it's very quiet and smooth.

 

I will shut her down until inspection is done. I also notice a surging going up long hills. Where is the best place to buys these tensioners without paying out ragious prices. Also what is the current value of these cars. The price guides are everywhere on the 1998 Jaguar convertable with 101000 miles in great shape. Some books have the value at $6500.00 and others are at 11 to 12k. I just don't want to get to deep into this car. I do love its timeless design. Thanks

 

Doing the tensioners, and documenting them for the next owner (like you're ever going to sell her) is one of the true investments that will 'hold its value' as the rest of the car depreciates. Think about it that way. Just like the convertible top hydraulics line (for us vert owners) its an obvious value increase upon a resale.

 

Is the car "just a car" that is kind of cool but still at the end of the day just transportation or is this a car you want to take care of and preserve for the long haul?

I think those are the questions you need to ask yourself because these cars can eat money when they want to.

As far as future value...If. and that's a very big IF there is to be future collect-ability on these cars I would guess the "sweet" years would be 03-06 with XKR coupes leading the way.

 

If you have a socket wrench set and some zip ties you can do this yourself. It looks a lot more complicated than it actually is (this coming from a guy who has never actually done it). It's not rocket surgery, it just means getting your hands a little greasy. If you don't want to do it yourself then pay a mechanic to do it for you. I'm not sure how much that would cost, but the part are less than $300 plus your mechanic's time. Hire a guy who doesn't mind you providing the parts. Some places won't let you do that because they want to mark up the parts and charge you for them.

 

PLUS, you don't need a lift or jack stands or anything to replace your tensioners. It's all done from above. I wish you lived in NC so we could do it together and make a video of it. My car was a 2003 which didn't have the tensioner issue. I never got the opportunity to make a video of that.

If anyone is in NC and needs tensioners done send me a PM.

 

Sam
You better buy another one soon just make your videos. If I was You I'd buy one just to keep your production company going. Rev Sam's Videos or the Jag Repair Guy Garage I'm sure other can come up with a catchy name.

 

I hope Rev. Sam's preaching put some fear into you! It really is that serious.

No one seems to have answered your question about where to buy the parts. The best prices seem to be at Ford dealers on-line stores. Tensioners are about $60 each plus $6 for the four bolts that are required. As a '98 AJ26 engine you do not qualify for the great deal on a FelPro gasket set. Check with an on-line Jaguar parts source or Nalley Jaguar which gives a 15% discount to forum members and free shipping.

 

Are the parts that cheap? I guess I was thinking of the Jaguar tensioners. So what you're saying is that he could completely fix this problem for about $150 plus a few hours on a Saturday?

 

I wish I had phrased that differently. I was just rereading this thread and realized that quote is going to be taken out of context and used against me when I run for congress.

 

I did not replace my gaskets and spent about $135 for parts and shipping but that was 2 years ago. Have not had any oil leak problems either.

Tightwad Tom

 

Is this a good or bad tensioner. Hopefully the picture came through.If not how do you post pictures. My tensioner I'm taking out has metal shoe not nylon on top

 

It is a first generation tensioner that needs to be replaced as preventative maintentance. The new ones have a metal body and a nylon contact area. One cannot tell from the picture how well it is functioning. Chances are very good that when you remove it you will see the plastic shell at least beginning to crack.

 

I actually missed the fact that the plastic shoe is missing from your tensioner at the chain contact area. I think you have already discovered the source of your noise.

 

It just didn't look like many others i've looked at in this helpful forem. I am trying the Zip tie method. I've got the zip tie on and cam caps loose exhaust side. I left 0ne bolts very loose on each cap. The came is lifted slightly in rear. Front is held pretty tight at sprocket. I loosened can tensioner but left bolts loose. I'm afraid I still don't have enough looseness to get in out and am afraid i may loose timing if I go futher. Do I take cam caps off and just pick cam up to get slack? Also does someone need to be holding change up while I slip old out and new in? A little nervous at this point being very careful. HELP

 

Stop and take a deep breath.

Tighten the caps back down evenly a quarter turrn at a time.

You should now rotate the engine, using the bolt on the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft so none of the cams are depressing the valves.

Then go back and remove the cam caps again. Keep track of the order and directional arrows on them. They need to be completely removed. With no pressure on the camshaft from the valves, the camshaft will lift up easiliy. As long as the zip tie is tight on the chain and sprocket, you will not lose timing.