I got the Felpro VS50724R and it fit 1998 Jaguar XK8 perfectly. The little round washers go into each screw. I believe this is the Ford LS equvalant. I am glad because after reserching it I found the complete set is only sold through Jaguar for a pretty price.
In cleaning up valve covers I lost track on where the
Studded 10mm bolts go.

Does anybody have a picture of 1998 XK8 bolts for Valve covers. I'm guessing now but would like to know before the altiment put together Friday.

What a great sight by the way....

Thanks

 

What about the spark plug seals?...didn't you car have a rubber link between pairs of spark plug seals ?

 

Also, were the old gaskets red on one side, blue or grey on the other, and was the spark plug seal figure eight or separate pieces? That's the difference between the AJ26 and AJ27 engine. The Felpro set will fit but will not seal properly in the AJ26 because they are much thinner.

 

The studs go in the 1st 3rd and 5th on the top, I believe. just match them with the wiring cover.

 

Visaully the gaskets make sense. Not the figure 8 style though. Are you sure? My old ones was only leaking a little in spark plug holes. hate to wait a week for new gaskets. Where do they not seal?

 

I think you may have a problem at the 2 spark plug bolt holes.

Also, the plastic in the center of the cover may not exert the proper presure on the seals or may not be able to handle the pressure without the correct gasket. I do not know of anyone who has tested it this way. Jag continues to sell the old gasket...there must be a reason otherwise they would have substitued the newer part to reduce inventory...they always do that if they can.

I am also surprised the outer gasket fits so well without being forced into the curvature. Does the rectangular 'patch area' of the gasket line up properly with the middle of the head/timing cover seam?

 

Every thing looks good line up wise. I may give it a whirl to my disspleasure. I ordered a correct set from welsh enterprises for $38.95 and payed $3.95 X 4 spark 8s. Won't be here until tuesday but I want to hear her pur after tensioner change today. Should I or shouldn't I. HMMMM. I guess its not to much to break back down unless someone guarantees failure.

 

I do not think there is any risk in trying it...just go easy on the torque on the two center bolts in each cover. For the long run I think you have done the right thng by ordering the correct parts.

 

Today I started it and its quite. Running a bit ruff. I changed spark plugs to a Boish plat. The old NGKs worn out with 50 gaps but a least ran decent. It acts like a miss somewhere. Checked vacume lines non to be found. I don't like the way the spark boot fit. They dont snap on. I only but one bolt per coil for test. What do you think? Solved one problem to get a dozen more?

 

Remove the covers again and check that the intake and exhaust camshaft flats are aligned (in the same plane). Very rough running could be indicative your secondary chain slipped one sprocket either before, during or after you installed the new tensioners.

 

Thought Zip would keep it. Are flats to be perfectly flat. Its just a small miss. Maybe one cylinder flat. Lots of work but ill do it if I have to.

 

Did you check that the flats were aligned before you put the covers on?

Did you also remove the fuse and crank before you started the engine for the first time?

If you did both of the above a chain slip is less likely to be the problem. If you did not do one or both of the above, then you definitely need to open it up and check.


The flats should be perfectly aligned when the tensioners are filled with oil. Before that, they may be very slightly off, but very close.

 

I did take fuse out but it still hit some maybe gas in injection left. I cheched one tensioner drivers side to see if it was tight but it still has up and down movement. Should that remain tight after its primed? I glanced at flats and they were nearly the same. I should of turned a full rotation and checked closer. I will take a breather and tackle it again. Thanks

 

The tensioner should be quite firm after it is primed, although it may move slightly when pressed.

Definitely check the other side and rotate the engine to make the flats horizontal....it is really hard to eyeball this accurately.

 

spark plug #2 dod look to be misfiring. But I never noticed miss before. Could be coil?

 

No oil leaks so far be the way. So I need a flat edge. Didnt feel much prime. Parts used. Www.partsgeek.com W01331892113. Is it right

 

25 years ago I was a Ford Mechanic. Must be loosing my touch. I certainly look like a fool in this thread. I'm sure all 500 people are being entertained. HA HA. Somehow we are off a tooth. I want to be very careful to back off a tooth. May need another hand.
is the cam in right postion now to undo it now ?
How would you do it at this point???

I want to thank you for you patience and knowledge.

Im so close but so far from getting this done.
I could hold chain up with a bunjy cord and then then undo it move it back one tooth.

 

Picture

 

That number is for the left side. I assume you used the different tensioner for the right side..they are different.

 

If you remove the tensioner your should be able careful peel off the chain and realign it by one tooth. Mark your position now with a permanant marker to keep track of where you are.

Of course, recheck your flats are aligned afterwards. Careful, as you know, more than one tooth off and the probelm goes from rough running to engine damage.